BMW sequence of maintenance questions/advice

[dan79brooklyn]

So I’ve got a lot of maintenance to do on my wife’s 2006 1 series....Brakes, struts and brake lines all around.

This is my first time doing this stuff.
Got all the parts delivered from Europe (thanks to Svandamme for the parts house recommendation).

What order (given that I’m a newbie at this) would you tackle the project?

My inclination is to do the struts first, followed by the brake discs and pads and brake lines last. Reassembling each component before tackling the next project.

But I’m curious what the more experienced members here think is the best way.

I hope I have all the right tools for the job. I do have a spring compressor and a brake bleeding tool. But I don’t have any air tools or electric impact tools.

Hoping to get the job done in a week, working a few hours a day.

Thanks!

[908/930]

Not a pro but If it was me I would spray the threads of the bolts with penetrating oil a day or so before starting the work, and then completely finish one corner at a time, starting from the back. I think that is what you were planning. Should not need any impact tools, unless you ran into some saltwater, but 1/2 drive sockets and a 36" breaker bar will probably be required.

Be careful with the spring when compressed, lots of energy there.

[dan79brooklyn]

Thanks. Should I fully bleed each corner after doing the brake lines or wait until the very end?

Luckily rust isn’t an issue where I live. No snow/salt in the winter. But a little spray of penetrating oil is a good idea too.

[908/930]

You should be ok with bleeding each corner as you finish, then moving on to dismantle the next, just make sure the master cylinder reservoir fluid level stays topped up or you will be starting again. To begin with, try to remove as much of the old brake fluid from the reservoir as you can before adding new fluid, without introducing air into the system.

[dan79brooklyn]

Ok. I got the rear shock absorbers and disc and pads replaced. Everything went smoothly just one trip to the store for a 16mm socket.
One side took most of an afternoon, but the other side I had done in an hour and a half!
Decided to leave the rubber brake lines alone as they still look in good shape.
Will tackle the front end next!

[svandamme]

glad to hear the parts came through !

[asphaltgambler]

As a professional tech - I have always tackled the most involved repairs first as the potential for an additional major issue may arise. If the job included related sub-system components they would be addressed in sensible order of complexity - most to least.

Originally Posted by dan79brooklyn

Ok. I got the rear shock absorbers and disc and pads replaced. Everything went smoothly just one trip to the store for a 16mm socket.
One side took most of an afternoon, but the other side I had done in an hour and a half!
Decided to leave the rubber brake lines alone as they still look in good shape.
Will tackle the front end next!

Ah, yes. The learning curve. It's a wonderful thing.

[WPOZZZ]

I would do the brake line since you're in there.

[dan79brooklyn]

Originally Posted by WPOZZZ

I would do the brake line since you're in there.

The rear brake lines had an inner and outer rubber hose. The inner ones are mounted really high up under the chassis. The idea of laying on my garage floor with brake fluid all over myself and then not being able to get it back together scared me
Plus the lines looked fine.
I’m going to tackle the front struts tomorrow. Wish me luck!

[Jeff Alton]

Go after the safety item first. In your list, that would be brakes first.

A question, why do you think it need brake lines? Or are you just interesting in changing to a braided line?

Cheers

[dan79brooklyn]

I ordered front and rear brake lines because at my biannual safety inspection they recommended that I change them.
I ordered the parts, but I really don’t think they need changing.
Brake discs, pads and shock absorbers definitely need doing. The front shocks are totally gone.

This morning I managed to get the front strut out, the spring compressed and removed the top nut, yay!

It was a struggle getting the new strut back in. I eventually gave up as I couldn’t get the top three bolts to line up.

Went inside for lunch and checked YouTube. Looks like I should mount the top of the strut first.

I’ll try again tomorrow...

[908/930]

Did you say biannual safety inspection? From what I have seen most cars do not put on many miles in a year there. Funny thing is here the only time you get a safety inspection is when the car is being registered in the provence for the first time.

[dan79brooklyn]

Originally Posted by 908/930

Did you say biannual safety inspection? From what I have seen most cars do not put on many miles in a year there. Funny thing is here the only time you get a safety inspection is when the car is being registered in the provence for the first time.

Sorry not twice a year....The inspection is every two years. My wife drives about 10,000 or so kms a year. Her 2006 BMW has close to 120,000kms.

[rfuerst911sc]

What the rubber brake lines look like on the outside means nothing regarding how they look on the inside . Being 13 years old you just don't know how much they have degraded. Maybe as you progress to the front and gain in confidence you will decide to do the lines .

[john70t]

Originally Posted by dan79brooklyn

It was a struggle getting the new strut back in. I eventually gave up as I couldn’t get the top three bolts to line up.

Compress the MacPherson strut spring slightly with the clamps until loose.
Keep them in place until everything is tightened.
Rotate the top bushing mount.
Jack up the A-arm/strut from the ball joint. It should slip into place. Use appropriate washers.
Loosen spring clamps and it will snug into place.
Do a rough toe alignment before driving to the shop.

[908/930]

I question the need for doing an alignment, as you did not change any of the lower parts that would affect that.

[dan79brooklyn]

Thanks for your advice.

I got the left side all back together!
I put the top of the strut in place first, then used a jack to get the bottom in place. Still a ***** to line everything up. The bottom of the new Bilstein is slightly wider than the stock shock absorber so that pinch bolt area was a fight.

Brakes went together ok. Spreading the new pads took some effort.

The opposite side should be much smoother.

[stomachmonkey]

Originally Posted by dan79brooklyn

Thanks for your advice.

I got the left side all back together!
I put the top of the strut in place first, then used a jack to get the bottom in place. Still a ***** to line everything up. The bottom of the new Bilstein is slightly wider than the stock shock absorber so that pinch bolt area was a fight.

Brakes went together ok. Spreading the new pads took some effort.

The opposite side should be much smoother.

Spreading the new pads?

You mean compressing the piston back into the caliper.

Make sure you loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap.

Leave the old inside Pad in place to protect the piston face, use a c clamp, goes in like butter.

Don’t forget to retighten the reservoir cap.

[dan79brooklyn]

Thanks stomachmonkey! That should make it easier on the drivers side.