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This ****ing screw
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1604182819.jpg
Am sending the Öhlins off to be rebuilt. Or that was the plan until this ****ing screw. |
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Dremel with small cut off wheel. Re-cut the slot. Single slot should do. Ice cube on it for 15 minutes will also help shrink the screw for better release. Heat on the knob also if needed.
BTDT..... |
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Always worked for that rusty (useless) Philips screw that holds on a brake rotor hat.
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Yep, that screw doesn't (yet) look too badly mangled. An impact driver that should be available at any hardware store should work on it just fine.
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already have an extractor kit. but this thing is microscopic. and the metal is soft as butter.
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looks like I'm going to the hardware store tomorrow.
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Yes, impact driver and the judicious application of force. |
A couple of drops of penetrating oil or WD sitting overnight should help, galvanic corrosion between the screw and the aluminium knob, careful hitting it with an impact as you may damage the valve.
Heating the aluminium will probably make it tighter. With larger flat head screws a hit with a small hammer and punch usually would break the taper free but you have the valve to protect. |
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In my experience these types of applications use Loctite making removal difficult.
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I would take a small punch and go round the points of the Phillips one by one driving CCW. |
Brand new screwdriver sized correctly may help. I've found that these are a problem when I accidentally use a 25-year old screwdriver that has seen better days!
Also, the knob can be easily replaced by them too if you happen to damage it while removing it. What give me sweats is when there is a part that is NLA surrounding a screw like this! -Wayne |
You guys ever tried screw grab ? My one mechanic used to keep a little bottle in his tool box, I always picked on him about it, but it worked several times when I tried it in a situation like this .
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