which 10" table saw to buy
 

I'm a diy'er, not a carpenter. I built my kitchen and bathrooms from bare walls although I didn't build the cabinets, but just to say I take on mid-level projects. I looked at the feedback for a number of the re-branded chinesium saws and it isn't pretty. The stats are skewed b/c most are happy with their purchases and don't comment. On the other hand, people who leave negative reviews are likely those who know what to expect and know when something isn't right. When multiple negative reviews confirm each other, I take notice. So here is what I've found:

- The DeWalt motor is out of alignment, very difficult to adjust, and if not done will result in you getting maimed by flying projectiles when the blade binds.

- The Delta may arrive with a bad motor or it may die in short order.

- The Bosch has a plastic adjustment knob that will immediately break leaving the saw useless, and the hardware bag may be missing preventing assembly

- The Skil's motor is unsteady and wobbly for some reason.

- The $900 SawStop's blade will fall off. A spring in the fence adjustment will sail off into space and there is no chance in hell of getting a replacement. The fence adjustment binds.

One of them has a plastic fence adjustment handle that immediately breaks. All of the tables are non-flat making accurate cuts impossible. The miter gauges are all plastic junk. The saws should be delivered set up to make accurate cuts. Instead, it's up to owners to do this.

Any recco's? Or maybe just buy an old, well maintained saw?

I'm not sure how much room you have.
I'd go with an older Rockwell/Beaver saw.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668112206.jpg

I got an old Craftsman like this from my carpenter grandfather when he died. It seems bullet proof. I think it is called a "model 113 contractors saw"

Looks like this random one I Google searched

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668112226.jpg

Like you I'm no craftsman just a diy guy. I have the Skil saw and it has served me well. Very good for ripping and cross cutting but if you want to do anything else you'll need after market guides / miters for nicer cuts. For example, I always need to check both ends of the blade for distance from the fence to ensure a square cut.

That is the exact saw I have. Bought it new in the mid 1980's and still going strong. Belt drive and the table top and wings are cast iron. No problems at all with it... that saw is missing the blade guard however.

I was looking at various Ryobi saws when I did that vinyl plank job and was impressed with the variety they offer.

Here's one that's only $189 from HD, and looks like it has fairly good reviews.

15 Amp 10 in. Compact Portable Jobsite Table Saw with Folding Stand

Model #RTS12

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-15-Amp-10-in-Compact-Portable-Jobsite-Table-Saw-with-Folding-Stand-RTS12/309412842

I’ve been around our shop for 48 years and our Beaver was there when we got here. Still being used every day.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668118701.jpg

I own a commercial trim carpentry company and have been doing it for over 25years. We have over 30 guys and have used all the major brands. Saws get used 6 days a week and the guys don’t pay for them so they abuse the hell out of them. Dewalt,dewalt,dewalt! I edited this part. My bad didn’t see you were looking for a 10”. May I ask why? The newer 8 1/4” are just as strong and easily stored.

ok, ok, ok!. I'd love one of those ol' Beavers, but too impatient to locate one and don't know how I'd transport it.

Side note: My BIL told me there was college in PA named Beaver College, but the name was changed for some reason.

I just bought that one to do some work in Florida. Works fine, limited by maximum rip of 12". The stand is actually more steady than it looks.

My go-to at home is a dewalt portable, with a larger rip (just over 24") but this is less than half the price.

Bottom line? I want a good sharp blade and a decent cast aluminum fence (not stamped steel)

Good to know Dad!

I found out about having a nice sharp blade when I did that flooring job. Having a sharp blade really makes a difference!

https://bettertoolz.com/wp-content/u...Saw-Mean-1.jpg

There are lots of great options but a cast iron top is a "really nice to have" because it's durable and flat. If you keep them clean and waxed you'll never have any issues with rust.

The built in safety system of a Sawstop is hard to ignore...
- The replacement cartridges are expensive and the saw blade is often ruined but absolutely worth it IMO.

(I own a Sawstop Jobsite)

I bought a cheap Ryobi and it's fantastic.

I have a strong opinion here.

1. Saw stop. You really need all fingers.
2. If you are cheap like me, get a solid second hand saw. My Craftsman cost $25. It is like the picture above. I have used the heck out of it for years. Only short coming is the fence is crap and it will cleanly remove fingers.

Maybe I should have lugged this baby home. Left curbside in my Mom's neighborhood. At the time my truck was already pretty full with tools and my equipment so really didn't have room. I'm also trying to ease up on the amount of scores I lug home.

I was eyeing that new Diablo blade though.....that alone would have been worth the trouble. I hope she found a home somewhere before the claw truck showed up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668131381.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668131381.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668131381.JPG

I have that same radial arm saw. I've had it about 30yrs. I love it.

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Like some of the other DIYers I wouldn’t use the tablesaw all that much. Plus I have a storage space problem. So I’m keeping my eye out for a black Friday deal on a portable table saw.

Just don’t use a radial to rip like a table saw.

I'll bet a Nebraska storage space problem is a whole 'nother situation versus LA suburbia where every sq inch is accounted for.

Here's what we use when we do work in the shop. I like the Powermatic model 66 (green 10" cabinet saw) most due to its size. Sliding table is used almost every time we are in there but the old Oliver direct drive, 12" saw is the work horse from the 50 or 60? Its old. Man, when they way they don't make 'em like they use to is so true. New equipment is great but the old saws are just different and robust and all are cast iron tops.

To answer your question OP, get a Bosch or DeWalt if you are after a portable saw due to space. I know all about that when I started doing this back in college out of my dad's garage. Now, we have two dewalt saws out on our job sites and they get beaten a bit and surprisingly, they hold up well and stay true. I like the Bosch only because its slightly smaller and lighter. Get the rolling table. No fun working on the floor. If you are after a slightly larger saw with a bit more precision, check out the Grizzly 10" contract saw ( get the HTC mobile base, if they are still around. Not the other cheap crap. You will tank me for it later). That was my first stationary/ contractor type saw with the motor hanging out back. If you decide to get one like it, change the belt to the link type belt to reduce vibration. I can get a nickle to stand on edge when that saw was running. Biesemayer fence is my go to but other imports have caught up with them and I am sure they are just as good. Shop fox or Jet is the other. Sawstop would be on my shopping list if we use the shop like we use to. Don't read into all the BS on the net too much only because people seem to complain when the shipping box has a tear on it.

Oh there's the blade. I can go on and on but would bore youw ith the different types out there. Thin kerf if your friend with under power saws.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668137527.jpg
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