I was going to run conduit from the main panel to the sub panel. The wall the main panel is on is the same wall inside the garage that the sub panel will be on.

Make sure you don't run NM cables (Romex) inside the conduit. Not legal here and most states (maybe all?) that I know of. This should include that extension cord from that link. I am not sure if it is code to have Romex inside the garage, exposed? That means, it has to be covered behind drywall. If code allows, you may be in luck to save yourself a bit of work. Still, I like conduit for better protection.

Chris, that cable is for portable power cables - like for an RV or generator hookup - not for power runs between panels.

That's why I asked. It was the only 6/4 cable I could find at Menard's.

I couldn't deal with the Menards sight - so I used HomeDepot. Is there a reason you want to use conduit? It's much easier to just use romex. This is 6 awg 3 conductor and ground - to use between the panels. It's not cheap - as copper is not cheap. Seems 50' will be plenty for your to use between the panels.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-6-3-Stranded-Romex-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-63950032/204765156

Not sure if anyone gave a suggestion about the 240 V outlet/plug. This is the standard most used:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Industrial-Grade-Heavy-Duty-Self-Grounding-Single-Outlet-White-5461-W/301207446?MERCH=REC-_-rv_search_plp_rr-_-309534130;309522474;309534540;312906038;311166334; 312562587;312562585;312562576;312303422;311709813; 311709809;-_-301207446-_-N

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586133238.jpg

Of course - you'll need a mating plug.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Pass-and-Seymour-20-Amp-250-Volt-Plug-PS5466XCCV4/202664478

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586133365.jpg

So don't buy the Romex and buy 25 feet each of red, black, white, and uninsulated 6 gauge?

Legion - A couple of things about 240. The gauge size for for the hots (Red & Black), 6 gauge. The Neutral is 2 gauges higher, so the white wire is 8 gauge. The ground wire is 4 gauges higher which is green or uninsulated, 10 gauge.

A "Romex" is a self contained insulated cable with the proper mix sizes and colors.

Most of the time, the wires are all black, but colored tape is added at each end to identify the different wires. If you have access to colored wires, it is better!!!

I definitely would use a conduit of some type. the plastic "sealtite" is fine, I use it all the time indoor or outdoor. For a garage, I usually set it up like it was outdoor since there is a much higher chance of water/liquids.

I've done standard 15 amp electrical sockets, so I am familiar with running Romex for that. look 171's post said not to run Romex in conduit. I assume it is a code issue? If it is okay to run Romex in conduit, I'd much prefer to do that.

And yes, I had the same thoughts about liquids in the garage and decided to run it that way for exactly that reason. That, and I have small children.

Yes, you can run a combined "cable" in conduit. It is not as easy to find the combined cables.

That said, the cheapest way to go for 25 feet of #6 is to buy about 120-130 feet of #6 black and, color code with tape (green, red and white, no color for the black). And run it through 1" Sealtite.

You can strip the jacket from the romex. I've done it for short lengths.

Do you really need a subpanel? You can run multiple circuits through an oversized conduit if you have enough room for the breakers in the main panel. Then you can do all this with a roll of black thhn#12 and some white and green tape (as R-B pointed out)

I'd like a subpanel in the garage to make reconfiguring for future large tools easier.

If you have the Romex already, then strip off the Jacket like Dad911 suggested instead of spending more money on wires.

Yep, no Romex in conduit out here. I have done it with short length of 2-3' from the attic to a HVAC disconnect or isolator on the roof. Any longer then that, it wouldn't pass inspection due to heat issue associated with Romex inside conduits.

How much more room do you have in that main panel? Like Dad911 say, run circuits off there. Are they all full size breakers? Is there enough room for tandem or "slim" breakers.

I have no room in the main panel. I just had my electric hot water heater replaced with a natural gas unit, so that freed up two slots taken by the old 30 amp breaker for the hot water heater.

Got it.

Normally, stranded wire is used in conduit pulls since the solid wire used in romex doesn't turn/bend in conduit L's (or other bends) easily.

It should be a straight 20' run from the panel to the wall, and then up 90º for a 3' run to the subpanel. So I'll have two 90º turns, one from the main panel to the main run, and one from main run to the subpanel. I was going to use an elbow like this below the subpanel to make the run easier to manage:

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...MygGegUIARCnBA

Does anyone know how high off the garage floor is code for a subpanel?

240.24 Location in or on Premises.
(A) Accessibility. Overcurrent devices shall be readily accessible and shall be installed so that the center of the grip of the operating handle of the switch or circuit breaker, when in its highest position, is not more than 2.0 m (6 ft 7 in.) above the floor or working platform, unless one of the following applies:

Installed the subpanel and ran the conduit today:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587169131.jpg

Not sure how to complete the run to the main panel:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587169225.jpg

Run conduit right into the main panel. Use clamps https://www.orbitelectric.com/flex-connectors-screw-in-type.htmlto make sure conduit is connect to the panel tightly. Fish wires through. I normally try to run wires first so I don't have to pull the wig wad of wired through but not always possible. I suggest flex instead of rigid conduit to eliminate having to purchase a conduit bender.