Might want to install a temporary brace system before the roofers are up there installing a torch-down membrane.

Update:

I learned a lot from YouTube over the past couple of days. The correct term for this is "Soffit". That is what is peeling. The house has a recent new roof (few years old), and the correct drip edges were installed. It looks to me that the roof shingles do have the correct overhang but I don't think the facia boards extend far enough beyond the soffit and so the water drips down the facia and curls around to the soffit. None of the neighboring homes have a flat soffit like this house but instead have exposed 2x4 roof trusses (I don't know the correct term for this).

I'm having a contractor take a look. Fortunately, the damaged area is limited to one area of the house. I have no intention of pretending to be a contractor so I will rely on the experts but I always try and understand for myself so I don't get ripped off by the contractor.

As mentioned by someone here about venting, there is venting about every 15 feet but it is not shown in my photo. If I were to get this house (and that is a big if), I would replace all of the soffits with a modern aluminum vented system or something like that and eliminate the faux stucco.

OK, not flat but tidy just told us it was shingled. That needs a 3:12 pitch minimum and I'd want a solid membrane below at that low of a pitch. For me, 4:12 is my min pitch for shingles otherwise I'm going with 3' rolled roofing.

Where I made my assumption is how this cover butts up to the house. Given the typical framing, it's 2 x 6 rafters covered with ply both sides for a true 6 1/2" plus the roof itself. It seems to be attached about 6" above the window tops. Assuming (again) that the house is on a slab (we don't know that) that puts the roof at the house at around 8 to 8 and a half feet. The house roof won't be much more than 10' to the drip edge.

Still assuming looking at the house next door and what I can see, and the requirement that the top of the iron work needs to be 7' clear off the deck, bricks, concrete, whatever, there's your assumed pitch. It's not enough from where I sit.

So done here until there are sufficient pics to rule out "low pitch." It's just that I've seen this movie over and over in my 50 years in the field as a painter, carpenter, and general contractor. One tends to "assume" a lot given that 50 years of experience.

Show me I'm wrong and we'll look for the next best identification of why water is under that veneer, or whatever that is. But water did not fall off the edge of the shingles, ride down the fascia and turn and go upwards to get under the ceiling finish UNLESS the fascia is even with the finish ceiling. Still, that's asking water to do what it tends not to do unless there's enough surface tension to draw that water back inwards traveling horizontally. And that could be, but then it has to work its way upward to achieve the damage.

I've seen people put drywall up under a cover and then coat it with some textured material. If you look closely, it almost seems that you can see the tan backside of drywall where it is hanging down. Just about any weather will get to that kind of construction.

I've save any further comment until I see everything needed to figure it out.

Zeke, You could be right about drywall. It's possible that someone repaired using drywall and maybe that's why the front porch is the only area that is failing. I won't know anything definitive until I can have someone inspect this.

Below are a couple of photos. The house is on a raised foundation and the roof looks to me to be a 4/12 slope.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1561673128.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1561673148.jpg

I'm going to say I was right all along. Too little slope on the cover.