Old GM ignition switch problem:
 

The ignition switch on my 1982 RV, a Chevy chassis without a locking steering column, suddenly won't accept the key. It's as though there is a broken piece of a key inside but that is virtually impossible since I still have the entire key(s).

Does anyone know how to get one of these apart and see what's going on? :confused:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1616221544.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1616221544.jpg

My brother had the same problem on his old Nova. I'll message him and see what he says..

I do know that if the key goes in, you turn it counter clockwise and stick a paper clip in the small hole til it bottoms out. You can them remove the cylinder. Did you try some lube in the cylinder? graphite? WD40?

He said he jammed a small screwdriver in the key slot, turned it left and use the paperclip to withdraw it. Your results may vary

It looks to me like the three indents are made for a tool to unscrew the 'bezel'.

I know what I would do...try and tap it counterclockwise with a drift and a hammer.

I looked on 'Stone' auto. The GM standard did not look like that in the 80's, you have to go way back....

Maybe this will fit? "https://www.****auto.com/en/catalog/gmc,1972,c15/c1500+pickup,4.1l+250cid+l6,1308990,ignition,ignit ion+lock+cylinder,10041"

Yep. I had the exactly same lock in my 72 GM 1 ton camper special. That key got a bit sticky at times. I decided to take it to the wire wheel and soften the edges a tiny bit and spray the lock actual did the trick. I thin you may have a broken pin in the tumbler. It may be time to take the cylinder out and get it to the lock smith, Dennis.

You don't want to take a lock apart w/o the key in it. I know, I do locks. However, you can make a raking tool in 2 minutes with a file, angle grinder, or bench grinder. Tons of YT's ion the subject.

One guy suggests looking to see if the key is seating all the way. If not, he taps it in with a mallet while moving it around. That should dislodge anything that has gotten out of place.

While we're on the subject of lock picking, a YT'r named the "Lock Picking Lawyer" is really damn good. Watch him for awhile and you'll be buying much, much better locks.

Thanks. I have a close friend who is a locksmith, in fact he is a safe cracker and the best there is on this side of the country. He was a criminal in another lifetime and now he opens safes for the LAPD, FBI and every other LE agency in town. I brought my deadbolt for my front door to him before I installed it so that he could install special pins in the tumbler for me, (school pins?), he was surprised that they were already there. It's a Schlage, I think. Still pick-able, (they all are), but not easily.

The thing w the ignition key is the strangest thing...it has always gone in like butter and suddenly the key won't go in. No warnings from it being sticky, nothing. And thank god it didn't happen on the cross-country road trip in cold weather.

Unfortunately, the RV is 60 miles away or I'd have my friend pick the lock.

Used Lock-Ease on a door lock and an ignition assembly recently. Key would go in but would not turn. Fixed both short term but within a week symptoms returned.

It appears to be set up the same way the ignition switch on the 356 is - bezel on front holding it in place, nothing else behind it.

One more vote for making a tool to turn the bezel - some needle nose pliers can fit into two of the notches and let you turn some. Once bezel is unscrewed the entire ignition switch assembly will likely be able to be pulled down a tad so you can see the wires, then disconnect. Now you can work on your locksmithing skills at a bench with good lights, inside a big plastic bag if needed.

AFAIK, there are only a couple of ways to configure a common Schlage, Kwikset and all of their derivates. The bottom pins are actually 2 pins stacked when one can have a key and a master key. Typically there is just one pin at the top. The purpose of the bottom pins is simply to keep the top pins from over extending (especially a double pin set) and falling out of their bore.

Of course there are tiny springs involved. If one of those breaks then the pins can become inoperable or dislodged.

This is the most used design:

https://static-or01.inbenta.com/fc73...ded%20View.png

Although most residential locks use 5 pins, not 6. The purpose of the key is to raise the bottom pins level with the plug surface allowing it to turn. In the case of a master key, 2 keys cut differently accomplish the same thing with different (split) pin heights. Only one split pin can do it, or any number.

Raking a lock uses one tool rotating the cylinder that puts a slight pressure on the pins with while another tool is used to move the pins up until they catch on the very edge of the bore. IOW, successful picking depends on some clearance and/or wear.