Mid 2000's Honda underneath parts rust issues

[Bob Kontak]

I have a 2005 Odyssey. Changed front rotors today. I had to sledge them off. I mean another dude with a oxy/acet torch on the face with me under the lift with a long handled sledge slamming on the rotor where the caliper was removed.

It was absurd. To be fair, I am in the rust belt.

I know there are tough things that need to be dealt with on older cars but that year range of Hondas have been the worst I have experienced. I have more stories but this one is the topper.

Is this a "one off" or have any of you had similar experiences?

[stevej37]

My 98 Honda is 22 years old, has no rust, but I'm very careful about salt.
Our roads are white for 3 months of the year here.

[fastfredracing]

My new daily beater is a 2003 accord. It has one rust spot on the rear wheel opening, but the rest of the car, especially underneath, you could eat off of . 165000 Pa miles . Weird.
I recently had a 2007 accord in, that the floorboards were done, gone. I told her that I would not be able to inspect it when it comes time .
I think that I have fought off those rotors before myself. I believe it is the way the hat of the rotor fits over the hub flange. they get really stuck together .

[john70t]

I've been thinking about the same thing. No experience with any of these products but there is ACF-50, Corrosion-X (wax based i think), Waxoyl, LPS-3, Collinite Insulator Wax, Hydrate 80 rust killer, Evapo-Rust,

Also My interesting three year experiment with 303 Aerospace Protectant

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by fastfredracing

I think that I have fought off those rotors before myself. I believe it is the way the hat of the rotor fits over the hub flange. they get really stuck together .

I bet you are right. The way they are machined and fit together must create a happy space for oxidation. The bulk of the cooties were on the face of the hub on the outside diameter.

On top of one ball joint, two tie rod ends, rotors, calipers and pads the starter went out after one test drive. I suspect it was on the edge and the sledging put it down.

Check this rust out for a 2005. Body is not bad though. Couple of bubble spots on the tailgate and rear fenders.

[javadog]

The problem is where you live. I've bought a few cars from north of the M/D line, never will again.

[NYPorsche]

A later of car - but our 2012 odyssey had the metal transmission cooler lines rot out this winter and the wheel hub defeated me, my torch, and my air hammer due to being fused in the knuckle. Brake jobs have been a breeze, but that is because I pull the rotors on each car at the very first oil change and hit the hub face with some neveresieze.

Body is fine but at 100k miles the evidence of regular salt exposure underneath is frightning.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by javadog

The problem is where you live. I've bought a few cars from north of the M/D line, never will again.

No doubt.

However, I sense Honda had a passage of several years where the salt generated more corrosion than normal.

6mm machine bolts normally come undone but I lost one on the battery tray removal.

Below is a 2004 S60 with same mileage. Not as ragged. Splitting hairs, I know. Perhaps Volvo plated steel more effectively. Bottom of this car has no corrosion.

[LEAKYSEALS951]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Damn! Corrosion so bad, it looks almost looks like there was an engine fire.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by LEAKYSEALS951

Damn! Corrosion so bad, it looks almost looks like there was an engine fire.

Yep.

Drives sweet and no check engine lights. Function over beauty.

Just talking here......

One of the other reasons I posted was a pal has a 2004 CRV. He completely rebuilt the suspension, drivetrain (other than trans/motor) and brakes.

He had to buy one of those induction coil bolt removers, slide hammers, impact guns and more to get the parts apart. Massive frozen fasteners. I wonder if part of it is what Freddy says, it's the way parts are made. I know that the big nut on drive shafts and harmonic balancer bolts often freeze on older Hondas where the faces meet. Is it a machining thing or metullurgy exacerbated by the salt?

I know it's a corrosion thing but I don't have these problems on (example) mid 2000's Buicks like I have seen with Honda.

[Otter74]

I had a 2004 Accord from 2011 until March, when I replaced it with a JSW TDI. It spent 2004-2011 with my grandfather in Florida, and the rest of the time with me in Chicago. I gave it to my girlfriend's cousin, so it's still here. Engine compartment looked about like that Volvo's, no rust on the body (I washed it regularly in the winter.) I did a full brake service a few years ago and everything was a piece of cake to take off. Fasteners underneath look a bit ugly, but the car was always easy to service.

[stevej37]

My 98 with 120K miles last week.

[javadog]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

I know it's a corrosion thing but I don't have these problems on (example) mid 2000's Buicks like I have seen with Honda.

All of the metals and plating finishes have different electrochemical potentials. When putting two things together, it's optimum to use metals or finishes that are close to each other on the scale, as opposed to further apart. A link to a chart:

Galvanic Series (electrochemical series)

I'm sure Honda engineers know this, maybe they are over-ruled by the bean counters.

Maybe they've never been to Ohio.

[devodave]

Had a 2003 Vibe GT that was shod with snow tires on their own steel wheels every winter. When it came time to change them myself, struggled to pull the wheels off of the hubs, after the lug nuts were removed. Banging on the tire or rim with a big rubber mallet wouldn't budge them. This was even after a liberal application of anti-seize compound on the hub and wheel faces before they were mounted. Ended up having to drive around out on the road for about a mile or so with the lugnuts loosened to break them free. The aluminum wheels didn't do that. It does appear that perhaps the machined surfaces allowed just enough moisture in to reek that havoc.

[RWebb]

while you're in there...

hose down every fastener with Kroil - repeat each time you put it on a lift/stands

you'll be happier in years to come or the next owner will be

[john70t]

Maybe for long term rust protection.
As a penetrant the $15 Kroil came in last place in this test:
(it is under specific and limited conditions though)

Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!

[fastfredracing]

V Tech yo!.

[stevej37]

Originally Posted by fastfredracing

V Tech yo!.

Is there anything else in the pic (unusual) that you noticed?....look closely.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by stevej37

Is there anything else in the pic (unusual) that you noticed?....look closely.

Purple electronic rust resistor?

[stevej37]

Purple is correct...controller for this...additional 75 hp Zex nitrous. Yo-V-Tech!