Cursed '65 Mustang - loose pressed in nut
 

I acquired a '67 Caddy from a widow, and that thing fought me ever step of the way.
Kinda like the previous owner is having fun at my expense.
Apparently the spirit likes hanging out in the garage and has a taste for the early Mustang as well.
I never had any issues with that car until I pulled the Caddy next to it.
But anyway...
The latest is a loose nut.
Not sure what you call it, but it is pressed into the frame.
Trying to remove a bracket for the power steering slave cylinder so I can install an aftermarket one to provide clearance for headers.
One bolt just kept spinning.
I was finally able to remove it by prying on the bracket and spinning the bolt.
Here is what I am left with; one nut is loose and needs to be tight in the frame:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587934786.jpg

I was thinking maybe welding a few tacks around it?
May as well do both just in case?

Can you get a bolt into the threads a wee bit?

Maybe grind the neck of the bolt down to where you could get MIG wire past the exposed smaller shank?

I have a welder but I'm no welder so this looks a bit scary.

You want a nutsert, or riv-nut. Just cut the top off the one there and replace it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/nut-inserts

What he said... but you can get the same thing from NAPA auto parts along with the tool that installs them.

Thanks guys.
That looks like what is in there.
Since the existing is loose, will another of the same size install tight enough to thread a bolt into?

I believe the issue is that that they break where they are tacked onto the other side. I think those are like big pop rivets that are threaded on the inside

Captured nut?
"Captive, or self-retained, nuts are multiple-threaded fasteners used on many thin materials. Captive, or self-retained, nuts are multiple-threaded fasteners used on many thin materials. They are good in blind locations, and can generally be attached without damaging finishes"

If that's what is in there, you should be able to hit it with the install tool and tighten it again. As long as you don't wallow out the hole too much you should be able to install another one. The key is getting the right one for the thickness of metal you're working with. If that was my car, I'd clean it up, pop a couple tack welds on and call it a day. But first I'd cuss at if for a few hours, drink three or four beers, then go at it with the welder just to make things interesting!

What size thread is it?

Brotha from anotha mutha!!
Cussing... Check
3-4 beers... Check
Broke out the welder but decided to ask PP first.
So proud of myself.
Will hit napa tomorrow and see what they have.

Not sure thread size but it's a 9/16" head.

That's a 3/8 bolt. Not sure you're going to be able to hand install one that big. Biggest thread size I've done by hand has been 1/4 I think.

I could be wrong ( wouldn't be the first time :D ) but sometimes that style of press nut has a knurled or serrated exterior to help stop it from spinning when pressed . Those serrations bite into the surrounding metal . I only bring that up in case you get the old one out and find that the hole is no longer perfectly round . If it were me I'd clean the area good , put a smear of JB Weld on the exterior of the new press nut and install . This assumes you can install a 3/8 press nut by hand . Good luck .

This.

Hopefully the hole is not hogged out so much that a new one won't bite.

Looks like a PITA, sorry.

Is the back side enclosed ? Just wondering if you can through bolt but I assume the factory used the rivnut for a reason .

Mig it.

Clean it, pack the outside with JBWeld, one small tap with the MIG to keep from spinning, bolt parts together and press upwards with jack to let dry.

That will hold in place aligned to later MIG/grind for strength.

Might be a problem getting it lined up to whatever is attached to. Depending.
BTDT.

Pic of the '65 ?

I believe the technical term is "waller" ;)

So, curious. Did you fix this right, or are you another PO?

I'm a DAPO!!
I was able to reseat the original by using a nut and bolt.
Took all I had with a 2' cheater bar but it tightened back up.
Then cleaned it and it's partner up with a wire wheel, and hit with a couple tacks with the mig.
Then primed and painted.
Ain't going anywhere now!