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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Maryland
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Light Paint Repair
I am not a big fan of washing and waxing cars - I clay-barred for the first time a few weeks ago on my Series 80 after following links that were posted here.
Still in work, going slow. I took off the front air deflector and the sunroof air deflector and found a few small rust spots...on the rear tail gate as well. Nothing more. I have been doing searches on how to repair the blemishes I have found (pictures below) but every site seems to want to teach me how to repair a rust bucket. So, I know there are some folks here that know how to do this. Ant advice or links? I have a feeling I need to remove the tail gate lock but the others seem straight forward with patience. Thanks in advance. ![]() ![]()
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1996 FJ80. |
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Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
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I've done my share of rust repair and it's imperative to remove ALL rust. The best way to do that in your situation is to spot sandblast. Hopefully you won't blow through. There is technique involved.
Once the rust is gone it's a simple matter of leveling the repair area and painting (which is another subject). Lots of YT vids on using spray can matched finishes and blending. Some will tell you that you can encapsulate the rust with something on the order of POR 15. You can, but you still have to know the entire extent of the rust 'infection'. I won't guarantee the results using POR 15, but if it's only a utilitarian vehicle, let 'er rip. |
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AutoBahned
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how small?
how deep? |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Glorious Pac NW
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Or, if its shallow/minor:
![]() Basically a "propelling pencil" with fiberglass... This will also clean/burnish metal until shiny/bright without removing anything, so also useful for cleaning electrical contacts, if you can get in there....
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'77 S with '78 930 power and a few other things. |
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Is it just me or is anyone else having trouble seeing Paul's pictures?
Spuggy's pencil pic shows up fine.
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Scott '78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold |
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I’ll repost when I get home.
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1996 FJ80. |
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Let's see if this works.
BTW, I am aware Tim H is rebuilding the Millennium Falcon while I am fretting over minimal rust! ![]() ![]()
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1996 FJ80. Last edited by Seahawk; 08-17-2019 at 04:09 PM.. |
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AutoBahned
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ok, pop those bubbles & use the pen or sandpaper to abuse the rust but don't remove it
then treat with a rust convertor then a primer - fill to near the top of the good paint then the top coat; sand (w/2000 grit at the end) lather/rinse/repeat plenty good enough for a Yota - even Fcars have had that done |
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AutoBahned
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last pic looks like marks on top of paint
stick a foam pad on a random orbit sander if you don't own a D/A buffer (and only pros or crazy people need to...) use a polishing or cutting compound of your choice I am no artist and deal with my potential klutziness by using the Meguairs compound in the red bottle (red (maroon) = amateur line) - they call it a rubbing compound but it is more fine than what I done learnt was a rubbing compound in the South eons ago... Last edited by RWebb; 08-17-2019 at 04:36 PM.. |
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Excellent. Thanks!
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1996 FJ80. |
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AutoBahned
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have fun
if interested, you could do up a photo essay on it for the next guy |
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Did you get the memo?
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 32,664
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Agreed that the black marks look like they will polish out.
For the marks by the rear hatch I’d probably try with a rust converting paint like POR15, I believe they have a tintable version now that you could color match. For the bubbles area you could try Webb’s approach or spot sandblast down to bare metal and repaint the panel. Full disclosure, I do basic bodywork but defer the hardcore stuff to the pros. I’m not patient enough to be a good paint and body guy.
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‘07 Mazda RX8-8 Past: 911T, 911SC, Carrera, 951s, 955, 996s, 987s, 986s, 997s, BMW 5x, C36, C63, XJR, S8, Maserati Coupe, GT500, etc |
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Polish out what you can, first. If you lack the materials for this, buy one of the headlight polishing kits and use that. They generally have 2000 grit and 3000 grit paper, along with polish and a polishing wheel.
Remove the rust in the scratches and bubbled areas. I would stay away from POR 15 and other "rust treatment" products. For the rust bubbles, I'd use a Dremel tool and an appropriate bit. You want to get down to smooth, shiny metal. I'd prime it with a good self-etching primer. I'd buy that from an auto body materials supply store. Then touch up the paint, let it dry for a week and then color sand and polish it. If it's a basecoat/clearcoat paint, you'll have an extra step. You can use a spray can with a paint mask, an airbrush, or a small brush to flow the paint into the defect. I use a 000 to 00000 sable brush for touch-ups. Get one from an artist's supply store. You can do this, just take your time and use good materials. |
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