Changing spark plugs on my Tacoma. Almost pooped myself.
 

I hate this project. HATE!

They are easy enough to to reach with standard tools. Changing a 911SC plugs readied me for most jobs. (The secret is locking socket/ratchet extensions)..

First plug came out easy. If anything it was under torqued to begin with. The second plug I removed barely budged. My heart rate elevated as I envisioned a stripped plug. It was so hard to twist. I called my Toyota mechanic buddy and he Said they rarely strip out. And it it did, he can fix it easy. He said to back it back in, change the rest and leave that one to him. I got a longer wrench and tightened it down. I felt it loosen up. Like some carbon freed up or something. Hmmm. I reversed the ratchet, whispered a prayer and HAIL MARY’D!! It. It loosened and came loose. More importantly, the new plug spun in easy a snugged down.

My truck specs out a plug change at 35,000 miles. This wasn’t my first rodeo. I’ve done it many times. I hate this project. Next time I’m letting my bud do it. But he’s like a q.5 hour drive away. Most honest mechanic I know. He knows I love him. :)

I can’t imagine changing out neglected plugs way past their expiration date. I let mine go 50k. It gave me a fright.

Glad you got it out without much drama. I often wonder if people put anti-seize compound on the thread. Ihave never done it.

I did this time. Right or wrong. The Toyota parts guy said the techs do.

My Tacoma has 425,000 miles so I have changed plugs a bunch.Not a bad job. Try changing valve cover gaskets. Driver side is involved.

Shiver!

I’ve done the job 5x maybe. This was the only time I experienced a tight removal.

What happens next time Depends on how long you wait.

My 14 F150 has 158K on the clock. I changed the plugs at 100K and was going to change them again at 200K.

I’ve never put any anti sieze on spark plugs, but I’ve been tempted to put the thinnest coat on as a halfhearted attempt.

Edit, on my 01 F150, every time I changed the plugs, I was on pins and needles, because I thought the infamous spark plug issue was going to rear its ugly head and was going to break.

I don't think you have the glass spark plugs if a 2001.

If you did, you woulda busted a few.

I think you’re right, but I still worried about it.
After 100,000 miles, they were not the easiest to swap out, not to mention what I thought was a pain in the butt to get to.

Oh, it's just rude, even for a world class mechanic like me that has done at least a half dozen F150 spark plug changes in his career. My memory fades with time. Perhaps up to seven or eight.

It's just not fun for an old man to contort to that degree.

Edit: The F250 is the real stinker now that I think back. Stand on a stool to reach.

My 2016 F150 with the 3.5 EB engine is a walk in the park. Easy to reach. It seems the toughest part is that they keep changing the recommended gap.

I do use a thin coat of anti seize, they say the plugs already have a coating but better safe than sorry.

My 14 F150 5.0 Is a piece of cake to change the plugs. I should do it more often.

Magnetic 911 spark plug socket with 42 years of daily use. Had to grind down the larger one for one application (maybe #6 on one model 911T). Anyway good set up that worked great. Just noticed it’s a combination of Mac handle, Craftsman extension, Snap-on swivel and unknown socket (maybe Champion).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1642251456.jpg

badass

i had to tape gaffers tape around my extension for some "grip". for my gloved fingers. it worked. thankfully the Tacoma is a straight shot. no elbows needed.

The Tesla will be easier.

^ Good stuff ^ But the Tacoma has a much easier to replace battery, so...

That’s what I would do when working on the 911. Sometimes the factory spark plug tool as well. I also like that they’ve come out with a spark plug socket with a built-in universal and extensions of various lengths.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1642268187.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1642268187.jpg

When torquing spark plugs, you can feel the washer crushing. When you feel it is finished crushing, you are roughly at the correct torque value. Anti-seize is your friend.

I use the copper grease anti seize. It says for spark plugs right on the can.

From that...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1642267138.JPG

The only reason not to use anti-seize has to do with proper ground which was never an issue in the old days when heads were cast iron. Porsche was actually the first manufacturer, (if memory serves), to specify NOT to use it on plugs due to grounding issues.

I don’t usually use it but I try to get everything as clean as possible, (a good steam clean if needed before removing plugs), and put a drop of oil on threads before installing. It’s all about avoiding corrosion. And don’t over tighten, just nice and snug.

IIRC anti-seize on the threads would often get into the cylinders (often from slop application over the exposed edge) and end up neutering the catalyzing effects of the cat-converter.

One of the reasons that the sparkplug manufacturers plate the threads. (effective anti-seize)

The anti-seize I use is conductive. I use only a tiny bit and I put it in a place that ensures it will not get into the cylinder. And yes, lubing fastener threads can result in over-tightening, but I stop turning spark plugs when I feel the crush washer finish crushing. I do not have experience with spark plugs that lack the crush washer.

I hadn’t thought about the over-tightening because of lube aspect it that’s legit. If only everyone knew how to properly tighten fasteners, what a better world it would be. :)

When any threaded object stops turning, (the noticeable *stop*), you are beginning to stretch the threads. Which is alright to an extent but that extent depends on the size/strength of the bolt or nut and application. Crush washers change the equation slightly but not much.

A lot of people have no “touch” for this, unfortunately.

Of course it's legit. Simple physics there.

Oh, and supe, do you think that the metal threads never touch when lubed? (and need electrically conductive lube)

This came up on my Facebook feed today and I thought of this thread…

My then 8 year old son changing the left rear spark plug on my wife’s Tribeca… my hands wouldn’t fit in there…

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1642808059.jpg

I have about 200,000 kms on the plugs in my Tundra so they are due to be changed again. I’m 40,000 over on the plug change in my WRX and I plan to recruit my now 11 year old son to help with that one…

my greatest moment was changing the plugs on my wife Subaru.

getting that done was so epic. I had two good friends come over, with beer. they peeked in and asked, "wait, do we need to lift the motor?!!" I said, I hope not.

there is a distinct movement with the parts to get them out. I called it a "pirouette". it was a spin and bend..haha.

Cliff, You need to try out your skills changing 981 Cayman plugs. 3/4" threads that always come out crusty and fight you the whole way, all the while the catalytic converter shielding is slicing your wrists. One of those jobs you can either see it or feel it but not both at the same time. ;)

thanks Dan. now I know what tonight's nightmare theme will be!! YIKES

If it doesn't crack loose easily, turn it in until it softens up slightly.
-The bolt compresses instead of stretching.
-The loosen side is usually more stripped on the hex.

Rock back and forth to break up the carbon crown on plugs.

don't forget to change your oil
after every fill-up
can't be too careful

I've never really had a problem removing & installing spark plugs and I don't use anti seize. Maybe it's the car I've owned? (Mostly European)

First use a shop vac to get rid of any dirt or dust around the spark plug before you start and I wont even attempt to remove the spark plugs from a warm engine. Someone may disagree with that but it's something my father taught me long ago. The new plugs threads should be checked for nicks and make sure the threads in the spark plug holes are clean. Always use a torque wrench to install them.

A long time ago I had a Fiat 500 and one of the spark plugs popped out on its own as I was driving along. This happened just after I had bought the car so maybe the PO didn't tighten it properly. The threads weren't damaged and there were no problems reinstalling the spark plug.

- As a side note: My ex wife said this to my eldest daughter recently - "It's not fair that your father can work on his own cars. The rest of us have to pay someone else to do it." - She said this just after I had spent the afternoon fixing my daughters car! :confused:

how do you think an pro shop does it?. they would lose money if they had to cool a motor overnight before a plug change. i cant imagine they have the luxury of time. but yea..i would if i could. i cooled mine about 3 hours while i worked some and ate lunch.

i have until July to decide if i am buying a new truck or not. i'm on the fence.

I don't know how a pro shop does it. Also I only adjust valves when an engine is cold. A pro shop would also do that with a warm engine.