drywall repair, cracks, best method

[masraum]

I've done some drywall repair in the past with moderate, but not great results. Our home is an old pier and beam home that has some cracks from settling and movement.

What would be the best way to repair these cracks?

In one case, I was going to pull out a piece of drywall to try to determine if there was TnG or shiplap behind it. I didn't pull the piece out, but it's cut (and quite solidly in place) so I need to repair where the cuts are. In other spots, it's just cracks from movement. Some spots are start at the corners of doors or windows. A couple/few spots are in corners where there's tape.

What are your recommendations, please?

firmly attached


crack from door/window


crack in corner

[masraum]

I've checked out a couple of youtube videos that had some interesting info, but most of those are for patching a hole.

I assume in this case, I'll need to tape the cracks and then finish them. I saw one that said sand down to the paper (get rid of paint and texture) first, many/most do not say to sand, but that seems like the best way to get a nearly invisible repair.

One talked about using a foam (looked like a low expansion), but again, this was for patching a hole.

Another actually recommended using paintable caulk instead of mud which I also thought was interesting and might be good under certain circumstances. The specific video was for patching a hole.

[expatriot98]

You can bed over it, tape then bed it out or use a flexible caulk but no matter what method, it will most likely crack again as the house flexes. But you may get lucky.

[serene911]

Go on You Tube and search Vancouver Carpenter. He just does drywall video's.
Pretty straight forward and good information.

[Bill Douglas]

Yes. but first bevel the edges, a layer of plaster squeezed into the gap with the thin layer either side. Then the paper, then three thin layers of plaster drying in between coats. Sand.

Trust me I do this all the time.

[VINMAN]

I use a product called Fibafuse. It's an ultrathin fiberglass mat tape. You bed it in the drywall compound over the crack. 1000 times better than paper.


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[masraum]

The doors and windows have stained 6" (5.5) boards as trim Most of the doors have what we believe is original wood trim. The windows have more modern trim that's full of knot holes. We want to replace the trim on the windows with something else, probably painted and almost certainly not 6". We'll probably be leaving the trim around the doors. So I pulled down one of the window trim boards.

Based on what I saw, we'll have to replace/patch some or all of the space around the windows (and may be a good time to add some insulation).

It's interesting, I spoke to the guy that bought the house and did some renovations in the 90s. He said that the inside walls were covered in something like a heavy cardboard. I believe the house was built by the first owner in 1924. The first owner died in 1960 and his wife died in 1965. The guy that owned the house in the 90s said that it had been empty for a while when they moved in.

The photos below are behind the top, horizontal casing for the window.
[IMG][/IMG]
Anyway, this is what was behind the piece of window trim that I took down.






So what are your thoughts on if sheetrock could be added as a patch (maybe take more out and make it 12" around the window or re-sheetrock part or all of the room?

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Yes. but first bevel the edges, a layer of plaster squeezed into the gap with the thin layer either side. Then the paper, then three thin layers of plaster drying in between coats. Sand.

Trust me I do this all the time.

Oh man, I'm so sorry! I'm not a huge fan of dealing with sheetrock, but then I suspect that's because I've been doing it wrong.

Thanks for the info. When you say bevel the edge, I assume you mean bevel the edge of the crack, maybe by cutting a 45º into the edge of the sheetrock, how much, 1/4"?

[masraum]

Originally Posted by expatriot98

You can bed over it, tape then bed it out or use a flexible caulk but no matter what method, it will most likely crack again as the house flexes. But you may get lucky.

Sure, no great surprise. But if I can figure out how to do a decent repair myself, then it won't be too big a deal for me to repair from time to time.

Originally Posted by serene911

Go on You Tube and search Vancouver Carpenter. He just does drywall video's.
Pretty straight forward and good information.

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Originally Posted by VINMAN

I use a product called Fibafuse. It's an ultrathin fiberglass mat tape. You bed it in the drywall compound over the crack. 1000 times better than paper.

Thanks all, good info.

[1990C4S]

Best youtube guy is Vancouver carpenter. Just do what he suggests. I used to hate drywall, and I was crap at it.

Now I am very good to extremely good, and it's all thanks to him.

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by serene911

Go on You Tube and search Vancouver Carpenter. He just does drywall video's.
Pretty straight forward and good information.

Yes. 100%.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

Best youtube guy is Vancouver carpenter. Just do what he suggests. I used to hate drywall, and I was crap at it.

Now I am very good to extremely good, and it's all thanks to him.

Good to know, thanks.

But he's probably all metricy and says "eh" and "hoser"?

[911 Rod]

If it cracked once, it will crack again.
I'd take out a larger piece so the new one does not have a join were it was cracking.
I have a couple that open up every winter and close in the spring. Annoying.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

If it cracked once, it will crack again.
I'd take out a larger piece so the new one does not have a join were it was cracking.
I have a couple that open up every winter and close in the spring. Annoying.

OK, so your vote is to replace the cracks with a larger piece so there's no crack or seam where they are cracked.

[1990C4S]

There used to be a rubber product you could spray on cracks. It would stretch and contract with seasonal movements. I have not seen it in years.

Look for 'Good-Bye Cracks'.

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by masraum

, maybe by cutting a 45º into the edge of the sheetrock, how much, 1/4"?

Yes, just like that.

Haha, I've got some strange hobbies but fixing drywall isn't a favorite of mine either.

Yep, the idea of the 1/4" bevel is to have more surface area and to get some plaster into the joint. Sometimes I get lazy and don't use paper but a hairline crack always appears. Some of those other products will work well, but I just copy what the pro's do.

[908/930]

To make it finish flat you will have to sand it down to below surface where the tape will be, and beside it for a couple of inches, wear a mask and run a Vacuum with the exhaust port going outside, some of the old materials had asbestos in them. For a filler and for taping I like to use USG Durabond 45, or something similar, not intended for finish coat though it is hard to sand, I pre-fill any deep sections and after it is dry I would tape using Durabond, then skim coat with reg finishing compound, intend on applying a couple of layers, don't try to get flat in one coat. I also use a 18" drywall trowel for finishing, can get walls quite flat.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by 908/930

To make it finish flat you will have to sand it down to below surface where the tape will be, and beside it for a couple of inches, wear a mask and run a Vacuum with the exhaust port going outside, some of the old materials had asbestos in them. For a filler and for taping I like to use USG Durabond 45, or something similar, not intended for finish coat though it is hard to sand, I pre-fill any deep sections and after it is dry I would tape using Durabond, then skim coat with reg finishing compound, intend on applying a couple of layers, don't try to get flat in one coat. I also use a 18" drywall trowel for finishing, can get walls quite flat.

Thanks, all of the drywall is no older than ~1990. It's my understanding that the folks that owned the place then essentially gutted it. It's got modern wiring, PVC sched 40 plumbing, modern windows, drywall, etc..., but I'll keep in mind the bit about the hazardous materials.

Yes, one of the videos showed the guy sanding either side of the repair.

Good to know about the 18" knife/trowel.

[908/930]

In the first pic is there some support behind the joint? When you get it all flat and finished, I would usually put three or four of layers of paint over the section I have been working on and lightly sand the wall to blend it to the paint on the existing wall. Easy to see the different texture through new paint.

[Chocaholic]

Toothpaste.

You can thank me later.