Remove glue for/from carpet padding from wood floors
 

Is there a good, non-destructive way to remove the glue used when putting carpet padding down from a wood floor?

I've pulled up most of the carpet and padding from the upstairs from our new/old home. The floors underneath are in pretty good shape, but around the perimeter of the rooms is a bit of glue. It's clearish, and looks more glossy that the wood and in some places is tacky to the touch. In some places there's still a little padding stuck to the glue. Any know successful methods (other than sandpaper/refinishing the floors)?

I found one thing online that said they had good luck using ammonia and water.

I forgot to take pics

Depends on the composition of the glue, any idea when it was put down? Was it put down on bare wood or is there a finish?

Dry stuff might come up using a paint scraper and a little elbow grease to chip or flake it off.

The wood is finished and the finish is in pretty good shape.

I'm going to guess that the carpet was put down maybe 10-15 years ago. It seems like high quality stuff too. The padding seems denser and better than most padding that I've pulled up and the carpet is also a higher quality carpet than most. The glue is definitely not going to flake off. It's still tacky in spots, it seems thin, and maybe a little gooey.

Try any and everything in a small area. Wood damage can result.

Heat with blow dryer and scrap with plastic putty knife. Dry ice, WD 40, hot water, steaming wet towel, alcohol, laundry soap, etc.

Three things I'd start with (in an inconspicuous spot): Warm soapy water, WD40, and mineral spirits. If there's a closet, try there. If there's any way to get any of it off with some careful scraping that'll expedite the process.

Don't know about the ammonia angle, I'd try a strong vinegar/water solution before that, personally.

There is a closet, good call on that.

I use Bostic ultimate adhesive remover, a putty knife, paper towels, rubber gloves and elbow grease. Never use water on hardwood flooring. I'll go through more than a roll of paper towels in just one room. Cleaning that gooey pad glue with a rag will just smear that nasty stuff forever. Open a window and set up an exhaust fan. There's no easy way but this works the best.

I've done this and mineral spirits worked well in my case. Depends entirely on what finish is on the existing floor. If alcohol makes the finish soft, it's a shellac. Lacquer thinner will make waterborne finishes soft. When I say 'soft', I mean it will damage the finish. Mineral spirits won't hurt an oil based finish but can leave a smell.

It could get expensive using Goo Gone, but it's worth a lick in the closet and it's good stuff to have on hand anyway.

Scraping would be my last choice due to scratching potential. But, when you get the glue off you'll want to clean and wax the floors with a power buffer. Plenty of YouTubes on that. That will polish and even out the sheen.

I'd use my NON-acetone nail polish remover on a tiny area as a test spot first. I use a paper towel or old tee....

It's what I always have on hand :D

edited....and Goo Gone ;)

My question is why did the knuckleheads use glue on a wood floor? Staples is the norm. Plus 1 on mineral spirits.

The finish on that Hardwood floor is not shellac unless an unknowing bone head applied it. If that's the case (which i doubt), it's time to sand and refinish anyway so don't waste your time cleaning the adhesive. It should be a Uerathane finish and lacquer thinner will damage it. Mineral spirits will cut it but too slow. I do this for a living so time is money. Use the Bostik ultimate if you want to save yourself some pain. I get it at my supply house but I'm sure you can find it on line. At least they didn't staple the pad down, thats good. When installing carpet we usually we only use pad glue over concrete or tile where staples won't work. Nine out of ten times people cover a hardwood floor with carpet to cover a f'd up floor. Its cheaper to carpet than to refinish. You're lucky the hardwood is in good shape

Thanks all for the suggestions

I don't know the date of the house but shellac and wax was the finish done on all wood floors (if not just wax alone) until good varnishes and particularly urethanes showed up commercially. Old varnishes could delay a house's construction by days if not a week or so. Shellacs and wax is fast and easy. It's still on my original floors in my 90 YO house.

I just keep it waxed.

I'm pretty sure the floors were refinished at some point. I spoke to some folks that bought the house in the early 90s and stayed there for about 5 years. I think they put a ton of time and energy into rennovating (but keeping mostly originalish). Then I think since then, someone else came in and made a few changes. I've seen some stuff on the floors that look like someone came in with a machine or belt sander and sanded and refinished. So whatever is on the floors is probably whatever was the norm in the last 30 years.

We still delay other work done inside for a week with urethane. Can't have foot prints on the sanded floor and then I like to give the finish a couple days to harden before traffic.
Amazing you have the original 90 year old finish on your floor, pretty cool

Is it double sided tape you're dealing with? I'd try goo gone or a heat gun and then goo gone to remove the remainder.

Nope, definitely glue.

I think I'd go the Wd40 route. Most of the stuff like goo gone or anything that will soften the glue much will also soften the coating on the floor and you'll likely dull it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610992292.jpg
This is what it is. Is it around the perimeter in a cork screw pattern? That's because we poke a hole in the lid and walk around the room dribbling it out. Nasty stuff. Use the Bostic ultra. Goo gone and Goof off could damage the finish

We used to use mineral spirits like naptha if it was still wet. There is an orange based cleaner that will get the glue up and shouldn't hurt the finish, but I don't remember the name. I haven't done commercial flooring in 20 years.