Woodworking Question
 

So, as I don't have a lot else to do on evenings and weekends, I decided to build a new kitchen table as there are 5 of us and we have a small kitchen. I bought the wood on Saturday and did most of the cutting/drilling/assembly on Sunday. I left finishing the top for last. I want to round the corners with about a 2" radius when viewed from the top. I have an old router that was my dad's that I haven't used much. What is the standard way to go about something like this? I don't think that I can do it free-hand and get good results.

Build a jig and router it.

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Chris - As suggested above - a router jig and pattern following bit is the standard approach. If you have a jig saw - you can cut the square corner down close to the desired radius and then use the router and jig with much less effort than the router/jig alone.

This is interesting. Years ago when we were just starting our family, we ordered a butcher block table as a dining room table. I thought I had described the corners I wanted it to have. Instead, I think the 'builder' tried to pawn off a table he'd already made on us that wasn't 'butcher block' in the way the example we'd looked at was.
We didn't accept 'his' table and got it across to him that we wanted and expected it to be like the example. We got square corners with 1/2" radii on all the edges. The sq corners give you more surface for plates etc.
Just trying to help as this story came to mind when reading your desire for 2" radii on the corners.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585698279.JPG

I suppose it’s how you comprehend the question. When I look at Scott’s table I think of a square or rectangular shape with a 2” radius on corners - I’d mark 2” away from each corner and connect those two points with the radius. his is much less, maybe 3/4”

If it was cut to a circle and then the radius was done on the edge it would have to be a full 2” thick.

A drawing to go with words is a wise choice so everyone is on same page.

Here's an example of how a 2" radius will look.
The magnifying glass is a little bit bigger than 4" in diameter.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1585699465.JPG

It may seem insignificant but the 'feel' of the table is a lot bigger with the smaller radius.
I think the table we were offered at first actually had closer to 6" radii than 2" now that I compare the picture to what was offered.

Yes. The jig. Make sure you cut so as not to splinter the end out. Take small cuts. Use a sharp bit. Maybe even precut and router to final? That could be best.

Funny. I too have five and am making a dining table right now.

I already made one suggestion above. If all you really want is 1" radius or less - draw the radius and go to town with a belt sander. It might take a few more minutes - but a belt sander can remove quite a bit of wood fast with a coarse grit. No jig nor pattern router bit needed.

Yep, ^ this. Expect I would cut out small bits of corners with a jig saw first to save me time with the belt sander. Hold the belt sander on its side and sand to the line. Simple and don't over think it. It may take a bit getting use to having to sand with the sander sideways. Not hard. Give it a try.

Dicey with a belt sander unless you have a lot of time handling one. But if you do, find a good plane at least 8" to 10" (smoothing or No. 4) long and set it so it barely cuts. You'll find your high and low spots on the first stroke.

Most planes are decent enough to get a good edge on the iron. Tons of sharpening info on the friendly net.

Zeke, Chris wants a radius on the 4 table corners. He's not after a roundover on the 4 table top edges.

This is where I'm at. Still waiting for the radius jig to arrive:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587259502.jpg

^This- If you use a router, experiment first with the router wider than the final cut.
Way wider on the first run, to avoid damage from unpleasant surprises.

From this, you will gather how the wood reacts to the cut.
Does it cut nicely? Does it chip and splinter?

As you come in closer to the jig line, you will have a strategy as to how to tackle the final cut.

Sometimes I will "knaw out" wood in a reverse cut direction so the router doesn't grab and shred the wood to get me into position for the final cut.

If in doubt- go reverse.

If it is a really testy wood, (curly woods, or 1/4 sawn) I might (edit- WILL) reverse cut the whole thing

Point being- use "practice cuts" on a larger diameter to see how the router/ wood reacts before you get to the critical final cut radius.

Second point being- reverse cuts (with router) are safe

Third point- the second point trumps the first point. Just go in from reverse direction. Don't give router blade a chance to dig in and 'catch' an edge and tear it.

ps- the pine in that pic looks flat sawn and relatively safe- but this will help anywhere

I'm going to use the radius jig to create a jig that I will actually use on the table. I need something that I can fit around some of the supporting structure on the table.

My thoughts too.

I did some side tables for the couch. The corners are like driving a 911. Slow in then really hit the apex then give it gas coming out.

So in belt sander speak start trimming it down three or four inches from the corner with the belt sander, then a tighter corner then gradually going out to thee straight edge, again over three or four inches. Adds a bit of style to it.

My table has sharp 90 degree edges and corners. Those are gonna hurt!

The table looks like pine, a very soft wood. You're overthinking this. Grab a can from the garage or the kitchen with the R you want, trace it on the corner with a pencil, rough out the cuts with a handsaw or a sabre saw, hit it with a belt or palm sander to clean it up, dress the edge top and bottom to match the factory roundover with a rasp and a sanding block. Done and done.

I did this butcher block using a paint can for my template. It's not perfect, but it doesn't have to be. No one would ever scrutinize it closely enough to ever notice.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587310246.jpg

Yes. The table is pine. I had two requirements from the wife for the table:

1) It had to be light enough for her to move by herself.
2) It had to be inexpensive so that when the kids inevitably damage it we're not out a lot of money.