as I understand the Federal Pacific problem, it relates to the Stab-Lok circuit breakers

here is the first hit I found on a search (note the fraud part):

https://www.angieslist.com/articles/are-federal-pacific-circuit-breaker-panels-safe.htm

My house has the same breakers - I'm sure they are original from '62 when the house was built.

Been here 23 years this month and have had no issues.

I do plan to upgrade it to a bigger and better quality component panel --- but not because the homeowner's insurance company says I have to.

Got rid of them when I paid the mortgage off 4 years ago.

Good luck - stay safe!

Aluminum wiring article

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminum_building_wiring

Note, that post 1975, the aluminum is different and poses no risk.

Here in So Cal 1st thing is to call your electrical provider for a location inspection to see if the existing location is acceptable. Called a spotter. Sometimes the existing location is not acceptable. They might want the new panel closer to the power pole or on the other corner of the house.

This can affect the price of the job if the panel needs to be moved.

Most circuit breaker manufactures give breakers a 7 - 10 year life span.
Many older houses have 20 - 60 year old breakers.

Aluminum wire always gets loose on receptacles, causes arcing and fires. No Good.

Not true. The early wire does. But the post 1975 alloy wire has the same mechanical properties as copper.

I agree the panel needs to be replaced - and all of those current breaker values need to be reassessed.

If the landlord is going to address this problem - then you can ignore the suggestion below.

But if you're going to investigate this further, do yourself a favor. Before you start opening up outlet covers and checking wiring, go buy a GFCI tester and plug it into your suspected circuit outlets. It will automatically tell you if there is a short or an open that would likely be causing the 30A breaker to trip(if the breaker itself is not faulty.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1563390888.JPG

1950, which appears to be pre-aluminum. I'm far less concerned about the wire than the general age of the house.

Tell me this though, does that work if the breaker is tripped? I'd assume that you need some power flowing, but maybe not? If those work with the circuit de-energized that I'll sure get one just to add to my collection of tools and testers...

Good, this is a non-issue.

The tester will only work on a live circuit.

BTW - The failure issue with the FPE breakers is they stay closed when the circuit overloads.

We were looking at a house with aluminum wiring a few years ago. Insurance broker could only find one carrier that would write a policy for it. It was a deal breaker for us.

Not sure if you should be doing electrical work ....

Ha! That's funny!

I might have been unclear. I, as the unknowing homeowner, could very easily have put more than 20 amps of load on that breaker without knowing it. What with a microwave on one of the kitchen circuits, and the TV/receiver/subwoofer/cable box on a surge protector on one of the livingroom circuits, then a lamp on another circuit, then the Christmas lights on the outdoor circuit, along with the flagpole lamp, and then maybe the leaf blower.

Seems like a single 20 amp breaker is too SMALL for the total number and distribution of outlets that it's connected to. Seems like it should be 2 or 3 20 amp breakers feeding those same 7 boxes/14 outlets.

Current electric code would not permit that mix of receptacles. Now kitchens get at least two 20 amp circuits, living room would be on a different circuit, as would exterior GFI .

In any event, you don’t add the loads to size a breaker. You size the breaker to the wire, and distribute/add circuits as needed.