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Evans, Marv 12-23-2022 03:26 PM

I'd take it up a notch and say amazing!

cstreit 12-23-2022 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas (Post 11879785)
Well done Chris.

That should "Put her right" for the next 40 or 50 years.

I figure this bike will be running 50 years from now, I dont think I'll say that about any of my other "modern" bikes.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Evans, Marv (Post 11879811)
I'd take it up a notch and say amazing!

Thank you. Its a 5-10 footer still for sure - but I've addressed mechanical's and halted any degradation so thats about the right place I figure for me to enjoy riding it without becoming a worry wart.

cstreit 12-23-2022 06:47 PM

Love seeing the other bikes.

A front disc brake would definitely be a nice upgrade, but I just LOVE the pure mechanical look of the vented front drum so I don't think I'll change it out.

flatbutt 12-23-2022 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rot 911 (Post 11834222)
Might as well throw in a picture of mine. The market has pretty well topped out on these bikes. A nice one will run you about $8000.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667090716.jpg

O holy hannah that is beautiful!

Mike Andrew 12-24-2022 07:06 AM

Dammmm what a change, Chris. Think you have the right idea about just riding it without the worries of, :what if".

Feel sorry for you polishing the springs. Did many times on my Z1; a miserable, time consuming job.

herr_oberst 12-24-2022 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cstreit (Post 11879914)

I just LOVE the pure mechanical look of the vented front drum

Me too.

And ask yourself, 'how many times am I going to do the ton on this bike between now and then', and the answer will probably be pretty low.

Yorkie 12-24-2022 08:57 AM

When you refit the oil tank I’d recommend you sit it on a pad of rubber with a hole cut in it to accommodate the screw boss. The tanks have a nasty habit of fracturing on their base so a lot of the long time commando owners either reinforce the base or just let it sit.

cstreit 12-24-2022 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yorkie (Post 11880185)
When you refit the oil tank I’d recommend you sit it on a pad of rubber with a hole cut in it to accommodate the screw boss. The tanks have a nasty habit of fracturing on their base so a lot of the long time commando owners either reinforce the base or just let it sit.

Thanks! THere's already a rubber grommet in that boss that the screw goes through, but the mount felt rather firm. I'll pull that bolt and install something with some give.

yellowperil 12-24-2022 10:26 AM

I have a few Snortin' Norton parts if you want 'em
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by cstreit (Post 11831783)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1671909836.jpg

The only valuable part really is the grab rail, and I see you need one.

cstreit 12-24-2022 10:50 AM

The '71 didn't come with a grab rail as far as I know. I think that started in 72?

yellowperil 12-24-2022 11:04 AM

I've owned about 11 or 12 of the commandos and I '67 650 featherbed framed monster (it may have been a 750) my brain is not working quite right.

And I sold a few, sold one to a friend and I said "You know John this bike is going to ruin you for every other bike you ever own" (Ballsy eh !)

20 years or more latter, saw him again, you were right he said, it was always my favoritehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1671911032.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1671911136.jpg

There pics are all of the same bike; bought new in 73 Black 750 Commando than changed over to the fastback look. Had it 1973-2001, Note the steering stabilizer from front fork the frame. Really made the steering extra manageable. Sorry to butt in, I shouldn't do that.

yellowperil 12-24-2022 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cstreit (Post 11880268)
The '71 didn't come with a grab rail as far as I know. I think that started in 72?

I think you're right.

cstreit 12-24-2022 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellowperil (Post 11880277)
Sorry to butt in, I shouldn't do that.

Perish the thought - good to know there are others just as enthusiastic! Love seeing the pics - gives me ideas.

I wish I could address the clutch pull. I'm beginning to thing its a stack height issue, but need to learn how to check and look into it further.

yellowperil 12-24-2022 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cstreit (Post 11880359)
Perish the thought - good to know there are others just as enthusiastic! Love seeing the pics - gives me ideas.

I wish I could address the clutch pull. I'm beginning to thing its a stack height issue, but need to learn how to check and look into it further.

It has a kink somewhere. I was good at always having smooth clutch and speedo cables. Try to route them different ways it should smoothen out

cstreit 12-24-2022 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellowperil (Post 11880399)
It has a kink somewhere. I was good at always having smooth clutch and speedo cables. Try to route them different ways it should smoothen out

New cable - lubed and I was very meticulous about broad swooping runs.

...but if you're saying its super sensitive I can have a look. Adjusting the clutch arm did help a little.

yellowperil 12-24-2022 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cstreit (Post 11880420)
New cable - lubed and I was very meticulous about broad swooping runs.

...but if you're saying its super sensitive I can have a look. Adjusting the clutch arm did help a little.

Well you're going about it the right way, hope it works out

Yorkie 12-24-2022 09:48 PM

It’s clutch plate stack height if you’ve got your cable routing correct. Research on AccessNorton.com and you’ll locate the correct thickness of plates. I’ve got boxes of plates so if you need one or two to mix n match let me know. Once you get the stack right it only takes a couple of fingers to pull the clutch.

cstreit 12-25-2022 03:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yorkie (Post 11880553)
It’s clutch plate stack height if you’ve got your cable routing correct. Research on AccessNorton.com and you’ll locate the correct thickness of plates. I’ve got boxes of plates so if you need one or two to mix n match let me know. Once you get the stack right it only takes a couple of fingers to pull the clutch.

THanks. I've been reading that on AccessNorton. Lots of people talk about it, haven't found a good guide on how to measure and adjust yet.

Appreciate the offer - I'll be in touch. Still plenty of time this winter to dig in.

Rot 911 12-25-2022 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cstreit (Post 11880359)
Perish the thought - good to know there are others just as enthusiastic! Love seeing the pics - gives me ideas.

I wish I could address the clutch pull. I'm beginning to thing its a stack height issue, but need to learn how to check and look into it further.

I had the same problem with the clutch on my Norton. I fiddled and fiddled with the adjustment and the clutch stack and finally gave up and just bought a new set of clutch plates. They are fairly inexpensive and that solved my problem. When I bought the bike, the crank seal had been blown out from wet sumping and trying to start the bike with a full sump. I think the clutch plates had soaked up too much oil and were swollen and sticky. Again new plates solved that problem.

cstreit 12-25-2022 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rot 911 (Post 11880622)
I had the same problem with the clutch on my Norton. I fiddled and fiddled with the adjustment and the clutch stack and finally gave up and just bought a new set of clutch plates. They are fairly inexpensive and that solved my problem. When I bought the bike, the crank seal had been blown out from wet sumping and trying to start the bike with a full sump. I think the clutch plates had soaked up too much oil and were swollen and sticky. Again new plates solved that problem.

Colorado Norton Works has a setup for $204 which may be my next purchase.

This bike only has 7900 miles on it, surprised the clutch could be worn out of spec, but the adjuster was too tight so... could be?


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