Removing old chrome:
 

Any ideas appreciated. Long story short, I need to remove some old chrome that is in bad shape from a motorcycle part and then have it painted. I've been told that the only places with the vat of chemicals to do this are plating businesses, which are getting scarce and apparently can really name their price these days.

I was just quoted $150 minimum "shop charge" to dip this thing. That's a deal killer, I still need to have it professionally painted. I'm, going to talk to a body shop today, maybe they still have a bumper service(?)

The part:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628538407.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628538407.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628538407.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628538407.jpg

Possibly sandblast.
Muriatic acid/water mix

I would recommend checking out powdercoat, I've seen some "chrome" powdercoat jobs that were pretty impressive... not as good as real chrome but pretty nice.

Check out Artistic Plating in Harbor City. They stripped off the chrome from one of my Nortons a few years back.

Why remove the chrome? I would sand and prep for paint right over the chrome.

If we are talking bumper hitches I know a chick.

+1
Sand, prime and paint.
The triumph parts all seem to like Rustoleum Engine Enamel.
Been wondering how your project is progressing.........
Engine back in and running??

Just media blast it with aluminum oxide at 100 psi. The media will create a nice etched surface for the epoxy primer too.

They beat me to it already . I have sand blasted a few sets of older chrome truck wheels, and then painted them, and not only did they turn out great, have held up pretty well, even on my snow plow truck .

Thanks all! It did not really occur to me that I could just sand and paint over it. Or more specifically, that it would bond well. It also occurred to me while reading your responses that my buddy recently acquired a small media blast cabinet, time to try it out!

Yep, riding it this weekend! Was ripping through a curve when the side cover let go…my error for not tightening it after some work the same day. Thanks for all your help! SmileWavy

Make sure you use the correct media. Glass bead will probably remove the chrome but just dimple the surface. Some 180-220 sanding over that would work for paint surface prep but Al2O3 will give you the best surface ready for paint uniformly all over the part.

Where were you for my "Golf ball Through A Garden Hose" thread?

Thanks. I was thinking that blasting it with anything that would remove chrome would also pit the metal. I wish that I could just get it dipped.

Done correctly, you want an etched surface for the epoxy primer to grab onto. Etched means more surface area for the primer to hold onto which means better adhesion. Fine grain aluminum oxide is the best choice for this job.

Sand blast it smooth. Just rent a blaster and do it yourself. Its easy..

You can try bleach.

https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Chrome-Plating

So, I took the old spinning disc to it, just to see what the effect would be. I have to say that it looks good for painting and if my bike was more of a rat or a bobber, it looks kind of cool as-is. Should be a good surface for paint adhesion...opinions? :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628696448.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628696448.jpg

It was a really coarse disc, maybe I should sand it with a lighter grit now?

The thing is, and I think Denis knows this, is that there is likely some rust under the copper base plating. It should dome down to bare metal. A stiff wire wheel will get the stuff he can reach, but dipping or blasting will make sure.

There is a lot of debate about dipping things that are joined by spot welds, etc. It takes extraordinary effort to make sure the blind areas are neutralized. I knew of one restoration shop that refused to did anything but engine blocks and the like.

So that bracket could be a problem if not done right.

Couldn’t that spot weld just be touched up if necessary?

Looks good to me Bubba!

Looking very fine!

An etch primer (they contain phosphoric acid) will hang onto the surface well. As will a good 2k epoxy. Then enough layers of high build primer that you can sand then re-apply until there are no scratches showing. 800 grit, then base coat and clear. Or a single stage. It's looking good. Etch primers grip well to carbon steel, alloys, copper, all sorts of metals.

So I had my painter handle this one, came out a little better than a rattle can: ;)



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631046799.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631046799.jpg

Looks nice, but what does the inside look like?

He removed what corrosion he could and then put some treatment on it(?) Anyhow, no one ever sees the inside.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1631051730.jpg