It was a 1992 so a 3.3L, had been twin plugged with a crank fired ignition, B&B headers with heat and sport cats, bigger turbo (been a while so I don't remember which turbo), Tial wastegate, PSS9's...

Sounds like a good build on you TT, will be a great daily driver.

I am familiar with that engine.

I have a 3.4 in my 930. Twin plugged, 964 cams, k27 turbo, euro fuel head, BB header with heat also and Brola Exhaust. The engine is flame ringed and lower ring and pinon for a bit more take off speed. Too bad its only 4 speed but good enough for me. Shimmed stock waste gate at 1 bar.

Hey look, one other upgrade you might consider is a Numeric shifter over the 997 Cup. I’ve had both and greatly prefer the Numeric, and you have the benefit of adjustability as well. Not cheap but worth it. Also don’t forget the knob, the factory knob rubber breaks down inside and contributes to crappy shift feel. I like the aluminum knobs from Function First, lots of options and they are very high quality.

I don't even know what the Numeric shifter is? Thanks for tip on the rubber part. Looking it up now. There's so much to learn

Here’s a couple of links. The Numeric shifters are a work of mechanical art. The Cup shifter is better than stock but still mostly plastic and not adjustable. For the shift boot I order from Redline Goods, quality stuff at good prices and also lots of options.

https://www.numericracing.com/
FUNCTION-FIRST > Classic Shift Knob

Sounds like our motors were pretty similar, K27 is what mine was now that you mention it.

Since you are going to be DD'ing the TT I would go ahead and replace the frunk opener actuator. It is not too expensive but its a total pain in the a$$ to open the frunk when that thing craps out. Mine would work to open the frunk and put something in there but then not properly operate for about 4 hours. I had a suitcase that fit specifically in there and drove to the airport only to cancel my trip and drive home when the frunk would not open. Yes there is a pull cable in there but you need to take the inner wheel well off to get to it. I lengthened mine and hid it behind the right turn signal. Can you tell I was pissed about it not opening :)

It’s pretty easy to re-route the frunk cable so it’s reachable from the front grille. What a stupid design on the part of Porsche, especially considering that the battery is up there.

I thought I'd return to the thread that changed my thinking:

Ohlins R&T w coilovers. The dang springs settled by about 5mm. I adjusted the ride height to exactly the manual specs, which lowered the car initially by around 15mm.

Driving impression: the grip around sweeping corners is totally MENTAL!! Fr: -1.5 camber R: -2.0 camber. Toe: F -.5 R 0.0

On freeways, the bumps from expansion joints are smoothed out. It's like magic.

While I was in there, I changed the gear oil (6-speed manual) to Mobilube PTX 75W-90

I also installed a Numeric shifter but did not install the Numeric cables yet. The shifter felt like butter, and is really fast so I decided to leave it alone.

Lessons learned:
You must re-install the stock plastic/steel/rubber bushings at the top of the front struts. They are not shown in the diagram, but are essential. Don't counter hold the struts with an allen key. It's too time consuming and you can't get a good torque reading like that. Counterhold the washer with a large screwdriver in the slot, and use an impact wrench to tighten/ loosen the top nut. The strut will be prevented from turning.

The sway bar pin/ pinch bolt can be counterheld in the rear with an allen socket while you tighten the nut.

Change all of the triple square bolts on the CV joints. The axles will have to be unbolted and removed .

You do not need to use spring compressors, despite all of the Youtube videos showing people doing this. It's easier to unbolt the lower control arm and remove it along with the steering knuckle or rear hub. The struts just drop out at that point.

You must order a PASM cancellation kit from Ohlins if you have PASM, which I do. The whole thing looks stock once installed. Super clean. Everything looks as if it came from the factory and is just beautiful. In fact, it looks better with a much higher build quality than stock.

And last, I am a huge fan now of Ohlins. Fantastic huge improvement over stock. It handles now like a UFO over corn country.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612487958.jpg

Nice! Great feedback. I’m yet to read anything bad about Ohlins stuff.

Don't care for the Ohlins R/T at all in a couple of applications. (997, E46 and 135 BMW). Great mis match in spring rate vs dampening. But, they have been OK in other vehicles we have installed them in. They do seem robust and not prone to failure like PSS9/10 products are.

That said, I really like KW products right from V1 up to Clubsport. I even run Clubsports in my crazy modified MK6 GTI.

One step further would be Motion Control. We use MCS in the racecars we build. They have everything from 1 way to 4 way adjustable. Amazing service and responsiveness to inquiries. Amazing Motorsports level products. Quick turn around. Best service we have had from any vendor, which is high praise as many of the vendors we deal with are exceptional. You can tell them your vehicle weight, proposed spring rate and they will build the dampener to suit. Was started years ago by ex Moton guys, they know what they are doing.

Cheers

Rusnak, thanks for the feed back.

My car is still in the shop. Getting a set of Cargraphic header and low cell cat installed along with a IPD plenum package, coilpacks and all fluids changed out. I hate these while you are in there thing. It is suppose to provode a slightly better throttle feel. We will see and will report back.

^ I have the IPD plenum along with I think the 997/ Cayenne throttle body. It causes you to re-route the shifter cable if you have a manual transmission. It turns a simple modification into an "OMG WHY?!" sort of ordeal, but it all DOES fit if you work through it.

A highly recommended tool if you are DIY is a throttle cable ball/cup screwdriver pry tool thing. I got it from a place that sells Mercedes Benz tools, and is the only thing that I found to reliably and repeatedly remove the cup from the throttle link ball with no damage to anything. Also the shift link adjustable rod on the Numeric racing site is fantastic. All metal, and replaces the all plastic link that comes stock. You can also adjust out all of the slop that occurs in the fore/aft shift plane.

My "S" came factory stock with custom headers, so I left them on and went with a Borla cat-back muffler system. I actually do not recommend them. I had to do quite a bit of cutting, test fitting, bending, re-fitting, etc etc until everything fit as well as I could without a hydraulic pipe bender. It sounds great though. Looks great too.

KW looks very interesting: https://www.kwsuspensions.net/technology/coilovers

All the Porsche "MR" edition race cars from the factory come with KW. For an of the shelf product they are amazing, I do think a step above the off the shelf Bilstein options. Both are great brands, but consumer level off the shelf products KW gets the nod.

Cheers

My car is PDK thank goodness. :D

No muffler, just stock but think they might be sports mufflers from factory. Not sure. I am not too interested in sound anymore as I have many aftermarket mufflers and exhaust systems. Can't deal with drowning anymore. Getting too old for that carp. I do have to get a pipe bent up for the CArgraphic header to fit into the existing muffler. I am having the work done be because I don't the time and have no clue what the heck I am doing.

^ If you have sport chrono, then I would say definitely you need a more free flowing exhaust. I also do not like loud exhaust. I never went the boy speed-racer route. I think the Cayman is the first car that I EVER put an aftermarket muffler on. I don't regret it.

I have sport chrono, its an S. It suppose to sharpen everything a little bit with a tad more power (maybe transmission shift points?) but I can't tell the difference.

Any difference after the installation of the plenum on your car?

No, not really. The IPD Plenum is really not that compatible with Numeric Racing shifter cables. It looks cool and who knows, maybe it's better at WOT but I don't think so.

Taking another look at KW Suspensions. I like the adjustable compression and rebound features.

The IPD Plenum helps a bit in the midrange from what we have seen, and a bit up top.

Now that this thread has been brought back to life, I will amend my comments. We had a couple of failures of KW clubsports with no warranty support as "it is a race part" despite the street level spring rates they use to get TUV certification. So, I will group them with the other "shelf" products like Bilstien and H&R, Ohlins etc.

Very pleased with MCS and their support on race vehicle and street driven vehicles. We supply all the required data and can custom spec spring rates. They build the shocks based on the data provided and that give an amazing range of adjustment and the ability to still fine tune spring rates. Ya, it costs a few bucks more but you are getting true motorsport level products, will incredible support. Normal lead time for use on a set of dampeners is less than 2 weeks.

If you ever need a rebuild, turn around time is super quick. Bilstein won't even rebuild your PSS9/10, and won't sell you a pair (axle set) only a full kit which they likely don't have in stock and could be months out....

For street and performance/DE MCS 1WNR is likely all most people need. In the race cars we have used 2WNR and on when spec'd 2WR systems. Our street/performance GTT uses MCS IWNR after we threw out the KW Clubsports that failed, our Cayman S used MCS IWNR and our Boxster Race Car uses MCS 2WNR.

Let me know if we can help with a MCS Set Up for you.

Cheers

I am super happy with the way the shocks turned out. It dampens well, and the softer spring rates helps tremendously on the aggressive street driving compared the the Billsteins which rode like a rock. The throttle respond was felt immediately. Its faster in the upper end range too. My mistake was the after market intake. Iam told its the combination of all those items that will make a difference. I think I gained another 10-15 hp through my butt dyno. AFter a month of driving, I had to get rid of the intake. It sounded mean, on the interior, but that noise was too much for a daily driver. I think the motor had to be dropped to change it back to stock. Now, its quiet, but still a tiny, tiny bit louder then stock which I can totally live with. The handling is so much better with these new socks.

Now, I have to deal with these KWs in my 996 turbo. That's is another story for another time. Its been taken apart while my mechanic drag his ass maintaining race cars in another state. Its off season now, so he may be able to get that thing going.

Those KW shocks will get the softer springs for sure. That will become my daily driver while my wife drives the PDK CaymanS. She doesn't want to drive stick shift cars anymore.