My experience with alignments is that most vehicles have specifications that say "if caster|camber|toe is set anywhere between here and there, it's fine."

Most alignment shops will take something that shows outside of the "here to there" range and change it until it's just barely inside the range and then tighten things down and consider themselves done. It doesn't matter if the two sides of the vehicle are at opposite ends of the ranges. And for most folks and/or most cars that might not matter (because the cars are sloppy or the drivers don't know and don't care).

I notice and it bugs me. I want the settings as close to the same from side to side as possible.

I've gotten alignments years ago where the settings were in the green zone, but radically different and I had a pull and the wheel was cocked to one side. I'd go back and say "this is wrong" and would then get told "we aligned it to help when the roads are crowned" which, IMO, was total BS, because I'd just driven on several different roads and the car drove like sheiße.

I'd be happy to pay more for a good alignment (by going to a good shop), and do when I can.

What kind of car, and what are the alignment specs from the "after." I assume you're getting a before/after print out of what the car was set to.

I'd check the front left caliper to see if it might be dragging.

This is never a bad idea and should be part of any alignment inspection, (prior to alignment), if there is a complaint about vehicle drifting to one side or the other. If a vehicle is actually *pulling* to either side, it needs a lot more than an alignment. Nothing just goes that far out of spec with good parts underneath it.

The important thing with that car is to check the steering gear box and position of the wheel first, as I outlined above. You can do this at home if you have a set of ramps or jackstands, (be safe!), it will not affect the alignment settings at all. Make sure that is correct and then align the car with the steering wheel perfectly centered, (gently move side to side and find the neutral center), and held in place with the ignition lock. Mercedes-Benz cars will always lock in the dead center position.

You did not mention the total mileage of this car but MB steering gearboxes of that era also have an adjustment for wear in the gear or excessive play but it's very limited. Good luck.