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Is there a pin in the hole of the phenolic bushing or is it threaded for a set screw?
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-Wayne |
Enjoying this but concerned that this thread will give me bad dreams. You, sir, appear to be fearless! Keep at it!
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Using cheap hardware store electrical terminals is not the “proper” way to build a new harness.
That car deserves OE spec double crimp brass terminals like every OE manufacturer uses. I’m digging this build, thanks for posting, Wayne. |
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The goal is indeed to get the car running very soon without this turning into a 3-year total restoration. It's tempting to look this thing and say, "we need to rewire the entire car", and in reality, it could probably use that. But that would take a full 3-4 months and for this thing, I would rather only replace the stuff that definitely needs replacing and keep as much other stuff as original as possible... -Wayne |
This is a sample of what I'm dealing with (this is what it looks like currently):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605643172.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605643172.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605643172.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605643172.jpg The car supposedly didn't even *have* a fuse block in it when it was built (nothing fused). So, one of the previous owners put one in and rewired things a bit. It's a good idea indeed, but not exactly done in a super-logical way. I've had to go through each component on the car, test it, check the wiring, and figure out how everything is all wired up. I'm working on an "electrical manual" that details each part, the part number, its individual wiring inside, etc: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605643469.JPG Also, a spreadsheet tracking the current (no pun intended) status of each component: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605643540.JPG -Wayne |
Also taking copious notes. I found that printing out pieces of paper, writing on them, and then rescanning them into this master electric document works well.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644173.JPG The only person who will find this info useful will be subsequent owners of the car, and the person who will be restoring AB/2! -Wayne |
I have to replace a section of the wire harness. It looks like it got wet or sat near a fuel tank that was leaking fumes, or something. The wire is all brittle, black, and the insulation cracks when you bend it. Only in this area though, so I'm going to order some proper matching wire (not easy to find), and then patch in the new harness (26 connectors - that will be fun).
Here's the typical wire, I wanted to make it work, but it's just obvious that it's a bad idea: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644466.jpg The insulation on this stuff just crackles and breaks if you try to bend it even slightly: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644565.jpg I came across this component, which I've seen on and off throughout the years. I thought this was a terminal block, but there appears to be resistance across the terminals, so I'm not 100% sure. I think I've seen them before on cars I was parting out - it's not completely foreign to me, but I never took a very close look or investigated. I don't have an electrical diagram for this car, so it's anyone's guess where each wire goes exactly, but I think it's for the electric motor to raise the headlamps. I'm still confused as to what this thing is, I have not seen one of these before: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644596.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644613.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644613.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644613.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644613.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605644613.jpg -Wayne |
Looks like a common ground that has a sacrificial zinc housing, but that is just a swag on my part.
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Just ordered a whole bunch of new wire (and some new connectors) from Rhode Island wire (https://www.riwire.com/) - they seem to have the proper stuff in stock. The plan is to splice the new wire into the old harness under the footwell (where the wiring seems to be okay). With some careful soldering and some time spent on my stomach doing this (and breathing flux fumes), this should work well. I thought about using some type of bullet connector like they use on the 911s, but that would be less original than what's in there now. Again, trying to keep as much original stuff as humanly possible, while actually making it reliable (well, relatively).
-Wayne |
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-Wayne |
From the other thread:
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-Wayne |
Since it is, or looks like, it's potted, maybe it's a common 'hot' spot. Does the center hole go all the way thru like for a mounting bolt?
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I can appreciate that approach. Quote:
It’s interesting that half the fuse box has OE style terminals, it appears several cooks have been in that kitchen. Could the potted square device be a voltage reducer for the gauges? Where do those wires go ? |
Looks to me like a bridge rectifier. I used them in the past to covert between circuits/components that were AC but had DC available in the rest of the circuit. Or vice versa.
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Crusty ballast resistor?
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Wayne, that sure looks like a simple one weekend project.
I hate doing electrical work. I can't imagine that mess with no manual of current flow charts. It is sort of watching an archeological dig and trying to figure out what went where. I guess you will have a full restoration manual with your notes and this thread. |
It is a bridge rectifier. I think 4 diodes in series with taps at the corners?
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Of course it would be something odd and unusual. This car continues to surprise even with the most simplest of things. What in heaven’s name would one of these be used for? I guess I need to keep digging.
More thoughts are welcome! Wayne |
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