Woodworking and carpentry thread

[look 171]

Take the 52" fence, Steve if you will be doing any case work. Its a real btich dragging all that our just to cross cut a piece in length with a track saw. Its not impossible, just more to take out and put them all back for a couple cuts.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by javadog

It's no big deal. I remodeled my last house over a 7 year period. I gutted it down to the structure and replaced some of that, as well. You work on one room or one area at a time and cordon off the rest to contain the mess. Our first 6 months in the house, we didn't even have a proper master bedroom.

From my memory, this is a second house for you, so no need to completely move in first and then try to live there. Complete the big projects first, then move in as you have completed rooms or areas. Don't make it harder on yourselves.

If you do any new sheetrock, as you have suggested you will, you'll at least be redoing the door, window and cased opening trims. No way you want to walk all the way to the "shop" every time you make a cut.

My advice is to get the house knocked out first, then entertain your "shop" and "woodworking" fantasies on weekends, way down the road.

THe original plan was for it to be a weekend house, but we may now be planning to live in it at least for a short period (a year-ish) assuming I can work out good enough Internet access to be able to work from home. It's only 1530 sqft.

We could end up doing some changes upstairs that would mean some drywall (mostly subtraction), but anything is possible.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by look 171

Take the 52" fence, Steve if you will be doing any case work. Its a real btich dragging all that our just to cross cut a piece in length with a track saw. Its not impossible, just more to take out and put them all back for a couple cuts.

Good call, it is only an extra $100 over the 36".

[masraum]

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[MBAtarga]

How large an area do you have to locate all this equipment? Is it "permanent"?

[masraum]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

How large an area do you have to locate all this equipment? Is it "permanent"?

We've got a detached garage that's 460sqft (presumably 23'x20'). It should be permanent. I will want to have some space in the garage, possibly enough for one car. I don't think that'll be an issue.

Stuff that was still in the garage last Sat when we visited. We're buying the mower.

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by masraum

We've got a detached garage that's 460sqft (presumably 23'x20'). It should be permanent. I will want to have some space in the garage, possibly enough for one car. I don't think that'll be an issue.

Something to consider in terms of placement - in a previous basement workshop, I placed the far right side of my table saw very close to the right side wall in my shop, midway along the wall. Since most of your work will be to the left side of the fence -you don't need room beyond the right side table surface. This gives you more room to the left of the saw to move around and/or place other equipment. By placing it midway on the wall's length, you should have plenty of room to rip 8' to 10' length lumber INTO the saw - as well as have room for this same lumber on the out-feed side past the blade. Of coarse, this placement also helps with 4x8' sheet goods as well.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

Something to consider in terms of placement - in a previous basement workshop, I placed the far right side of my table saw very close to the right side wall in my shop, midway along the wall. Since most of your work will be to the left side of the fence -you don't need room beyond the right side table surface. This gives you more room to the left of the saw to move around and/or place other equipment. By placing it midway on the wall's length, you should have plenty of room to rip 8' to 10' length lumber INTO the saw - as well as have room for this same lumber on the out-feed side past the blade. Of coarse, this placement also helps with 4x8' sheet goods as well.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Any efficient used of space is a good use of space since I don't have unlimited space.

[masraum]

The kids gave me my old Dewalt reciprocating saw back. I think it was probably a 12A. It had been my dad's and then I inherited it when he passed away. It wasn't that old or terribly sentimental, but I thought it was cool that I was getting it back. They'd somehow managed to kill it. No idea how. They never mentioned that it was dead. They did tell me how they'd managed to saw through a 6" branch with a 12V Milwaukee which seemed weird to me (now I understand why).

Well, I went whole hog and got a Milwaukee 15A saw with orbital action. I took it out to the new home today and while I was there, I used it to clear/trim some live trees and shrubs. The biggest thing that I took down was a 6" pecan tree (holy moly that trunk was heavy, must be really dense wood). I can saw that the saw laughed at what I threw at it.

[Nostril Cheese]

[hcoles]

This might be slightly OT. I want to DIY a TV cabinet that stands on the floor up against a wall. I don't have a table saw but I can borrow one. The Bora track system looks pretty good instead of using a table saw. What is the suggested design for the bottom of the cabinet? For example bun feet? Some info./thoughts on the design: for a 65" TV, shelf for a sound bar and slide out shelves for electronic components. I'm thinking a face frame design. Any tips or links to videos/etc. would be helpful. I have a good amount of DIY wood working experience but it is not cabinet level, more like fence building level. I have a circular saw, cutoff saw and an air compressor. Maybe I should detail the design using Sketch-Up and post here for comment?
Thanks. - Henry

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by hcoles

This might be slightly OT. I want to DIY a TV cabinet that stands on the floor up against a wall. I don't have a table saw but I can borrow one. The Bora track system looks pretty good instead of using a table saw. What is the suggested design for the bottom of the cabinet? For example bun feet? Some info./thoughts on the design: for a 65" TV, shelf for a sound bar and slide out shelves for electronic components. I'm thinking a face frame design. Any tips or links to videos/etc. would be helpful. I have a good amount of DIY wood working experience but it is not cabinet level, more like fence building level. I have a circular saw, cutoff saw and an air compressor. Maybe I should detail the design using Sketch-Up and post here for comment?
Thanks. - Henry

You should post a picture of what you want to build....or something close.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by hcoles

This might be slightly OT. I want to DIY a TV cabinet that stands on the floor up against a wall. I don't have a table saw but I can borrow one. The Bora track system looks pretty good instead of using a table saw. What is the suggested design for the bottom of the cabinet? For example bun feet? Some info./thoughts on the design: for a 65" TV, shelf for a sound bar and slide out shelves for electronic components. I'm thinking a face frame design. Any tips or links to videos/etc. would be helpful. I have a good amount of DIY wood working experience but it is not cabinet level, more like fence building level. I have a circular saw, cutoff saw and an air compressor. Maybe I should detail the design using Sketch-Up and post here for comment?
Thanks. - Henry

FYI, I'm completely happy with a post like this in this thread. It's mostly been about me and our new home, but I'm happy for it to be anything carpentry or woodworking related, hence the wide-open title. I'll be watching for replies.

[masraum]

I've also been enjoying this guy's videos.
He seems knowledgeable and down to earth.




And then I also branch out when these guys mention other guys.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

You should post a picture of what you want to build....or something close.

Okay - here is a picture of the idea. I would want the TV higher and have a shelf that slides out to get to the back of electrical components and a shelf right under the TV for a sound bar. You can also see Shara Woodshop Diaries. She builds a large entertainment center. Thanks for helping out. My question to wood workers is probably like posting how to check oil level on a 911.

The picture shows a design that seems too "fancy" for what I need. I'm thinking a straight forward cabinet with a light color wood grain finish.
I was thinking the middle cabinet (main cabinet) could be made in two pieces so it is not too big to get easily into the house.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by hcoles

Okay - here is a picture of the idea. I would want the TV higher and have a shelf that slides out to get to the back of electrical components and a shelf right under the TV for a sound bar. You can also see Shara Woodshop Diaries. She builds a large entertainment center. Thanks for helping out. My question to wood workers is probably like posting how to check oil level on a 911.

The picture shows a design that seems too "fancy" for what I need. I'm thinking a straight forward cabinet with a light color wood grain finish.
I was thinking the middle cabinet (main cabinet) could be made in two pieces so it is not too big to get easily into the house.

Cool, I can't wait to see what the guys come back with.

[look 171]

I can go on and on about different type of blades and get about the same for just the opposite of what I say.

Buy a good blade, those Diablo at homedepot are not gooe, industry quality blades.

IMO, a General purpose combo blade is needed. We have a 60 tooth blade on our 10" saw all the time. A completely different animal on the large sliding table saw, 72 tooth blade, triple chip grind as well as alternate top bevel, known to saw people as ATB. We stick to three brands, Meyers, Leitz, and FS. We do have a few Amana and some other older industrial blades.

My recommendation is to buy two blades, a combo (normally a 50 tooth for a 10" blade, 4 atb with a raker tooth) and a ATB blade for crosscuts and plywood to produce chip free cuts. Try to buy thin kerf blade for the contractor type saw, but do put blade stabilizers on to keep blade true. Heat will warp them, so go easy, not slow because that creates too much heat. You will get the feel is the saw is bogging down. Thin kerf blades will help a lot but they are not as robust. I always like to run a thin kerf blade on my 10" saw.

[pwd72s]

Not cabinetry or construction, but an art form of it's own. Ever wondered why a custom pool cue is so high priced? Well, if it's a full splice cue with four needle sharp and even veneered points, it's a LOT of work to make just the blank.

four minute video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4lRBZM_gFw&feature=emb_title

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by hcoles

I actually have building a new TV center such as the above on my "honey-do" list.
As you mention/ask - build the center base console separate from the upper section. Most china cabinets, armoires and other large cabinetry is built like that. I plan to make the center section a little wider so that TV upgrades in size won't be so limited.
The side cabinets will also be a little wider than the above. I plan for it to be built of cherry or mahogany.

[look 171]

Yep. Build the lower and upper sections separately, connect them at location. If all lower are the same height, connect them up first then put uppers on top of it. Here's a simple ugly and simple drawing showing the nosing that will hide all seams making it look like if the whole thing is one piece.