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Kilz as a sealer/primer on skim coated walls 1 coat or 2
We had a bunch of drywall work done, and it's all skim coated (not just the seams and nail/screw heads covered, the entire thing has a layer of mud). The wife is putting down a layer of Kilz before she paints as a sealer/primer. She was thinking "one coat" but now she's wondering if she needs 2 coats.
What do you folks think?
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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I find that sometimes primer can bubble the paper with 2 coats because it soaks it in.
Is Kilz a regular primer or is the mold covering type?
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Quote:
"Kilz 2 Latex is a fast drying, water-base, multi-purpose primer sealer stain blocker that can be top coated with latex or oil-based paint."
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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I used just one coat Kilz as a primer on the exterior of my 1927 English Tudor. It is still holding up after 23 years although I no longer own the house.
I can't remember if I tinted it, the body color of the home was a jade green. Worked out well.
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Are you talking about "Kilz Professional Drywall Primer & Sealer?" If it were me, I'd put down only one decent coat. I don't think more than that is necessary. If that's what you're using, read the directions on the can.
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Thanks for the answers, folks!
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Just a heads up, gently vacuum any dust from the wall surface and when priming keep moving pretty fast and don't go back over until the paint is dry. Pretty easy to screw up the fresh drywall compound with water based paint.
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Yep, we'd gently cleaned the walls as much as possible. The compound is thoroughly dry.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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The compound is dry until the moisture in the paint wets it. Pretty sure the skim coat was done with regular compound and not a setting type, so add enough water and it goes to liquid again.
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87 930, Last edited by 908/930; 02-12-2024 at 09:13 AM.. |
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Get better advice..but I wouldn't use Kilz. It's more of a hard sealer-shellac. Great for covering stains.
Use a primer made for fresh drywall which will soak in and bond. Glidden or Olympic i think.
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However, Kilz has expanded their line so the new 'sealer' just meant as a primer and NOT necessarily a stain killer might be OK But it's an unnecessary expense. A generic PVA sealer was designed for just this purpose. |
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Quote:
Good to know, thanks!
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Use a PVA drywall primer, not Kilz.
.
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I'm impressed you went with a level 5 finish on the drywall. Adds a bunch of work but nicer finish.
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I recently used Kilz on a similar fresh drywall job and it did ruin my work in several places. Too wet and heavy. Used a roller and it pulled off skim coat work underneath here and there. It does work quite well for stains and to prevent mold (where necessary), but I will not use it on fresh work again.
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I have accounts with Ben Moore and SW, so that's what I usually use
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One coat of PVA primer, two coats of paint. We use Sherwin Williams also and B. Moore.
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We used it to cover fire smoke in attics. No top coat and that was the perfect and only real proper use for the product. But leave it to marketing and ignorant customers and it became a "primer." A main reason for that was the very quick drying time. You could get oil based enamel to go over Kilz quite well within a couple hours. But it didn't adhere so if subjected to the elements it was a one week failure. I hired a painter even though I was a painting contractor not knowing that he would shortcut the job on a new bay window that cost a large a sum to install. He used Kilz and top coated the same day. I had to strip the window entirely and lost double the amount of the contract. This was many years ago before any product changes to the original formula and it cost me a thousand dollars when my house payment was $400 and gas was under a dollar. |
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Sadly, fellas, by the time you told me, it was too late for the PVA primer, but I'll remember that for the next time (downstairs).
I've used a couple of the name brand paints including SW, including some of their top lines. I didn't like it. I don't do a lot of painting (I hate it, let the missus do it). But she got some Farrow & Ball ($$) paint that I have used, and I have to say, I much prefer working with it. But it's expensive.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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