My next meter is going to talk to me. I'm am tired of trying to hold two probes on wires while I'm ass deep under a hood and trying to contort my way around to see the meter read out. I want to focus on the probe connections and let the meter tell me out loud what the reading is.

straight up genius.!!

Time to buy new probes. Variety allows you to clip or hook and not always have to hold...

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Zero
Zero
Zero
Negative Thirteen point one
Negative Thirteen point two
Negative Thirteen point two
Dude - You have the leads backwards
Zero
Zero
Zero
Thirteen point two
Thirteen point one
Thirteen point two
Thirteen point two
Thirteen point two
Thirteen point one
Zero
Thirteen point two
Thirteen point two
Thirteen point one
Zero
Zero

Yeah, it had better have some thought put into it

Can someone explain why my Simpson 260 Series 5 that I have had for 30yrs, still works, has the original batteries (1) D and (4) AA, and never leaked. I never use it anymore, but I opened it up, just to look, expected to see a corroded mess. Nope, looks just like new with the original batteries and the batteries are good.



Why don't they make batteries like that anymore? 30yrs! no corrosion!

Did someone say test leads?

https://probemaster.com/dmm-multimeter-test-leads/

Vash, if you go cheap, make sure to get one that is out off. Not all are.

Also, if all you want to do is check battery levels (12v?), I bought a couple of water proof digital voltmeter gauges and plan on putting clips on them for in the boat and ice fishing house. Advantage? No batteries to go dead.

Something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Monitor-12V-Battery-Meter-2-5-30V-DC-Auto-Gauge-Digital-Voltmeter-LED/171568461831?hash=item27f246f807:g:JycAAOSw0vBUgDG d

The two times I've bought a Fluke, they got stolen. Like when you buy nice sunglasses.

I really liked the thermocouple function on them, but it was pricey BOTH times. Just have a generic Craftsman one now for basic troubleshooting.

The test reel makes everything pretty easy. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1606857960.jpg

You sir, are indeed.... the probe master.

Thank you for the link

my wife bought me my Christmas gift..and it wasnt a Fluke.

and yes, i drop hints starting from October...or i get sweaters.

I don't think I've seen even one serious justification of buying a Fluke in this entire thread.

So far, it seems like the Snap On of multimeters.
Good product but costs 1000% mark up because USA quality.
Snap On is simply not worth buying for anyone who is not a professional,
and even most pros probably don't need to pay Snap On's outrageous cult premium.

But, can someone speak to the FEATURES of Fluke?
Or is it really just Snap On?

Can anyone actually explain why a Fluke costs $500
and what it can actually do that a $16 Sears can't do?

This one might look nice on you Vash. Better than owning a silly ole Fluke.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1606867897.jpg

I use one like this
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-cm/p-A028382415#Imagezoom

Does amperage and voltage.

Unless you are an Electrical Tech or some other profession that requires perfection, the Fluke 87 III a true RMS metering device is overkill.
You want quality. Ideal's 61-702 is more than you will ever need. It is inexpensive and what I like
is that you can clamp it around a circuit and read AC current. Great meter and does everything.

The Fluke is a good meter and I used the 87 for years. I also grew up with the analog Simpson
270.

Forget the Fluke. Get an Ideal. Why spend a lot of your hard earned money on a name?

The $100+ one I suggested is RMS and has a Thermocouple Input (And a Themocouple!). I think the TC is typically used for reading temp on an Air Con unit.

Umm... Porsche comes to mind

And Maple acts as trollish as a few guys from the upper left coast

Of course there are intangibles..

Does anyone here know the difference between a $43 Fluke and a $397 Fluke?
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-FLUKE-87-V-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B0002YFD1K/
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Multimeter-Equipment-Industrial/dp/B00JT5RUUU/

I did some reading and the massive price differences are due to CAT voltage ratings.

The basic $43 Fluke (or $16 Craftsman) is for CAT III or 600V.

The $400 Fluke is rated CAT IV which is industrial level stuff like transformers and junction boxes.

Since this is a car forum, this is small peanuts, and the $16 Craftsman is all you'll need
unless you're planning on climbing power lines or something.

The guy testing an automotive power window with a $400 Fluke
seems like the guy using a 1000 ft.lbs. Ingersoll air impact wrench to assemble a desk from Ikea.
Or a guy playing Smoke on the Water with a $10,000 guitar and amp setup.
Or the guy in PCA DE Green group with his GT3 Cup Car

People with very expensive "best" equipment
who barely are scratching the surface of its capabilities,
or worse, don't even know what it can do,
always look foolish.

Speaking of looking foolish, I'd like to buy a book on how to be better with my multimeter. I really know very little other than battery voltage, mains voltage, and ohms.

i'd love to know how to check the smart meter on the house and see if it is actually correct.