Gotta be a Benz Taxi...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1575871289.jpg

My Ford Focus 1.8 diesel estate 2007 needed a replacement ( used) transmission at 230000 miles( about £225 fitted). The turbo finally started to fail at 249000.
In my 1990 Renault Espace 2.0 petrol manual I did 450000 miles in 9 years using it mainly stacked to the roof with goods being delivered and the only non-service items it needed were an exhaust manifold and a clutch pedal (the original bent) and I had to weld up the driver's seat pan where it cracked.
Someone offered to buy it from me( not advertised) so I let it go.

Volvo 240 was probably the best car they ever built.

I have two pretty reliable vehicles that just always seem to run well, and start instantly. My 1996 F150 with the 4.9L inline 6, and auto transmission (the last of the great OBS trucks), and my 2004 Mustang GT with the 4.6L V8, auto convertible (180,000 miles and still runs high 13s in the 1/4 mile)....no issues other than a stripped spark plug.

I currently have 4 that have never left me stranded. 1983 944, over 200K. 1991 FJ80 (3FE, no HG issues) 289K. 2000 Camry V6, 362K. 2002 Accord 4cyl, 248K.

The camry is currently under repair, differential was banging from P to R, and R to D when the gears (broken teeth) were not in sync. Still drove fine.

individual other cars may get to 3-400k miles without problems
most volvo 240's will do that is the BIG difference
as there are far more higher mile volvo 240's out there

I'm a huge fan of GMT800 trucks. Specifically 05-07 classic 2wd.

The worst thing that's happened to my abused 170k mile 2005 crew cab is when the 3-4 clutches went out. I drove it home in 2nd gear, back to work, back to home and then about an hour to a transmission shop where I had it custom built the way I wanted for $1667 out the door. I also added a HUGE 40k cooler and an HD cluster with trans temp gauge.

The next worst thing that will happen, probably never, is if the 5.3 craps out. If that happens (would have to be from lifter failure causing catastrophic damage to cam and bearings) I'll just swap out the long block for a 6.0L and have it tuned. (crossing fingers for lifter failure in the near future)

Now that the dealers only keep full synthetic Dexos in bulk, my truck doesn't use oil between 5,000 mile services anymore.

I've had Brit cars (Triumphs), US cars (Chevys and Ford), Swedish cars (SAAB), Japanese cars (Honda) and German cars (Mercedes, Porsche).

Nothing comes close to the W123/C123 series Mercedes. I had a 300CD turbodiesel that I very stupidly sold many years ago. I still see it around. Slow, but my god what a tank. Back from when Mercedes built cars the best they could be for durability and reliability.

My '87 911 3.2 has been quite reliable as well, the only major repair was a starter motor a few years back, but the 300CD-T never needed anything except maintenance.

https://topgear.fandom.com/wiki/The_Indestructible_Hilux

Top Gear did try to kill the Toyota Hilux pick up

VW TDI with the ALH 1.9 engine and a manual transmission.

Lowest cost of ownership and most reliable vehicle out there. Hands down.

2012 f150 Crewcab 4x4-185k and only a recent water pump
Lexus GS 300-260k and only a radiator and heater core
1999 BMW 328- 200k plus but the regular maintenance included the water pump, radiator, etc. but I beat the crap out of it with a manual
1996 f350 crewcut diesel-200k plus and still going strong somewhere, the idler pulley and belt was all I replaced.

I have a 2008 Civic with manual trans. Not sure I would put it on your list. At 132K miles, the engine block cracked. Fortunately, Honda replaced it under warranty. That's kind of a major thing/fault, though. I've been chasing a CEL for the past couple years, too. Dash keeps telling me to check the gas cap, but I've swapped it out for the one in my wife's car (another Honda), so I know it's not just that. Replaced the charcoal cannister, because I followed the factory manual diagnostics and that's what it instructed me to replace...but the CEL's still lit. So I've got another couple things to try replacing. It doesn't affect the drivability of the car, but it's going to be an issue next time I have to get the car smogged next June. Other than those 2 issues, the car has been fine, though. The only time it's left me stranded was that cracked engine block; leaked out all the coolant but I was able to shut it down before the motor overheated.

That is amazing. A cracked block after 132k? Wow.

Some sort of casting/metallurgy problem. Hairline cracks would develop, thereby allowing all the coolant to leak out. Honda was quietly replacing blocks or whole motors for this problem for their 2006-08 Civics, for up to 10 years/unlimited miles. My car had this issue at 9.5 years.

Yep, a list of very boring cars. How often does someone pull up next to an old Lexus and show a thumbs up, or want a picture. Like any pickup truck or SUV, just another of the same old same old.

Not that there is anything wrong with being a sheep in the herd, and being boring.

I have replaced several canister vent valves causing this code in recent times . Pretty easy to diagnose also . Good luck .

Lexus IS300. I’m on my third one.

I buy them with 90k miles and drive them to 250k, accumulating 35-40k mi per year. Cost $10k to buy and sell for $5k with 250k on the clock. The only non wear item that needs to be replaced is 02 sensors at 180-220k mi. 5 speed manual, inline 6 with RWD and 3300 lbs. can’t think of a better reliable car that doesn’t drive or feel like an appliance.

Rev Jim's NYC yellow taxi(s)...

Older Volvo 240's, Hands down the most reliable.