Drywall help - texturing replacement panels + replacing corner bead close to shower.
 

I removed a wall and soffit in our bathroom. That meant replacing the drywall in a couple of places. So, I have a new panel on the ceiling and a section going down the wall. The old wall has orange peel texture and quite a few layers of paint. What's the best way to build up the new panels to be level with the old, then texture? Thanks to removing the soffit, I had to move the a/c vent over a foot in the room next to the bathroom. I used canned orange peel texture and it really turned out nice. Just not sure if the can is the best answer for the larger panels or not... and as I mentioned, I know I have to sand, tape and build them up before I worry about texture.

And... Seems the shower had been leaking for some time. This was not apparent until the demo. But, the corner bead was really rusty and had to be removed. Now I've got concrete board installed and need to replace the corner bead that will transition onto the board. Feathering out from the corner bead will get into the wet zone of the shower and will ultimately be covered by tile. Should I use Thinset instead of drywall mud? Use mud, then waterproof over it? We're using Schluter Kerdi membrane but may hit the edges with a roll on waterproofer as second layer of protection.

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I'm a big fan of using a wet sanding sponge, when it comes to sanding the mud.. Easy and no dust..

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Have you considered using bull-nose corner tile for that portion of the shower? If I am interpreting your remarks correctly, that may be a solution. I recently did a full renovation
( studs up) on a guest bathroom, ran into similar issues. I did all the grunt work, framing, etc - let the professional tile-setter do his thing. Corners were "goofy" had a difficult time fusing the new onto the old. Bull nose was the solution. Final product was deemed quite worthy by the Boss ( My bride) Hope this helps some.

Drywall work is the devil's work.

I did something similar a few years ago.

^^^ boy howdy!

I also used the canned texture, that turned out pretty good, but not perfect.

Where I could've done better is by removing material of the existing wall where the joint is.

I did mud in drywall tape and feathered it out, but couldn't really tell until painted.

At that point, I said "meh, looks decent...mostly".

No one has ever said a word. One of my buddies saw it before and after, he said "hmm, can't tell it was ever anything else".

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Knockdown is tough to blend and not have the repair noticeable. You can buy cans of texture spray at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards

https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/drywall/wall-ceiling-textures/homax-reg-water-based-knockdown-texture-spray/4065/p-1519716771355-c-8198.htm?tid=115880770009278399&ipos=3

I understand that this guy and his videos are supposed to be the shizzle for learning to work with drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbZdXox6mKHdcT2QdVT-goQ/search?query=drywall

I'm not sure if that makes him a demon or an angel that's trying to give us mortals an edge. I'm not hoping to with a golden trowel, but I hopefully won't lose my soul. (round-about Charlie Daniels reference there)

^ +1 that guy is great in sharing tips and techniques. I'm already a subscriber.

Don - Did you just load up the new area with mud? Using a roller? Trowel?

Yeah, I've watched enough YouTube videos that I know I need to sand down the paint/texture before taping. Worked well where I patched to old vent.

I've watched more hours of his work than I'm willing to admit to. He's clearly an expert at what he does.

There is not bullnose available for our tile. Will be using Schluter metal on the unfinished edge. It will need to stop short of the corner though. There will be about 1-2" between the metal and the edge of the corner.

I just mudded the gap first, then applied drywall tape and mudded/feathered it in.

Probably 12" wide area to cover the seam. I should've sanded down the existing wall, like you mentioned you'll do.

I did some practice spraying of the texture stuff in my back yard on scrap drywall. It helped.

If I was doing the project I'd probably sand back a foot or more into the texture feathering into the texture. This gives you room to fan the compound out so the butt joints don't show up. You'll know when you have the joint right when you can put your trowel across the tape joint and not have it wobble back and forth. What I do with butt joints is put down a tape coat, then apply a layer on each side of the tape, then apply a coat over the tape. I repeat this for about 2 more coats. When you're applying the outer coats, you need to roll your wrist to feather the outside edge. The more you feather, the less you'll sand.

For the shower and Duroc, I would Install the corner bead with mud, etc. When you install your tile with the Schlueter, presumably your shower doors will protect the drywall beyond.

Or, carry the Schlueter all the way to the corner. You will still need to install corner bead.

I don't like drywall that close to the Durarock. If necessary, we put a water proof membrane (always 2 layers behind Wonderboard or any wall board, cheap insurance) between drywall and wall board. Often we float our walls. Wall board will soak up water through grout joints, and that water will wick its way to drywall causing all sort of issues.

Here's the top view of what I am talking about.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1636438067.JPG

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