Is there a one size fits most 2 post lift? Lift range 911 - F250 Crew Cab

[cabmandone]

I know there are a lot of 2 post threads here but... I'm looking at buying one that will work for anything from my 911 to my F250 CC, SRW, Short Bed w/gas engine. I've been looking at the Challenger LE10 (made in China) or Challenger CL10V3 which is made in Tennessee but is about $1400 more than the LE10. Both are what Challenger calls "Versymmetric" meaning it can act as both an Asymmetric and Symmetric lift in one. I don't know if this is necessary though to lift all the different vehicles I own.
I'm hoping a garage guy like Fred or anyone else using a lift for a variety of vehicles might chime in. Cost really isn't a big issue. I want a good solid lift that will do all the vehicles I own.

Here's the "garage" Ford F250 CC, LB, SRW, Ford Taurus X, Ford Fusion, Hyundai Veloster, Rav4, 911.

Ceiling Height is 12' 3" which is 3" more than the Challenger lists as "minimum" height.

Here's the lift I'm considering.
CL10V3 Versymmetric Car Lift | Challenger Lifts

[rfuerst911sc]

That lift I think will work great for you . I bought a used Ammco 7K two post for my man cave , it is a rebranded Challenger . I have had my Boxster /Volvo XC90/Toyota minivan/Mazda 3 on it with no issues . Unfortunately my diesel dually pickup weighs more than the lift is rated for .

Make sure your floor can handle the weight that the lift is rated for .

[speeder]

I did not see the load limit on that page but obviously you would need something very HD to lift an F-250 CC, maybe 10k lbs. just to have some safety margin?

For the range of cars mentioned, you also need something w a very low arm height when lowered. THat's the challenge of a lot of lifts for lifting sports cars. If one lift can meet both specs, I'd say that you're in business!

[Arizona_928]

I would say 14,000 lbs to be safe on the HD lift

[VincentVega]

The truck is ~7500. I've had one on my 10k bendpak. It works but you know its there.

[speeder]

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

I would say 14,000 lbs to be safe on the HD lift

Originally Posted by VincentVega

The truck is ~7500. I've had one on my 10k bendpak. It works but you know its there.

You guys are right, just because it can lift it doesn't mean it should. Hoist accidents are horrific.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

The truck is ~7500. I've had one on my 10k bendpak. It works but you know its there.

I have a 10k certified Challenger.

I have had a 9k Chevy 3500 with a dump and snow plow on it.

You definitely know it's there.

You need two-three extra grand to get comfortable. Like a solid $4-5k 10k Bendpak, used.

[rfuerst911sc]

And with really heavy vehicles I would recommend some lift jack stands as backup . While they may not fully support the load by themselves they really help steady the vehicle . And will buy you a second or two to escape in case of an issue .

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

I have a 10k certified Challenger.

I have had a 9k Chevy 3500 with a dump and snow plow on it.

You definitely know it's there.

You need two-three extra grand to get comfortable. Like a solid $4-5k 10k Bendpak, used.

When it comes to my safety, money really isn't an issue. I was going 10,000 lb rating to give me some wiggle room but it might not be enough even though the truck only weighs about 7500 as VV pointed out.

My truck and most of my cars will only see the lift 2 times a year for oil changes and tire rotations. There will be the occasional brake job but the lift is ultimately for convenience when doing oil changes and tire rotations. I might look at a 12k but I do have the ceiling height restriction of 12' unless I have someone insulate the uninsulated part of my 42x70 barn.. then I can go up to 15'.

BTW, floor is 6" thick with mesh reinforcement. The barn is 6" thick with 1/2 bar at 3' squares with fiber reinforced concrete. I went thick on the shop floor and barn floor knowing I'd have my skid loaders and mini (up to 18k) excavators on it. Floor in either building should take whatever I put in.

Just looked on Challenger's website and the CL12 is out for my shop. 14' minimum ceiling height. Could go in the barn but things will get spendy pretty quickly on this project if I go that route.

OOF! The CL12-LC runs $6995 but fits shops with 12' ceilings. Still costs less than insulating and adding heat to the unfinished part of my bar though.

[DerkPerk]

Check out the baseplate lifts from Greg Smith Equipment. They are a bit more than the the regular 2 post but keep the required height down. https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-BP12000


I’ve had my F250 CC diesel on my buddies 10k Atlas many times and it handles it with no problem. Just be sure to give the vehicle and good rock when it’s a couple inches off the ground to make sure it’s sturdy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cabmandone]

Found this from a Bendpak rep on garage journal. Thread was from 2010 but thought it was interesting. They were discussing Mohawk lifts when he chimed in.
" All ALI/ETL certified lift products feature columns that are capable of safely supporting a minimum three times their rated load capacity."

Would seem to me that the CL10 would be ample if what they said it true.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70488

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by DerkPerk

Check out the baseplate lifts from Greg Smith Equipment. They are a bit more than the the regular 2 post but keep the required height down. https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-BP12000


I’ve had my F250 CC diesel on my buddies 10k Atlas many times and it handles it with no problem. Just be sure to give the vehicle and good rock when it’s a couple inches off the ground to make sure it’s sturdy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trying to avoid floor plate if at all possible.

[fastfredracing]

I get pretty nervous lifting those long trucks on my 9k pound lift . There is so much overhang, on each end, that it seems like you could pull the columns right out of the concrete with one false move
It puts them up there alright, but as soon as they are up in the air, I put lift stands under the rear and front bumpers .

[pavulon]

If the wheels don't have to come off and money isn't an issue, I'd do this.

[billybek]

If money was not an issue, I would get one of these!

https://mohawklifts.com/automotive-lifts/2-post-lifts/model-lc-12/

[tdw28210]

Originally Posted by billybek

If money was not an issue, I would get one of these!

https://mohawklifts.com/automotive-lifts/2-post-lifts/model-lc-12/

Always prowling for a good used Mohawk. Missed one last year in GA.

[speeder]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Found this from a Bendpak rep on garage journal. Thread was from 2010 but thought it was interesting. They were discussing Mohawk lifts when he chimed in.
" All ALI/ETL certified lift products feature columns that are capable of safely supporting a minimum three times their rated load capacity."

Would seem to me that the CL10 would be ample if what they said it true.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70488

That’s great for the columns but what about the arms? I’m no expert on lifts but pretty good at amateur safety engineering. I was at my friend's shop last weekend when he was about to put brakes on another friend's late model Range Rover. It was the top-of-the-line, supercharged one. My buddy only works on cars, (no trucks), and his lifts are in the 7-8k lbs. range. I convinced him to only lift it 3’ off the ground and do the brakes from there. A RR overhead on anything but a massive lift gives me the willies, to put it mildly.

If I was looking for a good lift, I’d be looking used for a high end, late model unit. There is at least one guy in town here who flips them and removes/installs them, a great business and sort of like what you do w heavy equipment.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by billybek

If money was not an issue, I would get one of these!

https://mohawklifts.com/automotive-lifts/2-post-lifts/model-lc-12/

Read that thread I posted. They're a solid lift but there are some down sides based on that thread and at least two people saying "it doesn't lift even"

Again, 9 year old thread so maybe they've gotten better but... "The hydraulic synchronization does not work as well as I would like, pretty much every time I have to use the manual override to level the car. The manual override is a more of a sledgehammer when trying to make minor adjustments. It would be nice instead of just on or off if it allowed minor adjustments."

BTW, money really isn't an issue. Safety comes first. I don't ever want my wife to come out in my shop and find me smooshed under a car so going bigger isn't a real problem as long as it fits in the shop.

[908/930]

Just make sure that your floor can take the stress of a lift, that will be more of a weak point than the lift itself, stands on each end are a great idea.

I really don't think a certified lift fails that often, from what I have seen in pic's it looks more like it's operator error, once up the lift uses mechanical locks so no load on hydraulics, well the ones I looked at anyways.

I poured my garage floor quite thick and with 5/8 rebar expecting to go with a two post lift and ended up with a 9k four post with a trolley jack, it is mostly used for car storage anyways, and we are in an earthquake zone.

[911_Dude]

If you feel like spending the bucks Mohawk lifts are absolute beasts compared to the competition. The thickness of the metal used in construction is easy to see. I like that when Im under my truck. I got an A7 asym and have been very happy with it.