craftsman garage door opener problems

[ramonesfreak]

model 139.54990 3/4hp
installed new in 2016

any experts out there?

here’s the problem: when i close the garage door with a remote or the keypad, the door will close either almost all the way down or all the way down but then go back up on its own

for some reason, it seems to close correctly every time if i stand inside the garage while using the open/close button installed inside the garage

i have reset the door travel dozens of times. no change.

i have removed the lightbulbs from the opener

nothin blocking the safety sensors

i have not yet replaced the batteries to the remotes or keypad...not sure how this would be the issue

i am thinking i need to replace the logic board??????

any ideas?

interestingly, last year i had an issue where the door would randomly go up and down all night or whenever it felt like. i discovered that i had a bad remote that was sending an open/close signal to the opener. i replaced this remote and that issue went away


i hate this garage door opener as much as i hated installing it myself

[Crowbob]

Being a 2016 model, check if there’s a raftsma between a ‘C’ and an ‘n’ on it, if so you’ve already beat the odds.

[cabmandone]

I had a keypad cause me all sorts of grief when the batteries got low. I'd start with batteries since the wall station works. I was thinking it needed the down force adjusted but since it works with the wall station that seems unlikely. There are two screws on most older openers that adjust up and down pressure.

I was thinking you might want to check your cables to make sure one hasn't jumped out of its track in the drum. I just had this happen on my dad's garage door and it caused a problem similar to what you're describing.

[ramonesfreak]

ok. i’ll start with batteries and checking the cables....of course the one battery i never have is the 9v so i’ll have to get one tomorrow

can’t be the travel length force because i don’t think having those adjustments wrong would cause the door to suddenly reverse....i think. in any case, i’ve already tried that

i also just checked to make sure the green and amber lights on the sensor eyes are glowing steady as they should be and they are

in all my life i’ve never known anyone to need to replace a garage door opener that is only 5 years old....but i’m thinking that a combination of extreme humidity and cold we have here in NY along with vibration could cause a logic board to go bad. they are no longer made, as arent any of the parts for this thing but i found a source for a new board for $80 if need be

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by ramonesfreak

ok. i’ll start with batteries and checking the cables....of course the one battery i never have is the 9v so i’ll have to get one tomorrow

can’t be the travel length force because i don’t think having those adjustments wrong would cause the door to suddenly reverse....i think. in any case, i’ve already tried that

i also just checked to make sure the green and amber lights on the sensor eyes are glowing steady as they should be and they are

in all my life i’ve never known anyone to need to replace a garage door opener that is only 5 years old....but i’m thinking that a combination of extreme humidity and cold we have here in NY along with vibration could cause a logic board to go bad. they are no longer made, as are any of the parts for this thing but i found a source for a new board for $80 if need be

Not travel length, there's a force limiter that reverses the door so a child or pet doesn't get trapped under it. Have you checked ebay for a NOS board?

[cabmandone]

My genie screw drives have travel switches at the front and rear of the track. I also have two screws that adjust the open and closing force to prevent accidents. I'd bet your opener has a up and down force adjustment on it.

[cabmandone]

BTW, if you contact Chamberlain, they might be able to help you. I think Chamberlain is who made Craftsman openers.

[ramonesfreak]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Not travel length, there's a force limiter that reverses the door so a child or pet doesn't get trapped under it. Have you checked ebay for a NOS board?

i believe i have travel but not force adjustment

i found a board here, so if new batteries in the keypad and remotes don’t fix, i’ll try a new board i guess

https://www.gateopenersunlimited.com/Sears-Craftsman-1D7675-Receiver-Logic-Board-Assembly-13954985-13954990_p_2805.html

[LEAKYSEALS951]

I have chamberlains on my doors. I always get a spider web stuck on the bottom of the door which trips the sensors. There's also this pesky ivy plant, which grows inside just enough to trip the sensors.

Your solution otoh, is obvious.
Just stand inside to operate the door.

Good luck.

[ramonesfreak]

Originally Posted by cabmando

My genie screw drives have travel switches at the front and rear of the track. I also have two screws that adjust the open and closing force to prevent accidents. I'd bet your opener has a up and down force adjustment on it.

confirmed in manual...no force adjustment, only travel distance adjustment. i guess they use safety sensors instead

[cabmandone]

I just read the manual. "The force is adjusted automatically when you program the travel" So nope! No manual force adjustment.

The weird thing is, all of my openers have sensors and I'm fairly sure they all have force adjustment screws on them. I have Genie screw drives in my garage and Liftmaster jackshaft openers in my barn and shop.

[LEAKYSEALS951]

Actually- a constructive idea. Have you relocated the sensor location yet? Perhaps raise it or lower it by a good degree on both sides?

Same idea for the force limiter. My rails are out of whack. Are you sure the rails aren't impinging the wheel ingress/egress limits at the low point or something to trip the force limiter?

[ramonesfreak]

Originally Posted by LEAKYSEALS951

I have chamberlains on my doors. I always get a spider web stuck on the bottom of the door which trips the sensors. There's also this pesky ivy plant, which grows inside just enough to trip the sensors.

Your solution otoh, is obvious.
Just stand inside to operate the door.

Good luck.

i also have the ivy and the webs but nothin currently blocking the sensors

i guess i could stand inside to close it and then exit the side door but i refuse to admit defeat

[cabmandone]

Have you tried cussing at it while pressing the wireless remote or using the keypad?

[ramonesfreak]

Originally Posted by LEAKYSEALS951

Actually- a constructive idea. Have you relocated the sensor location yet? Perhaps raise it or lower it by a good degree on both sides?

no. i didn’t because this issue only just started a few months ago and i have no reason to think the installation was bad since it previously worked ok.

but if the new battery doesn’t work, i’ll try it - except then my little dogs could be in danger ⚠️

[LEAKYSEALS951]

Originally Posted by ramonesfreak

i also have the ivy and the webs but nothin currently blocking the sensors

i guess i could stand inside to close it and then exit the side door but i refuse to admit defeat

No. You must do as I do and jump out the door (under the door, and over the sensor) as it closes, escaping certain doom.

[dad911]

Unhook the opener, usually a pull cord on the track, and make sure the door moves smoothly on it's own.

[ramonesfreak]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Have you tried cussing at it while pressing the wireless remote or using the keypad?

yes, didn’t you hear me from ohio screaming **** you son of a ***** garage door around midnight sunday?

[LEAKYSEALS951]

My rails at the bottom section are so trashed they flex and distort the angle of the sensors, but I am throwing out mechanical issues. The fact you can pull this off from inside seems like a potential board issue- but then again- why? Why would the board have a different set point between indoor manual and outdoor car visor button?

I dunno. I'd keep toying with mechanical issues because I'm an old fogey.

[john70t]

There is probably a load-limit-switch which reverses the motor whenever the door hits an object on the way down.
(It is very sensitive for a good reason)

So first thing to do is to disengage the drive;...

Check the door operation by hand without the motor involved.
-It should be silky-smooth from start to finish.
The door should naturally rest in the middle or near the bottom if the springs are at the correct tension left and right.
The roller pins should not slide sideways if the spring tensions are balanced, and the structure is square.

Use a scraper and flashlight and clean out the old crusty grease from everywhere.
WD40 also helps dissolve that.

Every single moving link should be lubed 110%:
That means door hinges, door rollers and slider pins, track, chain, and motor gear. Everything.

Use WD40 as a temporary measure.
I prefer synthetic sprays and light smears of synth grease for the long run on heavy load parts .
Too much grease turns into solid dust chunks eventually.

There should be nothing blocking ful smooth operation at the end.