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Tile backsplash caulk question
I’m doing a tile backsplash tomorrow with 3x6 subway tiles. I’m planning on using 1/16” spacers
My question is this…I noticed some online articles about this saying to keep a 1/8” gap at the bottom where bottom row of tiles meets counter top to allow enough of a caulk bead Can anyone confirm this? Seems logical to me but I’ve never tiled anything so I’m not sure Would there be any reason to also keep a 1/8” space where the tile meets the adjoining wall (90 deg angle)? I’m still not sure if this area should be caulked or grouted as I see conflicting recommendations. As a general rule I’m reading that where tile meets a non-tile surface or different plane, it should be caulked and not grouted and obviously where it meets the counter Sound right? |
Caulk the corner(s) and caulk the countertop to tile. You can get caulk that matches the grout.
I usually use put cardboard on the countertop and start the tile on top of the cardboard. When we pull it out there is a small gap. I would keep all the gaps similar, in your case 1/16th. |
Make sure the grout caulk is flexible or you’ll be fixing it three months down the road.
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Keep it the same like Dad911 said. We like Mapei products such as this https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Keracaulk-S-10-5-oz-Charcoal-Sanded-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/1000063685
1/16 grout joint will need a none sanded grout so you need to buy the caulk to match. Most brands will have have both sand and non sanded caulking with exact grout color match. |
This was send to me by my guys couple days ago. No grout yet, still freshly set. I think they just grouted it today or maybe finish tomorrow. Noticed the gaps on the counter, its the same as the grout joints. Will get filled with flexible color matching silicone caulking. I will see that job after my bike ride tomorrow and hopefully collect my moo-la. Damn job lasted over 8 months. Shortage of materials. Good luck and show us some pics of your handy work will ya.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648280252.jpg
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Weird, can't up load pic for you?
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The caulk is color matched to the grout and made by the same company. Don’t recall what it’s made of until I go pick up the tiles etc in a few hours from the tile store. Ordered everything last Saturday pick up today.
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Yes. Caulk where it meets the counter to account for counter movement (so it doesn't crack) and to allow changing countertops/cabinets without being invasive.
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I made the mistake of not spacing the tiles away from the counter when I installed my backsplash. (roookieeeee!)
It turned out fine because I spent an inordinate amount of time making sure that the gap was good and sealed (and not a big effing mess). It would have been so much easier if I'da had that 1/16 or so gap to use to seal the corner. I have to watch carefully to make sure the caulk is still intact, especially behind the faucet area; hopefully the caulk in the color I need is still available in case I need to do touch up. |
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It looks like this.
It's been done now for a few years (5?) and it's holding up really well, but there was lots of extra effort required to make sure the seam between the counter and the backsplash was watertight. I had to make sure that I got enough product in the seam to waterproof it, but not let the squeezeout take over and make a friggin' mess. I cut a very tiny opening in the caulk tube, and just did a very small amount at a time, pushing very hard to make sure it filled what little gap there was Then I sealed everything real good after a few months, and I reseal every year or so. It would have been a lot easier with even a 1/16" spacer between the 'splash and the counter. (edit, those are crumbs and stuff in the caulk, not bubbles. The camera picks stuff up the eye can't see!) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648329830.jpg |
It looks great. That may have been sanded caulking with all the tiny lumps? Next time, get none sand caulking. For smaller gaps, if there's no caulking available, we use Polyseamseal to keep it water tight. No mess, cleans up with a wet sponge but you must not allow it to dry before wipe up. It will get into the tiniest cracks and its flexible. In your application, almond or beige will be it, once it dries, it will be part of the counter or tile, seamless.
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Yeah, now that you mention it it may be sanded caulk. Gawd, there are so many variables. So many products.
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I just wrote about 4 paragraphs regarding my suffering and tragedies experienced during this project but I deleted by accident. Probably for the best
In the end, it came out very nice except maybe 2 tiles with a bit more lippage than I wanted but too late now. I learned a lot, but- for nothing as I will never agree to do a tile job again http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1649778663.jpg |
btw, I had not considered how thick and heavy the adhesive is to spread. I have 2 very bad shoulders and tried for about 30 seconds. Ultimately, I had to butter the back of every tile individually. Between that and struggling to get a good cut with my wet saw without chipping the corners, this job took 5 days - 22 sq feet only - not including the other 3 days it took to remove old tile and repair the wall prior to new tile
:-( |
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Looks like your project came out nicely. |
Thanks
It was one of those jobs were there is a definite technique required to do it right. I did not get comfortable with any of the techniques needed until I was about 2/3 of the way done. So, you start looking at the earlier tiles you set and seeing how they could have been set better but an hour later its too late, same with grout, same with caulk, same with cutting with a wet saw, dremel, or breaker..... I watched probably a hundred youtube videos that made it look so easier....NO WAY is it easy |
Looks good.
Don’t sweat the lippage. |
Tile looks nice.
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