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As we all agree, that one solution only solves half the problem, you want to be able fully operate it from both locations. |
You are correct in your thinking of how it's supposed to work.
Fault sounds like some sort of short in the line. I've had one where both switches had to be just right in order to work. |
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100 meter roll is 130 bucks or so for 1.5mm copper . Which is fine for lighting 2.5 is more expensive Either way. The both off for off setup wont save much wire. For much annoyance qnd little useful functionality |
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I will take a bright light and see if either toggle in embossed with ON or OFF, and might even pull the plate an peer inside to see what back magic is contained within. (I know, I know, don't let the smoke out...I'll be sure to close the 'smoke valve' in the electrical panel first). |
Or put in a smartswitch and say 'Hey Google turn on the Hallway Light'
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Use your volt ohm meter to verify both switches and wire continuity
I just went through a 3 way system, next door.
First you need to determine which side supplies the circuit, (always hot and consistent nutral/ground). Then run a continuity check, to verify no shorts of opens. Bench test your switches, not all of them have black "commons", or they may not be in the same places on both switches. This can get confusing and i think this is one of the major sources of 3 way inconsistencies. chris, |
"Only God and electricians can make light"
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I just remodeled my kitchen and wanted to control the "stadium lighting" from three locations. Turns out there's such a thing as four-way switches; didn't know that! You need four-way switches in the middle of the circuit bookended by three-way switches. I was heartily impressed with myself when I'd finished and found it worked like a charm. I did end up buying a crap-ton of 14-3 wire though.
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see http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/1119152-3-way-light-switch-confusion.html#post11695769 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652962077.jpg |
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