Finishes For Butcher Block
 

I’ve decided on butcher block countertops and been testing different finishes for stain resistance.

Process:

sand maple to 120 and 220

finish with a) mineral oil and beeswax, b) Waterlox (tung oil and solvents), c) Osmo Polyx Oil (veg oils and hardwax, food safe, from Germany), d) Emmet’s Good Stuff (urethane resin gel, food safe after curing)

apply drops of 1) espresso, 2) soy sauce, 3) siracha+vinegar+salt, 4) red wine

leave on for i) 5 minutes, ii) 1 hour, iii) 12 hours, see what leaves a stain.


Results in pics below

Prepared blocks. 120 in back, 220 in front.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727374526.jpg

How drops were applied - clockwise from upper left, espresso, soy sauce, siracha.vinegar.salt, red wine

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727374664.jpg

Awesome results ... I would have used too much salt :)

Result after 5 minutes.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727374888.jpg

Result after 1 hourhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727374984.jpg

After 12 hourshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727375037.jpg

If you're asking for opinions .... my penny vote is for the lower left one ...

But you didn't :)

I stopped testing mineral oil/beeswax and Waterlox after they failed at 1 hour.

Osmo and Emmet’s went all the way to 12 hours.
Emmet’s did the best, practically unmarked although in person you can barely see a mark from the espresso.

Osmo did well, espresso and siracha left light marks, but I think (pending confirmation tonight) they will come out with a few minutes using steel wool or light sanding, then wipe on more Osmo.

CONFIRMED: less than 2 minutes with some 220 grit and the stains were gone. So was the Osmo - it doesn’t soak in much.

For a large surface, Emmet’s needs to be applied in sections. You wipe on the gel, wait a bit, then wipe off the excess, but it tacks up pretty quickly. Osmo is easier, you wipe it on, rub it in a bit, then let it cure. Both easier than brushing on poly and dealing with brush marks, dust, bubbles.

Both should be pretty tolerant of cutting and pretty repairable - they are “in the wood” more than “on the wood” finishes. I’d think Osmo, being oil and wax with hardeners, might be a bit easier to spot fix than Emmet’s which is a urethane.

Neither change the wood color much if at all.

Osmo is expensive (those Germans), Emmet’s isn’t cheap either. I’ve read that unused Emmet’s will skin over so you want to finish the can on one project.

I’m probably going with Osmo on one counter and Emmet’s on the other. And will apply three or four coats, not the two I used for the test.

Oh, notice the 220 with oil and wax did much worse than the 120 with oil and wax. After puzzling a bit, I think this is the difference in wood grain, not the grit used.

I used Osmo Poly Oil on my walnut island countertop and I am very happy with it. I used Odies Oil on a matching countertop and it is wearing off now (about 2 yrs). The Osmo has a very sealed feeling and resists everything

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727377069.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727377141.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727377213.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1727377256.jpg

I lived around the corner from Bally Block when I was in Pa, and was able to get enough seconds to do my whole kitchen. Ran the edges thru a shaper for a half round edge and stained that antique black, and did the tops with Emmet's-its what Bally recommends for their stuff. Its a project to apply but not difficult to work with. Was very happy with the results.

Yes but turmeric. (very nice btw)

For the Sriracha, did you use the new formula or the older tastier one?

Impressive testing schedule and equally impressive results from the Emmet.

It wasn’t the original sriracha, I wouldn’t waste that precious stuff on this test, it was some Trader Joe’s version. Similarly the red wine wasn’t a good vintage and wasn’t even from a bottle, I bought a can of wine for the test.

well done!