Opening up and framing a new attic door

[G50]

So I want to get attic access from inside the house.

Could I just cut out what’s in the way, frame out the door and header with sistered 2x4 (as shown in yellow)?

The 1x6 cross bar would be gone, wondering about that.

[masraum]

I'm not the guy with the answer, but I'd be pretty concerned about cutting that angled 1x6.

I'd be more likely (if possible) to put a shorter door to the right.

[Flatbutt1]

Is that just a framing wall or is it a support structure? The angled 2x4s to the right appear to be supporting a rafter or some such so maybe the angled board is an anti-racking brace?

I'm no carpenter but I suppose if you sistered properly and used a correctly sized header it could work. If that angled board is a brace, you may be able to flip it t0 the inside of the wall.

Zeke is the guy whose opinion you want.

[gregpark]

I believe that brace was to square up the framing. Once the siding was nailed on, the bracing had done its job. You could rock the interior wall for additional shear though. Might as well throw up some insulation if you're doing that. I wouldn't have a problem with cutting a door in that wall

[look 171]

Diagonal bracing is there to keep the building from racking. How far does it go down below? Is that an exterior wall? Most times, shear panel the entire wall if you just want to be safe including the area above the new doorway. 5/8" plywood will do the trick. I like Structural 1 OSB if you are really anal but for what you need there, I would nail a piece of plywood and be done with it.

[G50]

Yes, that’s an interior wall.

It doesn’t go any further down than shown in the picture (well, maybe a few inches) because the middle of the garage is directly below it.

[john70t]

Not sure what we are looking at. ?

It looks like drywall on the other side ie the outside of the house.
(There is no stamping so it must be a different sheeting material.)

There is no insulation shown so it must be "unconditioned space".
Any installed door to livable space must be insulated and airtight.
Make sure it vents to outside and is sealed to the inside.

The rafters should be now taking ALL of the heavy vertical load.

The 1x6 is there to help triangulate. Good. A minor thing but it helps.
These improve shear strength and are not used commonly enough.

Adding a 1/2" or 5/8" sheet of plywood on the right will do the same thing. Use external rated screws. 2.5-3" should bite deep into the studs.
It might need to be open top/bottom to ventilate when against a cold wall. IDK the situation.
Do this before opening the hole.

[Tobra]

I would just move it up(1x6)and have it go from the stud on the L where it currently is attached, and tie it to the stud un the R that is unmolested by the door. That could be what you attach the top of your door frame to

[look 171]

Originally Posted by G50

Yes, that’s an interior wall.

It doesn’t go any further down than shown in the picture (well, maybe a few inches) because the middle of the garage is directly below it.

Shear the other side and above the door (If you like). Done

[jcommin]

Move the opening to the right past the diagonal brace??

[G50]

Originally Posted by john70t

Not sure what we are looking at. ?

It looks like drywall on the other side ie the outside of the house.
(There is no stamping so it must be a different sheeting material.)

There is no insulation shown so it must be "unconditioned space".
Any installed door to livable space must be insulated and airtight.
Make sure it vents to outside and is sealed to the inside.

The rafters should be now taking ALL of the heavy vertical load.

The 1x6 is there to help triangulate. Good. A minor thing but it helps.
These improve shear strength and are not used commonly enough.

Adding a 1/2" or 5/8" sheet of plywood on the right will do the same thing. Use external rated screws. 2.5-3" should bite deep into the studs.
It might need to be open top/bottom to ventilate when against a cold wall. IDK the situation.
Do this before opening the hole.

The picture is taken from the “attic” above the garage.

The other side of the wall is a bedroom.

So, with the door I’d be able to access the attic from the bedroom, instead of using the pull down stairs in the garage.

Others have suggested putting the door to the right. That’s possible, but would be inconvenient because I’d have to move a desk anytime I wanted to open the door.

[masraum]

There's lots of good, interesting info in this thread.

Originally Posted by G50

The picture is taken from the “attic” above the garage.

The other side of the wall is a bedroom.

So, with the door I’d be able to access the attic from the bedroom, instead of using the pull down stairs in the garage.

Others have suggested putting the door to the right. That’s possible, but would be inconvenient because I’d have to move a desk anytime I wanted to open the door.

OK, good to know. It sounds like the guys think it would be OK to put a door there.
Is your garage air conditioned and heated? If not, unless you live someplace super temerate, I'd be insulating that wall to the bedroom. And like John said, make sure that door is air tight.

[look 171]

If the concern is R value in the bedroom, then I would install rigid foam between rafters throughout attic where it is accessible. It WILL make a difference throughout the house. 2-3" should be enough. Not cheap but it does work very well. Not sure what part of the country you are located, by addition insulation in the wall where the doors goes is similar to having a Cool Collar on an air cool car. Sure it works on paper but in reality? Out here, 20 min fire rated is code. Door sweep and jamb weather stripping should be installed not for R value but to keep dust out of the bedroom which is more important IMO. Good luck

[ben parrish]

Cutting that diagonal is a non issue. The building in now stable with the drywall and other sheeting in place. Cut the door and move on. Spray foam the wall if you want…otherwise, just insulate with fiberglass batts. There is no insulation there now so no reason to overthink this.