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Cherry microswitch
While getting my gas stove up and running, I noticed the remote didn’t work. The receiver on lights up when I hit the remote which is good. I noticed one of the pins on the micro switch had fallen off, basically corroded. I then got screw driver out and took off switch.
I know the make is Cherry. It says DB3 on it and 0.1A 125-250VAC and 0.1A250. It has two pins. My problem is the only ones I can find that look like it say DB1. Anyone know what that means or a good source of someone to talk to, electrical always has me stumped. Sorry, can’t upload picture. Thank you. |
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Seems to be a subminiature used for many things - there was a pinball machine parts supplier listing them. Quote:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697295713.jpg Quote:
DB1 seem to be straight pin for the terminals (don't seem to have the plastic clips, but those may be provisions for locating posts/pins on the body), http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697297292.jpg whereas DB3 have right-handed terminals for board mount with snap-in clips on the body, like this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697296389.jpg Any writing on the body looks to be about capacitance, current rating etc. Some part of the spec, somewhere, will probaby cover NO or NC (Normally Open/Closed). Quote:
Good luck! |
Thanks, yeah I tried googling and got a bunch of db3 with three pins. The only two pin was a db1. The other issue pf mine has two holes to be able to screw to the system. The db3’s I’ve seen don’t have the screw holes to attach.
Thanks for your help, I appreciate it. |
The picture of the 1st one looks just like it but with three pins.
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Have you tried to fix the one pictured?
Grind some plastic away, solder, then JB Weld it. |
And here I am thinkin we be talking about keyboards ...
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Might be able to figure out the exact part # you need from Mouser - Cherry Switch Catalog |
Buy the three-pin with same amperage rating and use the center pin and whichever side matches your application. (normally closed? Normally open?) Throw a meter on your existing switch and see what it is. Most likely you will just grind off and insulate that third pin that didn't exist on your switch.
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