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Baz Baz is online now
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Your opinion on a tough efficient sawzall blade for metal?

I'm getting ready to do some work on my boat trailer and anticipate some rugged cutting duties for my sawzall.

Looks like this Diablo carbide blade would work pretty good:

Diablo - Steel Demon
6" Carbide Recip Blades for Thick Metal Cutting




What say you?

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Old 10-11-2019, 10:07 AM
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dunno for your appl. but Diablo is good overall & I like my Diablo trim chop saw blade
Old 10-11-2019, 10:10 AM
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What are you cutting? I find zip cut blades the most effective way to cut most metals.
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Old 10-11-2019, 10:17 AM
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Angle grinder with a cut off wheel would be my choice depending on what you're cutting.
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Old 10-11-2019, 11:47 AM
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Just went through a pack of diablo 12 bi metal . They saw through thick metal like anything.
All of the brands seem to cut fine, just some dull quicker I usually buy dewalt, or milwaukee, but the el cheapo's they have at the lumber yard by me also work just fine .
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Old 10-11-2019, 11:53 AM
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Back when I was cutting 911 parts cars (remember those?) up and selling good sheet metal patches, I used Diablo blades a lot. They work great Baz.
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Old 10-11-2019, 12:04 PM
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I think Milwaukee blades are better blade overall. Will you be cutting through wood with nails imbedded in it? If so, I suggest the bimetal blades like Milt suggested
Old 10-11-2019, 01:00 PM
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Cutting on a steel boat trailer? For heavy cutting I like a Skil saw with diamond blade if there is room. Rotating blades tend to be faster and more used friendly than reciprocating for heavy rusted steel. I would supplement with an angle grinder and the sawsall would be my last resort.
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Old 10-11-2019, 01:11 PM
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See where the blade steps wider? That took out the light on my cordless sawzall.... accompanied by smoke and smell of burning wires.......
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:59 PM
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I believe you will be happy with that blade. I cut screws on 500 sq feet of decking with one blade and it’s still good. Worth the money in my opinion.
Old 10-11-2019, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke View Post
10 to 14 teeth PI bimetal blade. The blade you show you won't like. Diablo, Milwaukee and DeWalt all make very good blades.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfredracing View Post
Just went through a pack of diablo 12 bi metal . They saw through thick metal like anything..
This. And if you keep spraying WD40 or any spray lube on them, they just keep cutting and cutting. You want a little smoke, not little sparks.

Buy 10 at a time, and switch when they turn bad.

Last edited by DanielDudley; 10-11-2019 at 03:28 PM..
Old 10-11-2019, 03:26 PM
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Thanks for all the replies so far.

Especially the comments about using an angle or die grinder to make cuts.

I will probably be using both. Not sure yet but wanted to have what I needed before starting. I'm restoring my boat trailer. It's aluminum frame but has some steel components I will need to cut.

But I was also interested in your input for general information for other projects I will be doing.

It's nice to have this forum as a resource. I truly value it and all who participate.

I did order some of the Diablo brand, but in the 9" version. I already have on hand some of the bi-metal ones you mentioned, Milt.

Thank you again!
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad911 View Post


See where the blade steps wider? That took out the light on my cordless sawzall.... accompanied by smoke and smell of burning wires.......
That's odd. I have both a Ryobi and Milwaukee cordless sawzall, so will check this out when the blades arrive. Thanks for the head's up!
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke View Post
A blade that says cast iron and SS is a different animal. Not ideal for mild steel found on trailer rails. I should have said that in my previous post.
OK thanks, Milt.

Do you mind if I ask why the blade in the photo I posted wouldn't be an ideal one to do work on my trailer? Are you saying it wouldn't cut as well? I don't understand.

I'm just curious.

Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2019, 04:36 AM
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the lennox blades hands down.
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Old 10-12-2019, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke View Post
The construction of the blade is designed to rest on a wider cut. The theory states that a minimum of 3 teeth should be 'in the cut'. The materials and cuts suggested on the label of the blade in question say thick cuts and then some materials it will handle. As we know, there are no examples of thin cast iron. So then, the tooth count is too spaced out for hot or cold rolled mild steel in any gauge and fractions up to 1/4 inch. And 8 divided by 4 is 2 so that's iffy at best. The tooth per inch on that blade says 8 where you need 10 to 14. It will hang up and jar the hell out your arm.

I eventually broke an old American made Milwaukee Sawzall (circa 1990) by abusing it and letting it hang up. I fixed the reciprocal action once and it broke again within the month so I tossed it. Now I have the newer Milwaukee but because of my new shoulder I'm afraid to use it much and I'm very careful about blade selection. So I have studied on that a bit.

Also that blade has carbide teeth and they are too brittle for general use. If the number of teeth resting in the cut are less than than three (2.5 at the absolute minimum), they will snap off. You then have wasted your money. On the flip side, if you try and cut cast iron with a bimetal blade with 14 TPI, bring your lunch.
OK thanks for explaining that to me, Milt. There is a science to how tools and equipment work and I'm always interested in the details.

I hope in time your shoulder gets closer to what it should be in terms of strength and endurance.

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Old 10-12-2019, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baz View Post
That's odd. I have both a Ryobi and Milwaukee cordless sawzall, so will check this out when the blades arrive. Thanks for the head's up!
The blade arrived today and the first thing I did was check out any interference with my light - and there was none. Haven't checked the Ryobi yet.

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Old 10-12-2019, 01:06 PM
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It was a ryobi. Home depot swapped it (almost new, and I bought both the blades and saw from them)

I looked at it again today, with the replacement, and it's close.
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Old 10-12-2019, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke View Post
The construction of the blade is designed to rest on a wider cut. The theory states that a minimum of 3 teeth should be 'in the cut'. .........
Great info here, thanks.
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Old 10-12-2019, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad911 View Post
It was a ryobi. Home depot swapped it (almost new, and I bought both the blades and saw from them)

I looked at it again today, with the replacement, and it's close.
Thanks - will check my Ryobi in the morning.

That's one good thing about HD is they have an excellent refund/replacement policy.

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Old 10-12-2019, 03:10 PM
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