home remodel/repair question

[ramonesfreak]

see pic below. I had to remove the molding around this doorway because to the left of this door will be a new oven installed. in order for the door of the oven to open, the molding had to be removed.

Im wondering what would be the best way to fill this void and then finish so it looks clean and flush. The oven installer is a general contractor and was of the opinion that even using drywall tape would not be flush enough with the wall resulting in the oven door scraping it

could i fill up the void with spray foam and then use some type of spackle to smooth the surface followed by sanding/painting or will it crack? is there some type of caulk that can be sanded once dry?

[gregpark]

[drcoastline]

It will ultimaltey crack as the materials have different rates of expansion and contraction. Also, you wont have bone between the wood and what ever compiound you use. If you use plaster you will have less of a chance of cracking where the patch material mtes to the esiting plaster.

Is there still a door hanging or is just an opening?

[drcoastline]

Also how about thinner trim? Can you rip down a piece to say 1/8" thickness and retrim?

[ramonesfreak]

No door hanging, Just an old fashion Pela accordion door. It’s just an entrance way into a laundry room that was added on years ago

I cant use thinner trim apparently, at least that’s what the installer said. Of course if I had the oven here I would know but I’m trying to figure this out before we buy the oven

Scenario is that we have a drop in stove top installed in custom cabinets. Wife wants to rip the drop in stove top and the cabinet it rests in and replace with an oven and unless we redo all the cabinets there’s no way to install this new oven over to the left even a fraction of an inch…if we could, I would have just left the molding alone

Of course we have a brand new in-wall oven but wife wants two ovens because she bakes a lot. ??????????

[Crowbob]

If there’s enough space, I’d think about fabricating an ‘L’ channel out of stainless steel to cover the entire height of the wall floor to ceiling. Paint the wall before installation to compliment the color of the oven. 1/8” thick would be plenty thick.

[ramonesfreak]

You suggestIng I fill the void with this or use as a finishing layer that I paint on?

Originally Posted by gregpark

[gregpark]

The elastomeric patching compound pictured above will not crack. Force it in with a wide blade putty knife and re apply the next day. Sand with a block

[ramonesfreak]

I might have to just get the oven installed first, and then see how much room, if any, I have to work with

[ramonesfreak]

Originally Posted by gregpark

The elastomeric patching compound pictured above will not crack. Force it in with a wide blade putty knife and re apply the next day. Sand with a block

Do you think I could fill the void up with spray foam first and then apply the compound? Otherwise I’ll be there for a month trying to not have any air spaces

[Crowbob]

You could go with the foam substrate, elasto on top. If it does crack eventually, then go with the SS.

[gregpark]

Naw, that patching compounds works well to fill voids. Don't try to make it perfect on your first application. It dries firm overnight and then re apply because it will shrink down a bit. It sands nicely and will be a seamless transition.

[gregpark]

It won't crack because it's elastomeric

[ramonesfreak]

Originally Posted by gregpark

Naw, that patching compounds works well to fill voids. Don't try to make it perfect on your first application. It dries firm overnight and then re apply because it will shrink down a bit. It sands nicely and will be a seamless transition.

Have you experienced sanding it? I’m reading reviews on Amazon and some people said it can’t be sanded and says so on the container in small print

[drcoastline]

Originally Posted by ramonesfreak

No door hanging, Just an old fashion Pela accordion door. It’s just an entrance way into a laundry room that was added on years ago

I cant use thinner trim apparently, at least that’s what the installer said. Of course if I had the oven here I would know but I’m trying to figure this out before we buy the oven

Scenario is that we have a drop in stove top installed in custom cabinets. Wife wants to rip the drop in stove top and the cabinet it rests in and replace with an oven and unless we redo all the cabinets there’s no way to install this new oven over to the left even a fraction of an inch…if we could, I would have just left the molding alone

Of course we have a brand new in-wall oven but wife wants two ovens because she bakes a lot. ??????????

So if no door why not just remove all the trim and make it an arch?

[gregpark]

Originally Posted by ramonesfreak

Have you experienced sanding it? I’m reading reviews on Amazon and some people said it can’t be sanded and says so on the container in small print

I've sanded it, it loads the paper so it might take a couple sheets of sand paper. Your second fill will be close to what you want so you're just fine tuning it by sanding. If your wall is textured you'll have to match the texturing and don't need to bother sanding

[Tobra]

Use the sanding screen stuff and it will not load up as bad.

I might cut a long skinny piece of sheet rock to fill that in

[gregpark]

I heard you can get it hit with a heat gun and scrape it flat with a razor blade but I haven't needed to try this

[ramonesfreak]

Originally Posted by drcoastline

So if no door why not just remove all the trim and make it an arch?

Not sure I understand. I am taking all the molding off around this doorway/entrance way. Problem is this gap that’s under the trim that I have to deal with now.

I just want to make it look like there was never any trim around the entrance way to begin with.

[look 171]

Everything joint will crack over time as the lumber will expand and contract at a different rate. Can the door jamb be removed completely if the accordion door isn't being used? Or, if you like a little more work, remove the jamb, drywall around the corner, done.

If the door is necessary, Reinstall the head jamb to support the door, and cut the width 1/4" short on both side, caulk, paint and finish. Heck, you might be able to do that to all three sides, just trim the jamb 1/4" short on both side to not have the void between jamb and drywall.