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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,274
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Auto body work and welding ideas.
What do you think the best plan of attack is for finishing up installing flares on my 330.
You can see the slits I cut when I originally had the plastic flares installed. I’ll cut the flair back even with the end of the slits, weld those closed, extend the panel in the blue square and weld the flare on. I think I’m going to continue cutting out the panel in the green striped area. This will make square panels/cuts on the front, back and top. I’m thinking it’ll be easier to weld then trying to fit a sliver between the flare in the existing body. Then weld the new panel to the body and top of the flare. I don’t want the sharp edge on the flare, so I’ll weld a small rod 1/8-1/4” on the outside/bottom to give it some rigidity and soften it. This is my first big job doing something like this. Any ideas on how to tackle it better? Edit. I’ve got about 2 inches between the outside edge of the tire and the bottom of the flare. I’ve got a stiff suspension with poly bushings and 700 pound springs, so I’m hoping it doesn’t rub on the bottom of the flare. Thinking about it, I may tack weld the flare on then take it for a drive and see if I hear it rub.
Last edited by A930Rocket; 12-06-2022 at 06:11 PM.. |
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Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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Anybody? 😂
Anybody have any ideas on how to do it better? |
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Well, you are in pretty deep there, better you then me. You did asked for opinions, could you weld on the new piece higher up to make sure you clear the tire when it travels up? If you get a large solid piece of wood and a large ball peen hammer you could put some 3d shape into the section you are welding on. To fill any openings with mig wire you could try a piece of 3/32 or 1/8 copper sheet under where you are welding as a back support.
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87 930, Last edited by 908/930; 12-07-2022 at 12:28 PM.. |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cambridge, MA
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I can only offer that if you are welding galvanized steel, don't. Make sure you sand off any galvanizing before welding. Breathing in the fumes is not good for you.
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Tru6 Restoration & Design |
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Did you remove the gas tank? I hope so.
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87 930, |
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Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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I can raise the flare but if I do, it looks like I have a huge gap between the tire and the flare itself. The slits are thin enough I can weld them up. I do have a copper spatula if needed.
The two hard tasks are fitting the large panel to the flare and also the bottom/front and back of the flare. I’m thinking I’ll get the contour on the bottom of the patch panel right and then start cutting down the top and slides to match my opening. The areas at the bottom front and bottom rear I’m probably just gonna end up having to weld in pieces of sheet metal. It’s not a show car but a track car so it doesn’t have to be beautiful but I do want it to look decent. Quote:
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Valencia Pa.
Posts: 8,860
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The filler neck on our M3 was plastic. I almost lit it off when welding in rear shock tower reinforcements . A hot booger fell on it and it was burning. I came this close ......
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No left turn un stoned |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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Posts: 14,274
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Quote:
If you read in the paper that a Charleston man dies when his car explodes while working on it, you’ll know who it was!😂 |
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