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Quote:

Originally Posted by cabmando (Post 11075068)

I was going to suggest storm windows. A less expensive but not as attractive option.

Huge bang for the buck.

Like Milt says, has said over the years, even the high-end windows are crap for insulation compared to an insulated wall.

As far as storm window appearance; it depends on how it's done. A neatly fitted piece of acrylic can do wonders for performance.

look, I had (have) a terrible time with Pella - and their lack of warranty, lack of support.

I'm in the glass industry and would stay away from Pella windows for a number of reasons.

Serene, what would you suggest?

My house has "Builders First Source" windows. They are made right down the street and I expect were the cheapest option during construction. The only good that came from it, when we needed a custom window made for our partial kitchen remodel, they matched exactly to what we have.

We did this upgrade on our condo about 2 years ago and it was worth it. 2nd story with a 3rd story loft that was getting bombarded with sunlight. Upstairs temp was usually 8-10 degrees higher than downstairs. Switched to Anderson vinyl windows with UVA/B coating and it made a significant difference in summer. We save probably about $80-$100/mo in electricity during the summer. There's also the benefit of reduced noise: Gardeners 3-4 days a week, loud events at the park, fire/police sirens at night.

The HOA is happy that our old windows aren't leaking either. The windows we had were original, steel framed, and some were cracked. One really bad rainy winter we decided enough was enough. Total cost for 9 and a sliding door was $8000 and change (5 different custom sizes). Nothing on these damn condos was made "standard".

Hey red-beard, my gripe with Pella windows is that they come up with window designs that
in many cases are difficult to service if the units fail which they will at some point. Find a
regional manufacture of frames that is in your area. Ask around. Milgard is widely available
on the west coast as are many others.You have straight vinyl frames,wood frames as in
Loewen which are more of a premium product, metal clad frames which can be metal on the
outside and wood or vinyl on the inside and many types in between. Look at what is suitable
in style and budget for your home and research locally,friends, neighbors, tradespeople and
glass shops that replace insulated units are a good place to start for advice. Look at the
warranties etc. Milgard used to give a lifetime warranty on the units to the original owner.
Most warranties are for the unit not the labor to re install. Zeke has also given very good
advice on windows and related home improvement issues.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeke (Post 11074908)

The biggest benefits to new windows is quiet and clean, followed by comfort as drafts are dramatically reduced. That means better overall temperature control for the whole house.

Three vertical 3' x 6' cheesy aluminum single pane windows overlooking pool in Houston. Replaced with $100 (1996?) vinyl double pane windows from Builder's Square.

1" x 4" facia trim. Six nails per old window, no caulk. Luckily new fit like a glove. Screws and caulk and a bit of paint I had left over from painting the house.

Quiet. Very quiet.

My 20yo house has Jeldwen double hung wood windows. Not impressed. The rain/moisture runs down the slider tracks and rots the sills in the corners.

The original windows are single pane glass - - full stop. As part of a renovation, I added a few new double pane low e windows to match the style, and while they are superior for noise, insulation, etc., they suffer the same issues with sill rot.

I did add 3M low e hurricane film to many of the original single pane windows. That did help a lot with the IR transmission, but doesn't help with single pane condensation issues in the winter. I worry less about security/hurricanes though, which is nice.

I've got 35-40 windows, so not planning to replace them all until I absolutely have to.

Would love to know if there's a good, long lasting window for humid climates. It's not Jeldwen.

here in s fla we are required to have hurricane ''proof'' windows on replacement or new builds

they test with a 2x4 firing gun BUT only one shot to reject penetration

unfortunately most hurricanes are multi shot and once hit the glass goes on the second hit EAZY
DORIAN tested the new style windows in the bahamas and they FAILED

but the buyers think they are hurricane ''proof'' and yard sale their shutters

o well I got steel shutters cheap for all windows my windows are old style small paine heavy alloy
mid 90s hurricane style and cover the doors also inc the garage in steel shutters
BTW GARAGE doors are a major weak point in hurricanes most will fail !

Quote:

Originally Posted by brainz01 (Post 11075173)

Would love to know if there's a good, long lasting window for humid climates. It's not Jeldwen.

Moved into a Victorian in Cypress from previous house mentioned. It had a wrap around internal porch along one side and half the back.

Wood Marvin casement windows. Maybe ten of them. A good deal of rot and house was built in '78.

We use Accoya wood for customers who want something that will last and who want real wood. It does not take on moisture. Warranted from decay for 50 years for exterior millwork.

Everybody has different wants depending on lifestyle and where they live.

Our house is rather unique, built in 1965 with sliding glass doors in every room. These are all high quality double pane originally installed in 1965 and they are in unusually good condition and glide like they are on air most of the time. We have a very mild climate 8 months per year and our house sits on a hill at treetop level, overlooking a golf course. Most afternoons and evenings we prefer to open up and let the breeze flow though. For 2 months in winter and 2 months in summer we batten down and run the HVAC as needed, typically 2 hrs per day.

We did have to replace one 12' glass door span that suffered some roof sag and cracked one of the panes as well as interfering with smooth door operation. It was an expensive Milgard $5k install but the results were excellent. I would see little benefit in changing out the rest of my high quality OEM windows for modern vinyl but might feel very differently if I lived in Maine, Florida, or TX where isolating yourself from the weather all 12 months becomes more important.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeke (Post 11075058)

Usually I agree with you 110% but there are some composite divided light windows that are pretty good looking from a historical point of view. What I don't get is that when I drive the neighborhood 90% of the windows are white. That is not necessary. But it's cheap.

In CA Title 24 requires LowE squared and argon. I agree that argon is not worth much in mild climate. But that's the fooking state for you, they don't study the effects. If I live in N. Dakota, I'd have argon for sure. I'd also use composite rather than vinyl.

Believe it or not, just dual pane is not that different energy wise than single pane. But the rest of the window design and construction makes a world of difference. Believe me, if you want to go full on window engineering and pontificate on windows in general, there is enough information to fill a thick book.

Bottom line is most new windows are a huge improvement over 50 YO ones. No rocket science there. I'd minimize the investment but get what looks good to you and for the house.

For instance, I have put Andersen vinyl clad windows in the front of many houses and did Milgard for the rest. The two vinyl colors match, but the interior of the Andersen is wood. So easy to paint or stain to match the décor. Other than the kitchen, most folks have window treatments in front of the window in bedrooms, etc., so it doesn't make sense to spend 2.5 times as much for those.

Regarding John Roger's post, CA has tightened the egress requirements so be SURE to understand those regs as it could have an effect on resale or worse if there happened to be a fire. This applies to a simple size for size change out:

"For determining egress window sizes and placement, the International Building Code holds that every bedroom must contain at least one egress window. It must be at least 5.7 square feet, that is at least 20 inches wide by 24 inches high, with an opening no higher than 44 inches from the floor." (copied from Google)

For an inexpensive, middle of the road (those cheap vinyl home depot or home center windows are not even in the equation) I found fiberglass windows (can have wood interior) to be a pretty good product, great bang for the buck. Fiber glass can be painted or come from the factory with colors, pretend to be a traditional looking wood window. I really like alum clad windows on both modern and older homes. I have Marvin's fiberglass clad in my own home. Made a huge difference in noise compared to the old steel casements from the 50s.

2 story home? Get double hung windows.

You guys are awesome! Thank you for the guidance brothers!

When I remodeled my last house, I went with Pella architect series windows. In 22 years, never had a single problem. Expensive, but the house was as quiet as a tomb. You couldn’t hear a car driving by on the street outside.

here's a tip - if a window or anything else says "architectural" on it - you'll pay big big bucks

I have 30 year old Pella windows. Double paned with the interiors removable. Wood with aluminum wrapped exterior and adjustable shade which became a little sticky. They've held up well despite some small structure shift from an incorrect job by the PO. Very quiet. The seals are still good mostly.
I clean and oil them and keep 'em closed during rain.

The company quality may have changed since then. IDk.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb (Post 11075987)

here's a tip - if a window or anything else says "architectural" on it - you'll pay big big bucks

Yeah, so what? There are quite a few differences between those and the lesser grades that Pella sells. I wanted the best, I could afford it, end of story.

Oftentimes in life you get what you pay for.