Dewalt pilot point drill bits are da bomb!
 

If you have any drilling to do coming up . These are your huckelbery.
I just had to drill out 5 studs and lugs on a pos dodge caliber.
They did not just spit out chips, but huge curly que's just flyng the whole time. I got through all 5 studs and lugs in under an hour (usually a couple hour job at best ) and with only one bit .
I have a bunch of high dollar drill bits bought from snap on, and others that I source from Winzer, and they don't even begin to touch the dewalt bits.
There is also another spiral tipped drill that is now available to the public. I demo'd them, and they were pretty awesome, but a little bit harder to get and more $

Perfect timing. I have some small rivets I need to drill out and I was worried about the project on my DD spiraling out of control if I ended up with a bunch of broken bits.

link please.....

Fred,
I've seen those but always wondered what you use to sharpen them when they get dull.

These?

https://www.dewalt.com/products/accessories/metal-and-wood-drill-bits/metal-drill-bits/16-pc-pilot-point-drill-bit-set/dw1956

Seems like a cobalt center drill would be just as good...

https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-5000-3011-Cobalt-Degree-No-1-No-5/dp/B06Y5NM9ZY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29O78G6B8FJK8&dchild=1&keywords=ce nter+drill+cobalt&qid=1634826815&sr=8-4

Depends on what the metal is and how they harden it to be just as good.

Fred, I am a big Mopar guy but I have to tell you when you say POS and Caliber you are being redundant! ;)

As I was doing a clutch job and replacing the flywheel on my trusty 914 2.0 I go down to the flywheel. The Allen head bolts had two that were stripped, and needed to be drilled. I whipped out my trusty Sears bits I had for years and after 10 minutes it had a tiny dent in the bolt.

My 914 was my only car back then, so I borrowed my neighbors bike and rode to a nearby tool store. I bought some cobalt bits and was astonished when they ate into the bolts like it was made of wood. They made short work of the bolts, and I finished the clutch job.

I threw out the old Sears set and started collection good drill bits.

I had to replace some parts on the front clip of my daughter's car (someone backed into the car when it was parked) and drilling out a broken rusty bolt was required.

My existing drill bits (most of them good quality HSS) were a no-go for this task so I picked up a set of the DeWalt Cobalt drill bits: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-14-Piece-Cobalt-Twist-Drill-Bit/50413714

These worked REALLY well for that job, and the centering feature was quite helpful, but I did notice two drawbacks with additional use:

1. If you drill a smaller "pilot hole" and try to go up gradually in size to enlarge the hole, the lack of a stand point angle on the flutes for centering is a problem.

2. Because of the unique point geometry, they can't be effectively sharpened by any means I have available, and I have a "Drill Doctor" sharpening tool as well as a standard-type bench grinder.

Despite these drawbacks, I very highly recommend these for anyone needing to drill into or through hard metals.

And remember: Cutting oil is your friend.

A sharp drill bit is all that is required, bench grinder and a little practice.

your credit card

I've had really good luck with the drill doctor. I've done the bench grinder thing but the edge never seems to last as long as the drill doctor edge does.

You guys ARE talking about actually drilling down the shaft of a rusted in bolt right? Not just drilling off the bolt head.

With the pilot tip - I don't think these would be possibly sharped on the drill doctor (which I own) - nor on a bench grinder. You could sharpen the tip - but you can't get the edge sharpened below it.

Yes.

Sometimes drilling it large enough for a clearance hole and sometimes drilling for tapping and/or Helicoils.