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But when using the tool, it would slip off, pull out of the inner nut while removing or installing and just fell short on the actual service side. There are only two wheels that still have these, LR / RF - go figure. I don't know why but likely the time over the years as well as other numerous restorations I have done, that thought process was incomplete. I do remember @ 5-6 years ago doing something with removing the wheels again and deciding to toss the locking lug nuts / tool. But clearly only addressed 2 of the 4 wheels in the process. |
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If that is the wheel stud i'm looking at, center punch it and drill it out.
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Ok - after sleeping on it this is my solution: go online find an aluminum sleeve / barrel with the ID that = OD of the stud. With the OD slightly larger than base nut x 40mm long. I’ll make a paper pattern for the base nut OD and pin hole location .
I’ll transfer that to one end of the sleeve, hand drill for steel pins / pattern. Then use my dremel tool to square up the opposite end to 1/2” to use my 1/2” ratchet. Overall simplest, quickest, easiest way to do this as I’m not drilling the nut ( for now) |
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It would be awesome if another pic could be posted allowing a 3D mental image of the stud and fastener to be formed. |
I’ll get another pic or two tonight……
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I've seen and played with those locks before. I may have a set of them at my other house, or may have tossed them. If you haven't gotten them off on Monday, I'll check when I go back there Monday night.
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So you've only got 2 wheels to deal with, and you've got a dremel tool. Just carefully grind the aluminum nut from the edge towards the stud to the point of fracturing the nut and you're done.
https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html Or if it's a pressed in stud, use a small punch to center punch the stud, then a bigger punch and and a 3 lb. hammer to hit the stud hard, then find a nut that fits the threads of the stud and weld that to something that would fit in the end of a large slide hammer that you could use to pull the stud back towards you. By now the threads in the aluminum nut have probably been deformed and bet that aluminum nut would spin off with your fingers. I'd even put the other lug nuts back on the wheel to support the hub before hitting it the hard lick. |
3/4" deep hole saw and go real slow when you feel you're almost through. Sharp pointed punch to remove what's left on the stud. Done a lot this way. That was the worst lock lug ever invented.
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Seen lots of wheels boogered by dremels, punches and drills.
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I have a key for those wheel locks that looks like it might fit..
I had these locks on a car years ago, and removed them and tossed them in a toolbox drawer... LMK if you want to try http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659969355.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659969355.jpg |
That’s it! it would save me a lot of work if you’d be willing to part with that. I’m certain the pin spacing is not the same, but I could modify what doesn’t line up. PM me please - thanks!
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First one: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659970932.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659970932.jpg |
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There are also quite a few projects that I've worked on where I was really really happy that I didn't have a dremel tool handy. Still haven't gotten one, I think if I had one I'd end up doing more harm than good with it. |
Have you tried swearing at it and throwing stuff yet ?
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No, but I'm pretty sure that thing and my ex-wife have a lot in common. Both high maintenance, both b*****he's, and both hate me to this day.
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