Using trickle charger for parasitic draw
 

Is it safe/wise/smart to install a trickle charger on car with a parasitic draw?

My 2010 Cayenne has a fast slow draw. I am almost certain it's the driver door actuator. Still have to pull fuses with an ammeter attached but everything points to the actuator. Inexpensive part but pretty involved to replace and don't see having time to do it for weeks.

Just put a new battery in the truck yesterday after hard starting morphed from annoyance to real problem. Truck started amazingly. Found that the battery in it is 1 year old. Tried to start the truck today and again took several key turns to start. Charger on remote terminals for 2 hours with an ancient Schumacher, started perfectly.

So can I put a 3A trickle on it for overnight?

Any trickle chargers that you swear by? Schumacher has a few nice ones.

That is a pretty fast drop.

All said, I would be inclined to use the charger.

Only questions are 1) is it insured? 2) will it kill anyone if it burns.

A trickle charger probably won’t give enough amps for a fire. Big chargers do. My in-laws have with this. It was BAD.

It is fully insured but I don't think insurance would cover a fire by charger. But a 3A charger probably wouldn't cause a fire.

I just took the front cover off the seat base (battery is under the driver seat) and a disconnect switch for the negative terminal is very accessible. Going that route I think to see how it works.

All my farm equipment, mowers and tractors, are on trickle chargers...Battery Tender has some good options.

I even keep spare large batteries on a rotating charge for dump trailers, etc. The last thing I want is to not be able to do work because of a faulty battery. I'd have to go look, but I think it is an old Craftsman TC.

Again, I have many from various manufactures...never an issue.

I don't see how this would be a problem. At rest, the 'system' should be at 12.5-13.0 VDC. A trickle charger will likely cycle between that and, lay, 14 VDC. And it will be doing almost nothing when the system is holding at 12.5-13.0. I guess I am saying that your system is supposed to have a certain amount of voltage and a TC simply achieves that.

But yeah, disconnecting the battery should prevent the overnight draw problem.

Nice video on parasitic draw here...it taught me how to test fuses without pulling them.. D-OH! So simple.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRcj1fQcWwU

Interesting method, especially for newer cars.

I use a clamp-on ammeter(needs to be rated for DC, most are AC) and clamp it around the wires (easier on old cars and equipment)

Isn't the trickle charger like tylenol dulling cronic pain rather than finding out if the body is telling you something is wrong?

It was covered. Multi years to clean up. LARGE claim.

I use a CTEK on my 911. I wouldn't recommend the disconnect.

I’ve got a slow drawdown on my 330. I keep a trickle charger on all the time, as I seldom drive it. I’ve tried to narrow it down, but electrical problems are not my forte.

the fuse voltage drop test is quick and easy- done via probing the tiny holes either side of the fuse - with the meter.
there are milli to amp conversion tables available online.

It is VERY effective. Not always easy or quick.

Sometimes, yes.

Most chargers these days will shut off at a certain voltage, so I see no problem putting one on your truck.

What do you think of this technique Bob?

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Shaun, Yuasa makes excellent trickle chargers; I've been using them for more than 20 years (starting with the model prior to the one in my link - have 5 of the linked ones as well) - never had one stop working or exhibit any sort of problem.

It is only 1amp, however, not 3 like you mentioned you might want.

Here it is in this Amazon link.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K5XF1VC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks Ron, just checked and they make a 3A too.

Yuasa YUA3AMPCH 12V 3-Amp Battery Charger 50 State Compliant