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Gentlemen, Change your Sockets!
If you can't find your 10mm socket....just convert to a 13/32 sae socket. :D
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go to Amazon to buy one..or a few.
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Harbor Freight still had that set on sale last week.
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Just ordered a whole new set of Torx sockets today to make work on the Cayenne easier.
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^^^ What brand did you buy?
I’ve never needed them before, but after working on my 330, I bought a set of E Torx. |
These ones. I liked that they are longer. Getting my door panel off recently was a challenge pushing the socket body into the holes for handle and support. Good reviews too.
DISEN 7PCS 3/8” Drive Extra Long Torx Star Bit Socket Set | 7 Piece | T25 to T60 | |
Since all my "craftsperson" 1/2" drive regular metric sockets were 12 point, I filled in with a set from Tekton a few months ago...
https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-drive-6-point-socket-set-shd92002 If all their other sockets are made this well, I can say they are very well made. Can't really say why anybody would want a 10mm in 1/2" drive though... |
I lost a 10mm socket the other day and went to replace it. The guy at Repco offered me a ten pack of 10mm sockets. It looks some people are even worse than me about losing them.
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Thye need to make sockets with a flat on one side so they don't roll. That would stop all this 10 mm nonsense. Probably save the planet.
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Milwaukee socket sets...designed anti-roll. Can buy 'em through Home Depot. Made in Taiwan. (edit) This should get you started... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-8-in-Drive-SAE-Metric-Ratchet-and-Socket-Mechanics-Tool-Set-56-Piece-with-PACKOUT-22-in-Tool-Box-48-22-9008-48-22-8424/314981506 |
In 1967 while working at Ace Cycle World in Chicago bought my first set of metric sockets, SK Wayne. The 10mm is still here though the 13mm has fractured at all 6 corners.
Rich |
^^^ I still have mine also....but the ratchet won't hold onto a socket anymore.
I should get it fixed. Never lost the 10mm. I think mine was 1970 |
Kinda sad that SK was bought by a Chinese company...
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In 1970 when I started driving I bough a set of Fuller sockets and a ratchet with two extensions and a spark plug wrench on a plastic case. The chrome is worn off of the ratchet from getting set down on the concrete. Fuller was made in Japan high quality tools.
I still have the entire set, and I have never lost a socket. I did break the 14 mm by being lazy and using the 14mm on my impact wrench and promptly split it. My go to sockets right now are those sockets. I don't think I have ever lost a socket, but I only work on my cars. So no chance of them getting left in a customer car. |
Where would I get a replacement for the head on my S-K ratchet. The ball bearing won't hold onto a socket anymore. It's 50 years old and I would like to get it into useable condition again.
Or is it something I could fix by taking it apart? |
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Let's put it this way...I see no need to toss old tools that still function well in order to buy new ones. |
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That ratchet has never needed a rebuild, and no standard chrome 14 mm socket is going to stand up to an impact wrench on a tight nut. I used my impact socket, and took the nut right off. |
My 50 year old S-K ratchet has a better 'feel' than any of the newer ones that I have bought.
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Glen, that's a coincidence...my 1st set of metric sockets are also Japanese, bought from a now defunct yamaha/honda dealer back in the 60's. Still have the sockets and the metal tray they came in. "Truecraft" again...7-19mm no skips. Then price still written on the tray..$6.95. Thinking I must have bought the ratchet at the same time. Memories of my Yamaha dirt bike years... |
^^^ It's a 3/8" drive with a round head. The number stamped is 45170
I did a couple searches and it looks like a kit would be around $20 shipped. I haven't looked at youtube yet...but I will. |
EZ Peazy with the kit.
<iframe width="1268" height="713" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_8xUqgoxm-w" title="Rebuilding an SK Hand Tools 45170 7.6" 3/8" Drive Ratchet" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
I have a snap-ring pliers in the garage that I'm sure I will need for this.
The video is exactly the ratchet I have. Thanks! |
The tube of super lube synthetic grease will run you around $10 at a parts store. It's dielectric, so serves well when working with wiring connections.
Another guy who really got into it, tearing apart the pawl unit as well. Interesting to see how they're assembled. <iframe width="1268" height="713" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3IRuiuqHyKk" title="SK Ratchet Rebuild (SK 42470)" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
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I took mine apart this am and cleaned the whole thing up good of dirt. Tried again to free up the ball-bearing....can't push it in at all. I wonder if the spring behind it broke?
Getting that circlip back in was tricky. Looking online for a repair kit, I don't think I want to spend that much to fix it. I have a few other brand ratchets that work fine...and the S-K is not perfect on the handle portion. |
You can run but you cannot hide.
I found a 10mm socket. See it hiding bottom right in the pic. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668108772.jpg |
So that's where the clicking sound came from...LOL!
Steve, did you try freeing the ball bearing with a vise? I'm thinking probably worn out of round though. Kit sounds $pendy? Maybe you'd rather buy a new one? ;) From the SK site...unfortunately sold out.. Will they become available again since the Chinese bought SK? Doubtful... https://sktools.com/products/3-8-drive-dt80-ratchet |
^^^ I tried that just now...it didn't move it.
This pic shows how it's recessed below the level of the flat surface. I tried to pick at it with a sharp blade to turn it. It turns, but that's it. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668114122.jpg |
Yep..spring collapsed, most likely. Damn. Looks like the kit is your best option. If it was mine, I'd go the kit..but I'm not you. Those round knurled handles just feel good to me...
(edit) evidently the aftermarket kits will mean a black anvil, but no biggie as far as I'm concerned. Not perfect on the handle section? If knurling is rusty, some wire brush time will take care of that. |
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