Deck board staggering questionI'm obviously not a carpenter, but I
 

I'm obviously not a carpenter, but I'm sure I can pull it off with a little layout help.
Going to pull the old wood decking and install Trex composite. From the outer edges of the end joists it measures 23' 10" across. The width is 12' 10". Boards will be lengthwise. 16" joist spacing. The Trex is 20'. Where the board butt, I'll double up the joists so one clip per joist. Trying to figure out a butt pattern that is professional looking and keep waste to a minimum. Is there an online planner where you put in the dimensions and voila, or is it obvious to a pro. TIA.

John, we randomize the joints, I think that looks best. Use the off cut from the previous deck board to start the next. I thought it also comes in 16' and other lengths?

You don't need to double the joists at the but, the hidden fastener is wide enough to grab both boards.

From my deck:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625783149.JPG

I'll agree with keeping the joints random. Too much brain power wasted when in the end you'll be the only one that will know about it. Don't let the ADD get the best of you.

I was under the impression that Trex required closer spacing than 16".

John, I also like to use deck tape on top of the old joists when we do a re-deck, and seriously look at the flashing and attachment at the house.

Trex and other composite deck manufacturers prefer 12" spacing but they all say 16" is acceptable . My previous house had composite decking on 16" spacing that the previous owner had installed . To me it felt a little spongy but it had no real issues .

So random it is. However the cuts may fall. The YouTube vids mentioned 12" spacing if you go diagonal, but the rest just said 16" perpendicular. I'll get some joist tape and check the flashing when I get there. Thinking i'll do the outer 1/3 first so I have the old deck to kneel on. How about all the nails? Takes some effort to yank them, or just sawzall them and knock in the stubs?

The bigger the bar, the less effort. If you can't get a good purchase on an old nail, cut it or beat it, it don't matter.

Mine are narrower. Have to find some wide ones.

A heads up on composite decking warranties . Whatever brand you go with make sure you read the fine print of the warranty . As an example many will NOT cover the warranty if you don't seal the ends that you cut . Moisture intrusion causes the boards to swell . Many warranties state they won't cover stains caused by potted plants as an example . They suggest you move potted plants on a regular basis . Do you plan on putting a table and chairs on the deck ? Scratch/wear marks from sliding chairs back and forth on the deck generally is not covered .

I did a lot of online research before redoing our deck . I ended up not going with composite . I am NOT trying to sway your decision , I am just suggesting to make sure you make an educated decision . Good luck with your project .

I am not a fan of composite boards I have little experience with them, so take this as you will. With regular 5/4 decking I stagger my joints every other joist so 32" from joint to joint. Take the cut offs and and use on the other end for no waste. This also has joints line up every fourth course so the joints are less visible.

Consider sectioning your layout to eliminate end-to-end butt joints altogether. I'm in the process of redoing another deck with TREX and will be laying it out in three sections to (1) avoid any butt joints and (2) minimize waste using available board lengths.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1625845316.jpg

what ever you cut off one board, use that to start your next one otherwise you will waste a lot of money.

Something like this may be helpful for your demo

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wrecking-Claw-Wrecking-Claw-Each/1003003320