Thanks for the update, Rocket.

Can you share what brand fixture those are and cost, if that's not being too nosey?

If that comes with packaging and a label, would like to see that too.

Also, are the LED's replaceable? That's standard on all high end fixtures, FWIW.

Regarding connections - there are different methods for sure. I've tried quite a few and elected to go with my wire nut method because it was the easiest and I also liked being able to remove the connection easier when I wanted to change fixtures and add more cable.

I use a small plastic caddy that has 5 different size wire nuts, a can of dielectric grease, a tube of dielectric grease, couple wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, PVC pipe cutter (kwickcut), a small extension mirror (for seeing path light lamps under hats), a voltage meter, and some other stuff.

When I first started out I was trained to use solder and still have a solder pot but just thought it was too much hassle for the return in value.

I also still have a couple big bags of connectors and crimps - the ones like tubes filled with gel stuff.

Electricity is a little tricky. A wire can be 3/4 chopped though but it will still OHM the same continuity with the meter which only uses low voltage. That fails when it's under load pulling real amps. The restriction or bad connection become the new load/resistance and heats up.

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Update as requested

First photo is the underground connector kit. Must say that it makes a very satisfying connection. The allen screws do the trick. I am told the connection is good for up to 12ga wire. I put three of my lights into the one end, no issue.

Second pic is box of the fixture. They are made in Cave Creek, AZ just up the road from me. Last two pics are of the fixture on its side an with one in place in my fountain. I like the minimal design. At night all you see is a source, the fixture is so small and nearly same color as the gravel.

In talking with the electrical guy, his comment on the wire nut with dielectric grease particularly when installed in gravel like I am, the gravel moves and breaks the bond of the grease in the wire nut.

I now have this wired temporarily to be sure all works. Will let it cycle through 2 or 3 days and assuming all is good, bury it all.

Thanks Baz for the help. Has been good to work through the issues.

Oh, sorry. The fixture cost is $47.25, not $350 like some of the larger landscape fixtures. The connectors were $34 for 10. So $3.50 or so each.

That makes me wonder if there's a market for a "civillian" version of a time-domain reflectometer (TDR). I know we used some very expensive ones to check striplines/cables for weapon components. Basically every impedance mismatch in a circuit will "bounce" a signal back - and in NW detonators we cared very very much about impedance.

Ours (many tens of kilobux) weren't from Fluke or the local big box store, that's for sure, but with today's tech you'd imagine one could get a 85% quality one at a doable price. Look at what's advanced in the thermal imaging in the last few decades - that tech used to be expensive voodoo and now you can get one that plugs into your iPhone.

Thanks for getting back to me with that info, Rocketman....greatly appreciated!

First off, I know this company well. They offer a product line through my wholesale supply house here, so are very well known. If you can work with them going forward, you'll be fine. Most people don't have access to such a resource.

That said, I'm always happy to offer my take on anything.

That does look like a very ergonomic fixture as well as very minimalist, so a great choice for your application there.

Low voltage landscape lighting can be a lot of fun once you get your system in place. Easy to re-configure and relatively inexpensive if you do your due diligence.

I have used the high end fixtures - the ones with the lifetime warranty. They are OK but there are others for less $ that also work well. A lot of people don't think of using plastic/PVC fixtures but if you are looking for something corrosion resistant they are great. I have quite a few of those here as well as powder-coated aluminum.

Please keep us posted as appropriate, brother!

Will do. Right now the circuit came on like it is supposed to. I will monitor one more day then bury it.

If you use Brilliance LED and have issues, let me know. I will roll up the hill and talk to them. And as an added bonus a great butcher across the street. Need to pause for a good track.

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Excellent - thanks, Rocket.

I'm not sure if I have ever bought their products. I think their gig was lifetime warranty back when LEDs first started making some noise. To me they were still too expensive.

I got to thinking though about the PVC uplights by Orbit I had mentioned and went ahead and ordered a dozen just to have some as spares here:

FG1021-BK Orbit Industries FG1021-BK - MR16 Fiberglass Spotlight with Hood - Black
12 $23.00 $276.00

Free 7 day shipping.

The bulbs they send are halogens so I will have to buy the LEDs but I already have plenty in my stash plus some colored ones I like to use in certain applications here.

For your listening pleasure:

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5 days later my shipment arrives.

I think they have improved the injection material for these. They feel better than the last ones I got quite a few years ago.

They still include the halogen MR16 bulb, so I will swap it out with an LED. No biggie.

Note the bulbs can be replaced very easily and with the non-metal material you don't have to worry about corrosion.

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Picked up another batch of MR16 LED's from Walmart the other day.

~$8 for a 3 pack. I've been using these from Walmart for a few years and they have performed flawless for me.

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These and the dozen Orbits are just for inventory, for now. I have no idea where this inflation is going so wanted to be a little proactive on a few items I know I'll be using at some point.

Accidentally got the wrong ones I will take back (far left side).