My first time
 

Looks like 2" flexible PVC for a project would be great for this project, but I've never used it before. It's going to be low pressure cold water. Can I really just glue it to a regular PVC fitting? I see special flexible PVC glue, so I guess it's done. Any caveats? Is there a special flexible PVC pipe for gluing or is it all the same?

Check code for your area. Some flexible pipe is not code if run very far.

We call that kind of pipe "flex pipe" and this is the glue I have always used and had good success:

https://content.interlinebrands.com/...657759_usn.jpg

Also, unlike conventional PVC pipe - do not twist 90 degrees after fitting is pushed on. Just hold it in place for at least a minute or two.

This glue dries much faster than standard glue.

Not trying to be rude - but a thread title like "Input requested for using 2" flex pipe" works better for me than "My first time".

Again - not trying to be rude - just passing along my thoughts.....

Pool plumbing question
 

Sorry about the thread title. I got called away from the computer while working on the post and it came out "My First Time" instead of "My first time using flex PVC."
I wish there was some way to edit thread titles or delete threads and start over.
Anyway...

I am dry fitting the plumbing for a pool heater and I have questions. I want to use a bit of flexible pipe between the pad that the pump and filter sit on and the pad for the heat pump pool heater. Just enough to account for settling, etc.

Another issue is the hard plumbing. In the photo below, do I need a ball valve at "C" since I have a diverter at "A" and a check valve at "B"? It doesn't seem like I should, but I'm not sure what best practices are here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1620754041.jpg

Hey, it got me to open it and I was fully prepared to explain to him how to do a hot beef injection

^^^ I try to forget my 'first time'

So you're saying this is the first time you've used the pipe Patrick? :)

Worse yet you mention you're doing it dry!? You SAVAGE. :)

You gotta stretch before going to 2".... dont want any tears....

How much are you expecting it to settle?

But your hand just won't let you. :D

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Hey Patrick, are you wondering about flow back through the heater if you throw that diverter or are you thinking for isolation if you want to remove the heater?

What pressure does that system operate? Pretty sure you have 3 drain fittings not designed for pressure. The only supply fitting is the “T” on the far left. Maybe it doesn’t make a difference for your application, I won’t pretend to know anything about pools other than I don’t want one. Good luck with your project.

[QUOTE=cabmando;11328573]But your hand just won't let you. :D

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My best friend?? :D

IDK where the warm water comes out but I was always under the impression that the first 6 feet of piping from the warm side of the pool heater needed to be copper. I guess times have changed?

Yeah, I'll be 71 years old in 3 weeks and I figure it's about time to find out what I've been missing. :rolleyes:


Never had a heated pool.


Hey, I'm just a beginner.

I don't know what the pressure is. It has to be very low. The pressure differential between the pump and the filter outlet is 12 PSI. After that it's just a few feet of pipe.

Nick, I had not considered the possible need to completely remove the heater. Might be a good reason to have a ball valve.

Wouldn’t a threaded coupling/union be better than a ball valve to disconnect it vs turning it off. Or maybe both?

Those pipes look more suitable for sewage. And it's not even Friday night yet.

There are unions at both the connections to the heater.

You could isolate in the event the heater needed removed and still use the pool. With a union you'd need to find something to plug the union with or remove it and cap the line. With a ball valve, just turn the handle, pull the heater and keep on swimmin!

Careful! That might not be a snickers bar in the pool!:)