Because you are a skilled Craftsman not a computer weenie 😀

Good answer. If it required use of hand scrapers, hand planes, saws, etc..., Milt would be all over it.

You're welcome. Just trying to be helpful. And I'm not a computer weenie. Far from it.

I found this Closet Design Guide for New Construction PDF that has some good information and tips and talks about everything from walk-in closets to reach in, kids' closets, pantries, linen, and even garage storage.

RH outswing door with pick proof hinges.

Outlets every 4’ as mentioned.

LED strip lights low around perimeter for low work.

Pull down/out locking extension cord reel.

Air compressor? Run lines around walls with couplings ever 4-6’, etc. Enclose the air compressor.

How tall is the ceiling? Room for a 2/4 post lift or scissor lift?

Wait--I like it better the other way.

No idea on the ceiling height right now. I didn't measure and likely won't be able to for quite a while. I do like the idea of plenty of outlets, a cord reel, and a plumbed in air compressor.

I looked at and priced airplane hanger doors for my garage. https://www.bifold.com/

The pricing was actually very good and a hydraulic "awning" door was my top choice...until I consulted a structural engineer who estimated I needed $20k of steel framing to reinforce the garage to handle the loads placed on it by the top hinged swing out door. Bear in mind that I required no structural framing in the center of the building that would interfere with my lift. I'm sure the structure could have been braced for much less $ had this not been a requirement.

The door schematics from the manufacturer were loaded with warnings to consult an engineer to insure that your building was built/designed to withstand the loads placed on it by the door. I'm glad I did.

We don't know what system or mechanism you were using or the structural integrity of your building, but $20K in structural work seems excessive for the typical door opening. This system pictured simply needs a solid header to bolt the top of the frame and solid jack studs to bolt the side frames. As you can see the load is carried by the door frame it's self.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1576687172.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1576687344.jpg

Wow, loaded up with what I assume is a bunch of engineered stone too.

I bet that seals up tight too

I like the way the windows are finished across the bottom

I was looking at Schweiss products. This is a 16' x 8' opening, and a 100% masonry single story structure built approximately 1910-1920. The quote from Schweiss was loaded with warnings about insuring the building was up to structural loads from the door (including wind loads when opening/closing). The $20k figure was a seat of pants estimate from the structural engineer I hired to assess my building, so I take it with a grain of salt, but bottom line is a professional structural engineer advised that structural steel was required to properly support this door. Because my design requirement was to leave the ceiling open for lift clearance, the engineer assumed that the additional framing would have to run along the inside walls of the building. If my building was taller, I'm sure it would have been a simple matter of additional framing members across the ceiling to brace the "box". As it stands, my 20x20 box is effectively free standing and is not cross braced by the full hip roof framing, which basically sits like a "cover" on top of the box. YMMV, but for me there was going to be additional expense in making the hanger door work, and the total cost would be at least 3x-4x what the horizontal door I eventually chose cost.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg

I have one of these glide top sheds for shovels, lawn equipment, ladders, kids bikes etc. Not sure if you have room for it but definitely is nice for keeping junk out of the garage.

I also have a maxjax mx 6 your garage would accommodate that perfectly with one of the posts in the work area. It is not too intrusive and relatively easily un bolted if wanted

Unfortunately, things fell through when negotiating allowances. This is not going to be our place. I would have gone ahead, but it bothered the missus and if we lived there, the knowledge of the issues would always be like a splinter in her brain. I want to keep a happy wife, so we'll move on to something different.

...which is pretty light weight.

Garage recepticles at 4' aff.
I put mine at 8' apart, but all are quads.
Also lots of wall/ceiling mounted shelves down the left side.

I see you've moved on, but for future reference.

Also, didn't see "help with kitchen" or bath thread.
Straight to the important stuff, ehh?

Yeah, I have/had a kitchen thread too. But yes, I also was getting right to the important stuff.

We've got another house slightly on our radar (it's really much larger than we need), but IT HAS A 4 CAR GARAGE. If that works out...

https://janeaustenrunsmylife.files.w...ebfc17dc0b.gif

You found a 4 car car garage in the city?

No, it's back out in the 'burbs near the grandkids.