Is this multimeter good to check for parasitic draw?
 

It can measure AC colts, DC volts and resistance.
Can I use it? If so, what setting should I put it at and what readings should I expect to see?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588369876.jpg

No. You need one with more functions.

Here is a decent Harbor Freight unit. Not great. Decent. $23

Click on the multimeter in the link and get the larger pic. See the dial at 6:00-7:30 on the clock. That's what you need to test amp draw.

https://www.harborfreight.com/11-function-digital-multimeter-with-audible-continuity-61593.html

Plug the red cord into the "fused" port. Break a battery cable and bridge with the MM cable pointers. That will complete the circuit and tell you how much is being sucked out of the battery. 50 one thousandths of an amp (Ma - milla-amps) or less is what you are looking for when cooties are remedied.

The basic settings settings "sense" (not an electrician) the volts and resistance. The amp draw settings literally make the MM part of the circuit when you move the red probe into the fused plug-in port.

Thanks, that’s what I thought, need one that measures amps, right?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588371195.jpg

Yes. The big A with the straight line and the little dashes under it to get technical. :)

But you have to move the red probe to the fused port.

Perhaps the 200 m spot on the dial. Others will know better.

Yes, Amps. Most meters have to be in the circuit, in series. That means disconnecting the wire you want to check, so the current flows through the meter. Quite a few people blow them up by using the wrong scale, or trying to measure wrong.

I strongly suggest getting the clamp-on kind. Need to make sure it can read DC current, some are AC only.

This one will measure DC current by just clamping over the wire.

https://www.harborfreight.com/cm610a-600a-t-rms-acdc-clamp-meter-64015.html

Are you *****ting me? Just clamping on the wire? Like the positive battery terminal wire?

Sigh.

Yep - Just clamp around one wire and it measures the current flowing through the wire.

One issue with clamp-on meters is they sometimes don't have sufficient range/sensitivity to measure small currents. You can compensate for this by clamping around a wire looped several times (need a long wire) and dividing the total current by the number of passes of wire though the clamp.

Yup, bought an earlier version of the HF one, years ago.....now the fluke gathers dust.

Need to be careful purchasing, many are AC only.

Thanks. I can focus on that caveat.

How sweet that would be.

You know you are talking to laymen here. So is this scenario e.g., for the fancy radio or security system that may be sucking too much juice?

Here's a video on measuring and finding parasitic draw. Yes, alarm systems and fancy radios do draw juice. So if the car is parked any length of time, say a week or more, I'd suggest investing in a smart charger...one that feeds in at 2 1/2 amps or so and will shut off when battery fully charged.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwrel&NR=1&v=KF1gijj03_0

Induction baby!!

You might as well be saying fission. :D

Watching pwd's vid now.

Edit: Watched that vid last week. He's good.

is this better?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588376761.gif

If you are checking an older car you can also use a simple test light. Disconnect the battery terminal and connect one end of the test light to the post and the other end to the cable. If the light comes on there is a draw. Just remove fuses until the light goes out and that is the circuit that has the draw on it. HF also has a cheap Multimeter that will work I have had this one for years and it works great got it on sale for like $3
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html?_br_psugg_q=multimeter

Yes. Thank you for the inverted delta. That always makes things crystal clear.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588378363.jpg

you can always put them in integral form, you know...

You're killin' me, Smalls.

Ya gotta face reality

Agree. :D

and that puts fields in yer face...

Sorry about that Bob. Here's a link that probably explains this better than I ever can:

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/transformer/current-transformer.html

And then - there was light! Good old Maxwell. (EE from GaTech!)

do you drive a ramblin' wreck?

Thank you!

I'm heading to the freight once I get my shoes on to get that clampy thing and then I'm going to practice what you are telling me.

Check minimum measurable current range when looking at meters. Ideally find something that can measure mA with the clamp.

Be careful when measuring current draw (amps) if you forget about the meter and switch on something bigger (headlamps, fuel pump, fans) you may fry the meter!

I'm a Helluva an engineer!

I have seen the results of an inexperienced apprentices and inexpensive meters!

Better quality meters are fully fused. You might be able to blow the fuse but typically you won't blow up the meter.

I know it is overkill for most here, but I would seriously look for used Fluke meters online or at a pawn shop.

I have still have my old Fluke 23 that I use as my home meter. Great, tough little meter for troubleshooting. Water resistant, not proof!

Found a little video with this meter. Note, both the milliamp and 10 amp are fully fused.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_vXiKd1Zb2E" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Porsche owners all have deep pockets, right? Just order this and you're set.

https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/dmm/combo-kits/ac-dc-deluxe-automotive-digital-multimeter-combo-kit-1000v-885akit.htm

You need to get two. One for in the car, and one for in the garage. Maybe three, just in case your BIL/neighbor wants to borrow one.

That is why I always recommend the clamp-on meters. Can't fry it.

Many people don't understand how to connect an ammeter properly.

(Older apprentice here. And will be until I know it all. Which will be never.
I learn from my mistakes, and must be genius by now because I've made them twice at least.)

While you are at the store buy the tube fuses as well.

To the meter AFAIK:
1) The volt setting resists everything outside trying to enter.
It looks at voltage PRESSURE from afar.
There are tall walls of high impedance/resistance/ohms built into that circuit. It is almost always safe to use it on 12V.

2). The amp setting lets actual current flow through the meter.
The fuse is the weak link, as intended.
The circuitry can handle only a small amount. The setting is important. Start with the highest and work down.

As mentioned above, the inductive clamp-on probe may not be the most accurate but is a safe tool to use.

3). The ohm setting actually creates a small current within the meter, to see how well it flows and returns to the meter.
It measures the resistance.
It cannot ever be used with live circuits because it's circuits are very sensitive and shyt will instantly pop inside.
All external power sources must be disconnected first.

I bought it. Still in plastic but I like the fact that it should be much faster for a draw test on the main battery cables.

Multimeter should be here soon.
So, I can take a fuse out and gap that with the multimeter to see what the amp draw is through that circuit, right?

Yes

Is that showing a 4.3 milliamp draw?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588742653.jpg