Construction Gurus: How to fix squeaking staircase & tiling risers

Tidybuoy · Yesterday, 10:33 AM

Question for the experts:

I have a 96yr old Spanish style home (future rental) and the stairs squeak - a lot. I am hoping to fix or minimize however, I have no access from below due to plaster ceiling and I don't want to open that can of worms.

I'm wondering if I could use a brad nail gun and try to firm up the risers. I might be able to hammer in some shims at the base of the risers or underneath the treads. But most importantly, I want to tile the risers with Talavera tiles (like pic below). My thoughts are that the tile/mortar will act as a firm base for the treads and help to eliminate the squeaks.

I'm on a tight budget so completely rebuilding the staircase is not an option for me. Any advice would be appreciated.

My Current Staircase:

I'm hoping to do this style of tiling the risers:

oldE · Yesterday, 11:20 AM

I would probably drill and countersink screws, then plug with the same type of wood.

gregpark · Yesterday, 11:43 AM

Is there access to the underside of the stairs? If so, run a bead of PL at every joint beneath the stairs. It'll take a couple of tubes. Run screws up through the treads into the risers. I've done this successfully many times. Also, an old trick: sweep baby powder into the joints of the treads and risers from the top, damp rag it off, no vacuum

Zeke · Yesterday, 12:07 PM

Generally the main source of squeaks are the existing nails. It's a lot of work, but you could pull them using a couple of non destructive techniques or driving them way deeper with a skinny nail set and companion nailing.

I myself might not want to depend on air nailing with out other measures taken. Listen to Greg but unfortunately he didn't see that you can't get to the underside. @oldE has a good idea too. I would do at least some of that or do all of that in a pattern so it looks like it was always pegged.

There are "finish" screws that are set with a drill/driver. The head is half the size but they will hold. You can predrill only the tread and use wood glue slightly thinned in each hole before sending the screw. Give it a minute to get to the stringer.

Crowbob · Yesterday, 02:31 PM

A buddy amine built a log home up in da UP. His floor squeaks. He went with a stop-squeak product that involves screws that break off slightly less than flush with the floor. They leave an unnoticeable 1/8” very shallow hole in the floor.

I’m gonna try that with my stairs. My problem was the glue I used is too flexible (after curing) and allows the treads to squeak. I’ll post the product later.

Zeke · Yesterday, 03:18 PM

Tommy on TOH used those ^^^^ screws in one episode. I had forgotten about them. Good call.

look 171 · Yesterday, 04:09 PM

How much work do you want to do? I agree with Milt here, its the nails that's making all the ruckus. If you are set on tiling the risers, tear them off and shim, screw, or do whatever you need to do from the front. Screw them down and plug them if necessary. I suggest using glue if possible. Install Wonderboard or whatever as riser, tile over that. Its a bit more work but its the only way and you will see it move as you walk over the threads.

gregpark · Yesterday, 04:25 PM

I missed the bit about no access to the underside. If you're tiling the existing risers then you can put a bead of PL top and bottom of the risers and the tile will hide it. Worth a shot, it might stop the squeaks. If you actually replace the risers you'll have gluing access to everything. I certainly wouldn't use wonderboard for risers, solid 1x only, glued in

Zeke · Yesterday, 04:56 PM

Well, if we're going into a discussion about risers I think you could split the difference. I haven't run into many 5/4 risers but I'm not there and it's an old building.
1/4" ply and half inch tile board is one way to do a 3/4" hybrid. Or 1/2 ply or OSB with 1/4 tile board, either way glue it fully to make a lamination and it will stand up to use.

The thing is, those Talavera tiles can be hand made and not that flat, so with thinset you might want to plan for another 3/8ths inch of riser thickness. This could make the treads awkward. Tile selection is important here as 1/4" tile is preferred. I'd even skimp on the backer to get the tiles back under the risers enough to preserve the tread overhang. The range is generally considered to be 3/4" to 1-1/4. I prefer more rather than less but will settle for what works AND looks good. If it's too flush you will notice.

Personally, for interior stairs I need a min of 11" tread. Again, I can settle for less but at size 12 I don't like 10" treads at all. We don't know what the conditions are now so it's all talk.

look 171 · Yesterday, 05:08 PM

Yep, if the concern is not having enough backing for Wonderboard (I dislike Wonderboard myself and try to not use them) and over time with the kicking of the tip of one's shoe causing the tiles to crack, I suggest blocking them off toe nailing (or screw) with a 2x material so its sits flush with the riser on the stringer. Install 1/4" hardibacker, tile over it. Of course this is after you get rid of the squeaking.

gregpark · Yesterday, 05:26 PM

I always plan treads hanging over the risers by one inch. It's code and I'm very careful building stairs. Too easy for people to get hurt on stairs and you can bet some lawyer would have a tape in his hand looking to place blame. I make sure my elevations don't vary and use non slip finish. I refuse to install laminate on stairs "thanks but you'll have to find someone else".

Crowbob · Yesterday, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crowbob

A buddy amine built a log home up in da UP. His floor squeaks. He went with a stop-squeak product that involves screws that break off slightly less than flush with the floor. They leave an unnoticeable 1/8” very shallow hole in the floor.

I’m gonna try that with my stairs. My problem was the glue I used is too flexible (after curing) and allows the treads to squeak. I’ll post the product later.

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