Hose Bib Rebuild

[Superman]

I rebuilt a 911 engine. Do you think I can rebuild a hose bib. Mine is leaking out the shaft. It looks like the valve guts unscrew and come out. Am I on the right track here? Unscrew the valve/guts and take that to the hardware store?

[Scott Douglas]

Sounds about right but a pic of the bib would help tell for sure.

[Tobra]

It has "packing" in there that acts as a seal. You take off the handle, unscrew the little cap that shaft the handle was attached to, pull out the old packing, replace it and put it back together. Tight enough it does not leak, not so tight the handle will not turn. Goes bad and makes it leak when turned on. If it leaks all the time, it is probably not the packing. You may be able to just tighten the packing nut. Seen a few different types. A kit that has a couple of rubber or fiber washers or stuff that looks like waxy string. There is also seal inside the valve, but it seems like those don't seem to go bad, make it so it won't turn off completely.

I need to do mine, going to get some potting soil anyway. Should be some sort of rebuild kit for that, or maybe you could get the stuff in bulk. Hose bib is a pretty standard size.

[Cajundaddy]

Replacing the packing is pretty simple but the rest of the valve may be fatigued over time. I generally just replace with a 3/4 ball valve when the faucet goes bad. They are about $10 and hold up very well.

https://www.amazon.com/LEGEND-FITTING-T-537NL-Lead-Free-Valve/dp/B00KVIWEN2/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4eH93r_d4gIVgqDsCh3fU QCbEAAYASAAEgLQqPD_BwE&hvadid=324723343647&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9031217&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=6436487203734594694&hvtargid=kwd-758885077822&hydadcr=26642_9559596&keywords=3%2F4+hose+ball+valve&qid=1560121058&s=gateway&sr=8-3

[dad911]

I would not bother rebuilding. It's a $8 part.

I also suspect you have to deal with freezing in the winter.

If you can get to the back, cut the pipe and replace it with a frost-free hose bib. Should be under $20.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by Tobra

It has "packing" in there that acts as a seal. You take off the handle, unscrew the little cap that shaft the handle was attached to, pull out the old packing, replace it and put it back together. Tight enough it does not leak, not so tight the handle will not turn. Goes bad and makes it leak when turned on. If it leaks all the time, it is probably not the packing. You may be able to just tighten the packing nut. Seen a few different types. A kit that has a couple of rubber or fiber washers or stuff that looks like waxy string. There is also seal inside the valve, but it seems like those don't seem to go bad, make it so it won't turn off completely

Dr Foot Itch has covered your issue quite thoroughly.
I might add that even on new units if you open the valve hard against the stop it will drip. I open mine wide and then turn it 1/4 turn in.

[Baz]

The typical wear items are both made of rubber.

If it's leaking out of the top it's probably the packing washer.

Dripping out the bottom probably the stem washer.

Both can be replaced without too much work but in some cases replacing the entire hose bib might be the best option.

No hard and fast rule - every situation is different.

I bought a kit of replacement washers and keep it on hand and many times can do the repair without going to the store.

This is an example of a kit:



And a diagram showing the two different washers:

[drcoastline]

Originally Posted by dad911

I would not bother rebuilding. It's a $8 part.

I also suspect you have to deal with freezing in the winter.

If you can get to the back, cut the pipe and replace it with a frost-free hose bib. Should be under $20.

Ding, ding, ding. Winner!

[Tobra]

Generally more trouble to replace than repair though

[cabmandone]

Yep... seal on the end and boom! You're back in business.

[Superman]

Originally Posted by Baz

I have sweated many joints in my day. Do not want to do another if I can help it. In fact, if this thing has to come off, I'm likely to relocate it. I do not need another project. Until I retire in 3.3 years.

This bib is different from mine. On mine, the actuator shaft goes straight into the valve body, parallel to the water flow. Not perpendicular. When I have time, I will turn off the water and remove the packing. Thanks, guys. I should quit bothering you with these questions and go to YouTube.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Superman

I have sweated many joints in my day. Do not want to do another if I can help it. In fact, if this thing has to come off, I'm likely to relocate it. I do not need another project. Until I retire in 3.3 years.

This bib is different from mine. On mine, the actuator shaft goes straight into the valve body, parallel to the water flow. Not perpendicular. When I have time, I will turn off the water and remove the packing. Thanks, guys. I should quit bothering you with these questions and go to YouTube.

You have the "freeze proof" style that closes off the water inside the home. I think those have a seal up front at the nut and then one at the back. Still pretty simple. As for sweating joints... is that what folks your age called it back in the day?

Ask the all knowing Google... it'll lead you to the all knowing youtube that will have you leak free in no time.

FWIW, if you're on good soft "city water" the internals should be fine. If you're on well water you might consider buying a replacement with a shark bite fitting just in case. Well water does wonders to the internals on these faucets.

[Baz]

Superman......the only dumb question....is the one that is never asked.

We are here for ya man.....

[Superman]

Originally Posted by Baz

Superman......We are here for ya man.....

Yes, you guys have been here for me reliably for a good many years. I really like this community. Not quite as active as in the early years, but still dead-reliable.

There are folks here who I respect very much. Very much. Even those with whom I disagree occasionally.

[vash]

I just changed the one at my office. There’s one nerve-racking event. Twisting the old one off. No two nerve racking parts. Shutting off the main that hasn’t been touched in decades and hoping that part doesn’t start to piss from the seal.

It was a $4 part. My boss was on the phone negotiating with building services and trying to determine which form needs to be turn in ( in triplicate).. I was faster.