The startup capacitor works in conjuction with a centrifugal switch. The switch powers the capacitor, which feeds secondary windings that as you say, gives the motor the punch to get going. The motor pretty quickly reaches operating speed, at which point the centrifugal switch cuts power when a pair of weights fling outward, pushing a disc against the switch, opening the contacts at which point the motor sort of cruises along until the main switch is powered off.

If the centrifugal start switch is bad, then the motor struggles to get up to speed, and may burn up because only the primary windings are getting power. You would hear a weird noise though, most likely.

The only reason that I know this is I was looking for this type of switch to help a buddy repair his shave ice machines. I couldn't find the parts anywhere so I ended up soldering and filing, basically making new contacts for all 3 machines. These things have made literally hundreds of thousands of shave ice cups, and the margin on these things is unbelievable.

Now that I think about it, your guy should have changed the centrifugal switch while he was in there. It's like changing the oil thermostat and o-ring while the engine is out on your 911SC to change fuel lines.

Been there, done that, got the "T" shirt. It is worth fixing but not easy. Flip the fridge and pull the compressor. Carefully cut the copper pipes to the compressor, use a copper tube cutter, need to keep them round. Remove the compressor and go to the internet and buy a new compressor and a schrader valve. Install the new compressor and braze in the copper lines with the shrader valve on the low side line. Have a fire extinguisher and a fire blanket available as the refrigerant oil will flame. The brazing doesn't need to be pretty, just functional. Pump down the system and add the R134A- you'll be surprised how little you need.

Done this twice, both fridge's are now about 10 years out and working great.

Charles

I think I found the problem! :rolleyes:

Reading the online parts seller's web sites and following that advice we emptied the freezer, and put everything in a large ice chest for temporary safekeeping.

I pulled the plug, and whipped out my fancy tools, a Phillips screwdriver and a 1/4 inch nut driver. It is pretty easy to get the ice maker off, just three screws and unplug the wires. Lift and it is off. Four 1/4 inch head screws and then the light bulb removal. Wiggle and cuss, (that always helps) and the entire back panel leans out from the top, and then swing to the side.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646505400.jpg

I think I see the problem. Just a bit of frosted up evaporator coils. Out comes the heat gun set on the lowest heat setting and melt some ice. Lots of it came off in hunks and did not have to go down the drain.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1646505587.jpg

Then I got to the real culprit. The defrost heater. It is kinda broken and fried. The clips that hold it in place have rusted off so it just fell down and I have no way to know if the sagging from the clips caused it to break, or if it fried first. It really does not matter. The coils are solid, with a little rust from the clip on both ends. I have a new heater on order and it is supposed to be in Tuesday.

So I put the back panel back on, hung the ice maker and hooked it up. It is plugged in, and getting cold. Likely I will have some defrosting to do before I can install the new heater. We will have a fridge that is cold, and working freezer until the heater comes in. I can have a cold beer and live will be good.

So around $100 bucks plus sales tax and a bit of tinkering it will be good for many years more.

OK, just to finish a thread no one but me really cars about......

I ordered a replacement defrost heater and it finally arrived at my favorite old time appliance store. An old family owned store that has been in business for many decades. The Formica countertop is worn down to the base backing material in places. They have old school parts manuals that go way back. A computer system from the 80s, green text on a 14 inch monitor. They did have a laptop to connect to the internet, so not all old tech.

Anyway, $104 later it is a 20 minute project to empty the freezer, remove the ice maker to get it out of the way, removed the light bulb and 4 screws to unbolt the back panel, unplug the connections for the defrost fan, and have access to the evaporator coils. Snap the heater in place, plug in the two wires, and reassemble. Ta Da!

It sure beats paying several grand for a new fridge that will not last but a few years, and way way better than a new 10 grand fridge that is quality.

The compressor was just a little low on refrigerant at first, and that is taken care of as well, but that was not the real problem.

Now I have to have Mrs, Carrera supervise the placement of the food we store in the freezer. I am not competent to do that evidently. She "lets" me fix things, and mow the yard and one per week I get to take the trash out. ;)

Mind if I ask what brand refer you fixed, Glen?

Maytag. Model MTB2456AE.

Just a simple fridge from 24 years ago we purchased from a local appliance store. No computers, no water filters for the ice maker, just cold air where we want it.

very similar to my box that iced up and would not blow cold air thru the ice blocking the channel

my thermostat wires failed not the heater but result is the same no heat excess ice

Maytag amana same unit different trim and logo's

Whirlpool Corporation owns the Jenn-Air, Maytag, Amana, Roper, and KitchenAid brands.

I love it when you fix somthing that everyone else ether repairs it with the check book or replaces it.
Good satisfying work. Wife happy and cold beer!

Those are the two imports parts. It is wonderful to take a beer from the fridge and see it cover up with condensation from the cold temps. I can't get my favorite Erdinger Dunkle right now, so I got another German Dunkle and will enjoy one of those a little later.

Defrost heater and timer were number 4 on my list from post #11.
Glad you got it done.