What to finish old tools with after rust removal?
 

After reading Leaky’s thread on rust, I wanted to follow up on what to do to prevent it from coming back.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/1057941-how-would-you-treat-surface-rust.html

I have some old tools from my grandfather I’d like to clean up. I’m going to try the Evapo Rust but what can I do to prevent it from coming back? The tools were made by Miller Falls in Mass and were originally chromed or something similar. They are at least 60 years old.

Pix of typical tool.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587874529.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587874529.jpg

maybe just hit it with a brass brush and give it a good soak in Kroil?

After soaking something in EvapoRust, I just rinse with water, maybe dry it with a hair dryer or heat gun, & coat it with light machine oil, Boeshield T-9, or something similar.

I use basic paste wax on all kinds of things. Table saw top is a great example. Nice finish.

I would just give it a scrub down with a scotchbrite in the kitchen sink full of warm warm soapy water.. A wipe with an oily rag and it should be fine for the next 60 years.

Sorry for going off topic here.

Your ever try Trewax? Its tough stuff and much better and long wearing then the typical paste wax. Akemi Solid wax out of Germany is one of the best I have used. We use it on stone to bring out the lower luster shine. Hard durable stuff. Hard to find though.

After the rust is gone, I suggest giving it a light polish with a fine compound. Treat it with oil or Kroil like Rusnak suggested. I have a small bottle some old guy gave me. I can't seem to find it locally around here.

https://secure28.securewebsession.com/kanolabs.com/orders/order_pentrial.shtml

Kroil is great stuff. I buy it by the gallon and put it in the type of can that you can air up with a compressor and turn it into an aerosol sprayer.

You use it to loosen bolts but don't use it as an oil do you?

I have. I noticed how it gives a nice finish to rusty nuts and bolts on the disc after I've had to change a bearing or something. So I use it on the really old cool stuff like the branding iron that my gramps made, the old trailer pins, etc. It turns them dark and stops the part from rusting, like an old cast iron pan. I tried wax on an old wrench, but the oil seems to penetrate better. You should wear gloves until the part is no longer oily feeling.

This guy was looking at long term protection for spoons, but should be applicable.

It is a long thread, he put a lot of work into it.

The top three were:

Hoarnady's One shot

WD 40 Specialist - the corrosion inhibitor version

And perhaps Frog Lube

https://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/forum/alaska-shooting-forums/alaska-shooting/139238-results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation

There's a rust inhibitor I used after I water blasted parts that would prevent rust even with the part sitting outdoors for something like a year. If I can find the product name and number I'll post it here.

I use Boeshield to preserve bare steel. I shoot it into the crack between the center and the rim on my chrome wheels too, to keep moisture out and prevent rust. It's a kind of wax in a solvent that evaporates. If it's cold you have to warm it up before you spray it to soften the wax. Good stuff.



https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587903547.jpg

Polymerized tung oil is a real wipe on finish that can be used on tools. I used to strip old house hardware and dip it. I have used all of the above mentioned in this thread, plus Gibbs.

It is more important that you put something on it than it is what you use. I had a friend who would add some regular motor oil to WD40, which he bought by the gallon and put in a hand sprayer. He called it WD80. The more of a residue it leaves, the better in most cases.

If you mix Boeshield with WD-40, do you get WDFifteen?

One other thought, couldn't you clear them with 3M or Rustoleum clearcoat?

Yep. I always have a can of this on hand. The first can I bought years ago was something like $10. It's my "go to" for light lubrication and film for protection. A can lasts for years.

Good ideas.

Is there a DIY chemical coating that can be applied at home. Maybe something from Eastwood?

I don’t really use them, but want them to look nice. Do you think they were chrome plated 60+ years ago or some other finish?

They probably looked something like this.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587927139.jpg

Thanks, Gents, this thread cost me about $100 :cool:

I had never heard of some of the recommendations and the local folks looked at me like a cat watching TV when I asked for Boeshield. They knew about Kroil but did not know where to get it.

So I ordered via the innerwebs.

Thanks, again, Folks, this thread came in very handy!