electrician help! double oven junct box
 

I am redoing our kitchen and moving the double oven (and hopefully installing it properly). the way it was wired before was the wire came out of the sheetrock on one wall then ran behind the cabinets (with a wire spiced in to extend it) and then over to the other wall where it was wire nutted and just laying on the floor under the cabinet.

now I have pulled the wire back up the wall and dropped it down to the location of the double oven BUT my problem is
how do I pull the wire OUT of the drywall
I don't want to just cut a hole and pull it out.
I cant mount a Jbox behind the cabinet as there is no room
I thought about mounting a box behind the refrigerator but the then the fridge wont push all the way back
my next thought was a recessed box behind the fridge and running the power cable out the side of the cabinet that the oven is in.
if I do that then the box wont have a face plate covering the drywall edge.
I DO have a cover for a metal box that will take a 1/2 in 90 degree fitting to run the oven power into it.

I don't think the power chord out of the oven is long enough to mount it in the draw below and then not sure if there is enough room for me to connect it there. again, how do I run the power OUT of the drywall without just leaving a hole, or is that how it is done.

I have no sheet rock in there so I can do what I need to do.

also, not sure if there is room to mount the box in the back of the cabinet AND wire it up before sliding the oven in. this oven is about 24in deep, and so is the cabinet.

this is kind of my idea

https://www.google.com/search?q=where+to+mount+double+oven+junction+box&t bm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=CE0dKsOmyL0ffM%253A%2 52C6-uQpV2pT4tobM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQ3dpgW1WigcS1XtyhO1Wnz85RJGQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjx05 zz-pPjAhUDhOAKHbvZDkoQ9QEwF3oECAQQBA#imgrc=_PcLuqr4NJ ZoIM:&vet=1&spf=1561993141538

Is there some area on the back of the oven that is recessed and you can put a really shallow box in the perfect spot?

Whatever the case just make sure you don’t have splices and wire nuts just hidden in the cabinetry or behind the Sheetrock. Big no-no.

there might be, but how do I get the power cable OUT of the sheet rock, I don't want to just leave a hole like it was before.

the problem with that is I have to have the ovens close to the opening in the cabinet AND get my fat A$$ back there to connect it.

If you look up the specs for your double oven, there is usually a recessed are, near the top, where they recommend mounting the junction box.

However, and having installed quite a few built in ovens, I like to mount the junction box in the cabinet above or below, it makes installation easier.

If there is room to surface mount the box, you can come into the back of the box with the wire in the wall, through the knockout with the proper connector for the existing cable.

Hard to tell from your description, but if you are extending the cable, the junction should be in an accessible box, not buried in a wall.

Pics would help.

I never make the connection behind the oven. I like to put a cord on the oven and an outlet in a cabinet under, above, or beside the oven. If you are going to hard wire it, mount a junction box in a cabinet under, above, or beside the oven, mount a wire on the oven, and make the connection in the junction box.

I don't understand what you are trying to describe.

If the power cord out of the oven isn't long enough, make another one that is.

Just looked at the wire from the panel
It’s 1/0 xhhw but 300 volt.
The house was built in the 70s and I have never seen 300 volt wire.
Is this ok

On a 220 breaker?

You need to stop playing electrician. I say that for your own good and that of your family and your property. That question ^^^ tells us all that you know nothing about what you are doing.

In addition, you need 4 wires — 2 of a color other than white or green, and a white and a green. In 1970 they didn't wire houses that way. It's the code today and it will protect you and your loved ones from the possibility of electrical shock. I know this because over 40 years ago I was playing electrician and almost killed my wife. I'm certified now.

We run the oven wire in the oven cabinets all the time. It’s recessed in the drywall in a metal box with a metal cover just high enough to clear the shelf the oven sits on. This allows the (short) oven wire to reach it while on a portable support the same height as the oven can opening.

Wire it up and push it in.

Xhhw is good cable foot your purpose. 300 is the minimum you want on a 240 Volt circuit.

this is old wiring and I know there is NEW xhhw-2 wire out there, but I don't know the specs of the older stuff or if it was safe, that's why I asked.
all wiring I see is usually 600v, this had 300v on it even though its a 240 circuit.

it has 2 conductors and a ground. the oven wiring already has the white tied to ground.




I am mounting a metal box inside the wall but flush with the sheetrock and I have a 90 degree connector for the front of the box that is mounted behind the fridge and next to the oven cabinet.
going to cut a hole in the side of the cabinet and run the oven wiring over to the box.
this will keep the box out of the heat from the oven

will post a pic later.

I don’t usually jump into things like this and when I do things like this I usually overkill.
Like when I wired my music room for the band. I ran 10g to the room then split it off around the room with 12g but used a 20amp breaker.

I am pulling in new wire after doing more research. #6

Therein lies the problem. Glad you're pulling a new circuit. Did you mention what size the existing breaker is and how far away? Two factors in choosing wire size.

New circuit should have 4 conductors by code. Red/Black/white/ground.

BUT THE GROUND AND THE NEUTRAL WIRES DO CONNECT TO THE GROUND AT THE BOX
so what is the point of the 4th wire ?
and why is it claimed to be safer ?

The ground connects the stove to the house ground.
The white is the neutral for the black/red; without the neutral you don't have 115V for the control boards, lights, displays
The red/black give you 230V for the elements.

the wire/cable I have now has 2 conductors and a braided ground that is (not) shielded.
I am not a fan of using that as a current carrying conductor for the 120v portion of the oven, thus the need for the extra wire.

its on a 50amp breaker now.

yes C4S, even the NEW oven has the white and ground already crimped together.

I do good work, it just me time to get there. :D

thus asking questions