So get it replaced and make life easy on yourself.

You said it's bead board? Then sanding the face will wreck the bead detail right? And you bought it from home depot? This is typical of home depot, their bin had newer and older shipments of the product. The knife set up for the shaper changed slightly for the T and G between batches and you got some of each. I'd return it all, including the busted up crap you yank off the wall. I don't buy milled products from that place because of stuff like this. I buy directly from a molding shop that checks consistency and puts a nicer coat of primer on too. Pricing is close to HD

It is bead board, but we are putting the flat side out. A lot of the house is like this. I thought it was shiplap, but eventually found out that it was the same TnG as the floors. We are essentially trying to replicate the look.

I'd love to put good stuff up. The problem for me is finding the good stuff. I'm sure someone in Houston has it, but finding it and getting it here is the hard part.

When I install the thin "bead board" product, I first nail on 3/8ths plywood, and then glue (panel adhesive) and nail the BB to that, You should come out with about a 3/4" wall thickness which a proper panel cap molding is set up to cover perfectly. You can use 1/2" ply as well, you just need to modify the panel cap a bit or use an alternative. This is even a better system. MDF works OK, but not always recommended in bathrooms. This might be a problem in TX. Plywood is your friend and all you need is "shop" grade.

I don't use screws on the ply in case it will come back off someday due to change in tastes. The whole 3/4 system will peel off the wall easily. Well, as easily as the nails allow.

Sorry Steve, but it looks like you should start over. Here's the thing, you only have to finish behind where you can't get to, like a toilet and pedestal sink. The rest can be done after the bathroom fixtures and cabinets have been installed. And it's not too hard to paint behind these things if you know the tricks.

Edit: You mentioned 5 foot high wainscot and 12' lengths. That's not a good yield. 4' high walls and 12 foot lengths is zero waste. Whatever you do, get the supplier to cut your rough lengths and stack it in your car.

Cupping may occur over time or a season of two so you are back to sq one.

This is a corner of the kitchen.

We're mostly trying to replicate the look, but only going part way up the wall like wainscot (versus floor to ceiling), but horizontal.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1643151377.jpg

So, horizontal on the walls, and flat and smooth-ish, no beading.

I do like your idea of plywood with thin board over the top, but we don't want beaded, and I don't know that we could get 3" wide boards 1/4" thick to apply to thin plywood. That would be much quicker and easier. Is it possible to get that? Or hell, 1/4" plywood and 1/2" thick boards that aren't full of knots.

You didn't need to buy bead board to do that. You need to be going to a real lumber yard with your ideas. You can put a small chamfer on each board and then just butt them. No need for shiplap although that would be a nice way to do it.

One more thing, since you are going horizontal and have vertical stud nailing, you don't need plywood, that just helps even things out a bit.

To do this on an economy scale, I might have bought fence boards and staggered joints. A good scarf joint is hard to see.

I think you are tying to do this with far too few tools. At least you have a miter saw?

BTW, that 3-way molding joint at the top in the pic is fun. Not.

Yep, 12" sliding Dewalt Miter saw.

The walls of most of the rooms that aren't TnG are vertical studs on 24-ish" spacing with solid shiplap from 4-5' down and then every other shiplap board for the top half which makes this more of a pain in the rear. And now the shiplap has 5/8" drywall on top of it.

This is a partial view of one of the walls. The bottom was a single board, nearly 12" wide as a "baseboard." Drywall sat on top of that board and was nailed to the shiplap. The bottom half of the wall (except where the baseboard was) was solid shiplap. The top half of the wall was every other board-ish shiplap.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1643152976.JPG

And the wife wants to get rid of the 1/4 round molding. I think I've tried to do one of those joints before. Yeah, huge pain.

If you get rid of the quarter round molding in the kitchen you'll be replacing it with another Molding then. There's a reason for that molding being there. I'm in the middle of doing a horizontal wall job now with no molding. Much cleaner look but it would be way faster to cut those long awkward boards within a half inch and trim it out. Which is what they did in your kitchen, I'll bet a Guinness on it

Can you say scribe? Like friggen crown molding, I hated it but I did a sh-load of it. That and base. Nothing wears a man out more than a day of running base.

I'm much happier with my tools in lockers and not the truck. I did my 50 years.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1643155308.jpg

This is a room of my horizontal wall/ceiling project going on. I'm a masochist. I dropped the Cedars and let them sit a year to peck up. Milled it on the band mill and stacked it in the drying shed for a half year. Wide boards, not so straight after drying. Chalk line and free hand through the table saw with a 2° under cut. To install I scribe, bevel square, whatever it takes. Finished with two heavy coats of Shellac. The process is slow as molasses. I could have bought lumber but no. My wife thinks I'm crazy and I'm starting to agree.

Nice work, Greg. I know how much effort that takes.

There are some interesting things I have done like wrapping an exposed beam, actually a huge hip rafter that was exposed and the ceiling had sagged a little. Talk about scribing and undercutting, BTDT. I did 45's on the outside corners.

That was when biscuit cutters were the thing.

Sorry about the tool centric option earlier today. Here's another possible option then. Not sure how many walls you are doing, but could you lay the boards out on the floor perhaps, dry fit them, and segregate what you would hope is only two different profiled batches? That way, one batch goes on one wall, the other batch on another. The differences wouldn't matter then.

Jeez Greg. That's just fantastic. I wish I had your patience. And your creativity.

I’m a little confused on what the face is supposed to look like, but I’ve done “shiplap” two different ways. One, using 1 x 6 spaced about a nickel apart. Second, using nickel gap trim. See the profiles below.

As mentioned, you can get your material cut to length at store for easy transport home.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1643159383.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1643159383.jpg

45 corners wrap on a long beam? Lots of clamps! built it on the floor then hoisted after the glue set? must have been stain grade or you would have lapped and bondo'd right?
And I know what you mean about base and crown. Back and neck killers. I've been doing both for 50 years too. Crown! cut upside down and backwards, cope the inside corners, radio off and don't talk to me right now or I'll F it up!

Thanks but it's more like bull headed stubborness

Fantastic!

It's basically supposed to look like a bunch of boards butted up against each other. No gap, no design, no V groove or anything else, just a bunch of boards butted right up against each other. Only the occasional slight line and maybe some wood grain. Maybe like that one board once installed.

Ok I re read. So the board thickness is consistent and it's the tongue and groove that's occasionally misaligned? You could just rip the tongues off of the offending boards. The boards won't bow out with a fastener every 2 feet. Not enough to be a big deal anyway.